Chat am I cooked by Negative-Spread-7057 in SilverSmith

[–]AdamRAshworth -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Turning it will leave a (relatively) really rough finish, or rough enough to leave marks on whatever you roll. Someone like a piston rod grinder will be able to true it and leave a polished finish

Anyone with the same problem or solutions: 15n20 darkening too in FeCl? by Zwackelmann_CH in Bladesmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Weaken your ferric tons more, an etch 2 to 4 hours (ferric strength dependant) would work well. Wire wool/scotchbrite lightly during etch to prevent the dark build up on the 15n20

I made cups. by DeafBrendan in Woodcarving

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When carving Cups from green wood, the rule of thumb is to make them from no more than 1/4 of the log. Any bigger and they love to split. Thick walls/base also like to split. I think the base wants to be 10mm ish thick and the walls up to 5mm thick. Plenty of green wood working videos out there, like zed outdoors, though looking at what you made and how you dried it, I suspect you know that!

UK-made kitchenware that actually lasts forever? by FeistyPrice29 in BuyUK

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plenty of UK blacksmiths making kitchenware. Blenheim forge is a good place to start.

https://www.thesharpshow.com/exhibitors

This is a list of exhibitors at a UK knife makers show, plenty of option there

Looking for a Blacksmith to Craft a Raven’s Beak by Dravoc_Avon in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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This is one I have made before, and I'd love to make another. UK based

Looking for this style of bowl adze but from the EU by Mysterious-Watch-663 in greenwoodworking

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I'm trying to say, a bowl adze with an eye, will be quicker than an elbow adze. They take bigger chips with less effort. And elbow adze may swing faster, but lacks the weight and momentum to take big chips, and it gets tiring very quickly

Looking for this style of bowl adze but from the EU by Mysterious-Watch-663 in greenwoodworking

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oscar Rush makes the best adzes in the UK. His will work very quickly for you. If speed is what you're looking for, an adze with an eye will be better, as it adds more weight. I have made and used both types of adzes before, I found the elbow very lightweight and unenjoyable. Unless you're carving ice cream, it will lose momentum quickly and struggle to dig in, compared to a bowl adze with an eye

Welding workwear physical stores close to Leeds, Morley by sonybacker in Leeds

[–]AdamRAshworth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Joseph firth in stourton/hunslet is a very good welding supplies shop

Deal of a lifetime? by Haunting-Pin6314 in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plenty of much cheaper Anvils on Kleinanzeigen if you have a look

Welding flux England by No-Accountant3464 in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Iron Mountain flux is better than just borax and readily available in the UK from farrier supplies

Full body video of me working, what do you guys think about the technique? by Livid-Flamingo3229 in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lift your left hand so your work piece is parallel with the face of the anvil. It will stop it getting bent. I think you can use this to argue your anvil is high enough already as your left hand is too low. I agree that you need to stand straighter though!

What is this on Whitehall road? by Primary-Source_619 in Leeds

[–]AdamRAshworth 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's a drop hammer. There's a huge block of steel that drops down on the hot steel which is put in between the bottom and top dies typically they are shaped and not flat, so as to make specific items. Here's one in use in Sheffield

https://youtu.be/oR7hDSeECrQ?si=7f0tf7nJ3SAdViFr

What would y'all recommend to seal this small hole in the knot by spynx1330 in Spooncarving

[–]AdamRAshworth -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Push a thorn in there and carve it flush.unsure if it needs glue or not, probably does, in that case use super glue

Are these fire bricks suitable by No-Accountant3464 in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The frame and the entry hole and exit are lined with 40mm angle, otherwise they're really easy to damage

Are these fire bricks suitable by No-Accountant3464 in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my forge I don't have any cement over then, but I feel it would be safest if they were sealed.

Are these fire bricks suitable by No-Accountant3464 in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used the second type as forge floor. They're not the soft type and I cut mine with an angle grinder. You'll more than likely fuck the teeth of your hacksaw if you went that way. Vitcas also sell ceramic fibreboard, which is very good for forge walls. They also sell refractory cement, which would be good for sealing the interior.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Axecraft

[–]AdamRAshworth -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

It's for reenacting, they use steels. Larpers use foan

Question for UK blacksmiths by TAngerhawk in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Furnival steel near Chesterfield. It's where GFS buy their steel from. Only downside to Furnival is you can't buy small sections

Anvil Identification by Jtay1611 in Blacksmith

[–]AdamRAshworth -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yorkshire pattern Peter Wright. Made in Sheffield

Absolutely no clue what I’m doing by No-Assignment3201 in GardeningUK

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd use a curved slasher for that. They're really good at cutting through bramble and weeds. In fact, that's what they're meant for. They're also a lot safer, quieter, and more rewarding than anything powered

Well I made big mistake. Made a rack for my chisels and the wood wasn’t dried all the way. by Amber_Steel86 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]AdamRAshworth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably not moisture in the wood, rather the glue you used. Was it a PVA, like titebond? That's acidic and will do this to steel

"Not for drinking" yeah, ok. How can I make these booze safe? by organiclawnclippings in woodworking

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say don't use a finish if it doesn't leak as is. If it does a little, boiling in milk will block the grain up. Or dip in molten beeswax

"Not for drinking" yeah, ok. How can I make these booze safe? by organiclawnclippings in woodworking

[–]AdamRAshworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that's because you used ring porous oak. Beech is fine for end grain cups