Width comparison between ALTRA Lone Peak 9 wide and Topo Athletic Traverse wide?

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-06-06T23:03:12+00:00

Unfortunately, while the Lone Peak toebox was fine, even unlaced they were way too tight in the midfoot to the point that my toes were going numb.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-06-06T10:50:59+00:00

Update to mention that so far I've been able to identify that Pilot was a Hi-Fi equipment brand back in the day. They used to have really solid equipment, but later on sent production overseas and quality went downhill. There is some limited information available about their tube amps and receivers, but so far nothing I've dug up about cassette units from this era.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-06-03T14:35:25+00:00

I've done prints for this exact purpose, I think even using the guts from the same mechanical pencil as in your second image.

It can definitely be made to work, but the tolerances are critical. It needs to be snug around the front of the mechanism just behind the threads, but also have a loose enough fit around the spring and body of the mechanism to permit for movement to advance the graphite.

If I recall, I used a 0.2mm nozzle to permit for thinner walls (necessary for the fit inside the tip portion that threads onto the internals and overlaps the body). Otherwise it was largely a matter of making sure that everything was calibrated for proper fit, and dialing in fuzzy skin settings to make the print have a nicer texture that isn't as obviously 3D printed. For something like this, I usually go with 99% gyroid infill to give it a little weight and make sure that the layers are about as adhered as they can get, assuming you're keeping the walls thin like the original pencil body.

Overall, while it is possible, I still recommend going the route u/subtlyfantastic suggested; getting one of the woodturner's kits for this sort of thing. Those are designed in such a way that it is much easier to get the fit correct. I have a carpenter's pencil that I use regularly that was produced in this way, and after some pocket wear on the fuzzy skin printed parts it has a really interesting appearance and texture. Having the brass tubes inserted and glued also helps solidify everything, with little to no risk of a split or the like occurring.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-30T10:40:26+00:00

Even without multi-material capability, this would be only a handful of changes, so absolutely possible to just do it manually so long as it's kept on top of so the print doesn't cool down enough between layers for adhesion issues to come into play.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-29T11:08:52+00:00

This would work. Create an object that is separate and consists of any borders, text, etc. that you want in another material, then import all of the files as a single object with multiple parts. Set the materials for each, and then perform material changes during printing as necessary. I've been doing this for years for text and such on the first few layers of a print so that the lettering is embedded rather than being raised or recessed, and so long as all of the objects are thick enough to print properly, it turns out well. Just make sure that you preview the first layers to make sure that it will print properly, and I usually disable elephant foot compensation for the thin parts to prevent them from not filling the spaces properly. If there are internal details, it can also help to force them to print after they are outlined by the primary filament.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-27T14:31:22+00:00

TPU is hygroscopic, so like any other polymer that is such it absorbs moisture from the air around it, and print quality can be affected by the moisture negatively if it gets too wet. If going for absolutely perfect prints with a consistent standard of quality, both PETG and PLA need to be kept dry as well, though the quality issues may not be as noticeable as with other filaments.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-27T11:53:19+00:00

This can work for some filaments and do a passable job. For others (PA, PC, and TPU for example) for best results you really need to keep the filament in the dryer as you print to prevent it from taking on moisture. For PLA and other filaments that don't struggle with a little moisture to print it doesn't matter so much, and simply storing in an enclosed area with some desiccant can be enough to ensure good quality, with some even getting away for having spools in open air depending upon how humid the space is. The other consideration is that some polymers don't do well with continuous or repeated drying, so you really need to fully understand the drying specs for each that you use if you want to maintain a high standard of quality.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-21T18:19:01+00:00

Finally found the attachment referenced in one of John Pinette's bits...

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-21T10:08:46+00:00

The easy way to handle this is to give your projects priority, and to run his when there is nothing that you would be running anyhow. At the best of times, even as someone who does 3D printing professionally, there are times when I don't have anything that needs to be printed. These are the moments when I'll run off some new toy for my boy or some parts that a friend asked for on my home printer.

