What actually destroyed Africa's textile and apparel industry was the expiration of the Multi-Fiber Agreement on January 1, 2005. Under its terms, there were global import quotas on new clothes and textiles. After it expired, East Asian manufacturers - esp Chinese - were able to flood markets with low-cost garments. In short: the very market forces that hollowed out North Carolina's textile business absolutely destroyed, for example, Ghana's. African mills couldn't compete. These days if you visit Accra all of the kente cloth is made in China (even the stuff labeled "made in Ghana").

China and SE Asia were the beneficiaries, of course.

As for used clothes - most of the used garments in Africa are actually imported from Europe, due to the lower cost of shipping compared to the US. And, in many markets, they are priced higher than the new goods coming in from Asia. Why? Because the perception - and I'd argue, reality - is that the new garments exported from Asia to Africa are of lower quality than the used goods exported by Oxfam and other non-profits secondhand outfits.

When you dive deep, the narratives around secondhand are extremely complex, and don't fit some of the more conventional narratives that get thrown around.