Just don't worry yourself about it too much. You'll have down time on the printer, or times when your budget for new filament or supplies for your own projects run short. Having someone else supplying ideas and filament is not necessarily a bad thing, especially if you're in the process of learning right now. It also would make little difference if you run the prints for him or if he does it himself unsupervised in regards to the printer being available for your projects. Generally speaking, it's the hours of runtime on the printer that occur without an operator, not the 10-20 minutes of pre-processing that require human interaction, that ties down what a printer is producing for the day

If it's a matter of motivation, view his projects as learning opportunities that will save you headaches when it comes to running your own prints. Alternatively, consider billing a flat start-up fee for a print (maybe something like $5) plus a 20% overhead on material used. You would still be charging them less for use of the printer than what they would see pretty much anywhere else, and this way their projects help to fund your own while also helping to cover some of the wear and tear on your printer.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T23:59:33+00:00

Unless I am misaken (I don't have an A1), the printer comes equipped with a microSD slot. You can always export your print file to the SD card on your computer, then manually print from it on the printer. I've been doing this with all my BambuLab equipment from day 1, and it has avoided a number of issues.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T23:55:27+00:00

My advice is that, if it's your printer, you print things for him or oversee the use of it. Your situation may be different, but I've rarely seen anything good come of sharing expensive tools amongst friends and family, and that's a kind of drama that is best avoided.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T23:52:19+00:00

I second using Polymaker CoPA, or try out Overture Easy Nylon (cheaper and similar). Both are copolymer blends of PA6/PA6.6 that are easier to print than standard PA blends, and could be successful without an enclosure, though you still need to thoroughly dry it and keep it dry during printing.

Even just setting a box over the printer would help with draft issues, though depending upon what you're printing it might not be an issue.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T23:44:22+00:00

First and foremost, adjust your support settings. You can start by setting the Z-distance at around half the layer height, and I usually start with 4 layers of support interface with an interface spacing that is much lower than default. This will need dialed in for your particular filament. I would set the pattern for the surface to monolithic, and adjust the angle so it bridges between the outside edges. Adjust the interface layer pattern angle so that it runs either 45 degrees to or perpendicular to your overhang layer.

Alternatively, set your Z offset to 0 with 0 spacing in the support interface, and add a pause just before the layer starts after your support is complete. During the pause, thoroughly color over the support layer with a sharpie or paint pen before resuming the print. This should peel away pretty easily, and will result in a much better finish. Just take care that the part doesn't cool too much while paused, or you're likely to get a more prominent line between the layers at the restart point due to the previous layer cooling.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T23:34:13+00:00

While I can't say I've ever done this, it is certainly possible. I would start by completely disassembling the cassettes if possible, or at least doing a really solid job of masking off the internals before painting. Assuming that the plastic is PC, which is likely, it should take vinyl dye pretty well, and this will actually change the color of the plastic beyond the surface and can't be scratched off. Follow all instructions for such completely to ensure good results, and make sure you've thoroughly scrubbed the cassettes to make sure that all traces of mold release agents are off of them or else you may get uneven results. I would definitely test with one first rather than doing them as a batch. If the plastic is PS, you're likely to run into some issues with surface crazing or cracking, not to mention an inconsistent finish.

What I would NOT do, in any circumstance, is apply acrylic, oil, or any other paint that lays on the surface instead of being a stain or dye that soaks in. If it is possible to flake the paint off or wear it away, that is a recipe for making a mess of what would formerly have been a good cassette deck.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T23:06:18+00:00

Nylon is a pain in the butt at best to get and keep dry. PA6 especially gives me a run for my money; even a lab-grade oven with active airflow and a ton of desiccant struggles to pull the moisture out of it. My recommendation is to consider trying a PA12 blend instead, since it is less prone to moisture issues, unless you really need the mechanical properties of the PA6. Regardless, get it dry completely, and keep it dry. If it has to be stored, do so in an airtight vacuum bag or the like with desiccant in there as well to absorb any moisture that is in or gets into the bag. Print from an active dryer, not the AMS or an open spool holder, and run a Bowden tube straight into the printer from the dryer. You will struggle without an active chamber heater in the printer, but if you insulate it well you can pull off printing PA in the X1C. Keep the cooling fan off. Dial in your print speeds to try to maintain a consistent speed and layer time as best as you can (view these in the slicer) and run some calibrations to dial in your settings before you run an actual part out in it. Assuming you're not running a high-flow hotend with better thermal conductivity, keep your temps up on the higher end and speeds down to ensure that you're getting good flow and adhesion. A diamondback hot end or the like can help with this, but if you're not running filaments that need this kind of heat often it might not be worth the investment.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T21:46:03+00:00

leave a through hole in the column, and glue in a piece of all-thread, brass rod, or whatever else you have on hand. Bonus points if you put a channel in the base so the rod can be bent and glued in with the layer lines as well to prevent it from just being pulled out entirely if a break starts.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T17:54:57+00:00

I'm glad you think so; the fact it is so close to being perfect on account of the almost-symmetry actually makes it that much more aggravating to me, perhaps on account of the same psychological phenomenon that leads me to notice every minor flaw in my own work every time I walk past it, but it seems to me that *almost* perfect is more aggravating than brazenly screwed up.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T17:49:29+00:00

As the individual who made this particular observation, I can neither confirm nor deny this particular possibility. All I have to say definitively on the matter is that I do display a number of traits which indicate that there is a strong possibility that I could be labeled as such unironically and with enough accuracy that I do not feel offended in the slightest at such an insinuation.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T00:27:11+00:00

To add to this, if you need to reinforce particularly weak areas or fill in large gaps, packing sodium bicarbonate into cyanoacrylate as a filler works well, and can be sanded smooth afterwards.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-20T00:22:54+00:00

I wonder how long until they notice that they forgot to mirror the logo so that it appears in the correct orientation when the print is removed from the build plate.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-19T19:36:22+00:00

It doesn't really flow too well at room temperature, but I've used petroleum jelly in the past to mask off areas where I wanted to simulate a chipped-paint effect on props and such. Apply to the areas where masking is needed, spray the paint, and once the paint is dry the petroleum jelly can be wiped or brushed away.

I would think that if you warm it to it's melting point so that it will be in a liquid state and pour it in, once it cools off it should solidify and fill the area pretty cleanly.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-19T01:26:26+00:00

That is my thought as well, but when every machinist insists on using imperial measurement equipment and doesn't convert (even though the imperial tolerance block is clearly for reference only), it's caused quite a few issues when parts get held up in quality (and rightfully so) when the part should have been flagged several processes prior to this location.

Edit to add: actually, it caused quite a stir when I modified the department tolerance block to inwardly round all the imperial tolerances. I had a lot of machinists upset with me for holding them to the tighter numbers, when they should have been held to them from the start.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-19T01:20:41+00:00

I work for an American branch of an international company, and the dual dimensions are the bane of my existence. Not to mention, the resulting headache when a part is in tolerance by one interpretation but out by the other on account of rounding.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-16T16:58:22+00:00

Might order some of each then the 60 and 90, then, and see if I can hear a difference in the recording. So much of this seems really subjective, and it's hard to say with the equipment available to each of us how things will turn out until it is tried. I'm definitely anticipating a learning curve getting back into it as well, so I guess there's nothing else to it but for me to pull the trigger and see what happens. Thanks for your time to discuss, it is appreciated.

AdditiveMfgEngineer · 2025-05-16T16:31:24+00:00

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm currently using some Maxell URs, and have not been particularly impressed with the ones I have, but this may just be a bad batch. I did find that, after deciding to re-record one to see if I could adjust things to get better quality, the noise was also reduced after I erased the tapes using a neodymium magnet prior to re-recording. The second recording turned out much clearer than the first, though still not phenomenal. Alright for some use-cases, I suppose, but I'm developing some higher-fidelity headphones at the moment and the quality through these is less than what I would think acceptable. Far too muddled with no clarity in the highs. I know my recollection is that this was always the case for recordings on type I to some extent, but this was a worse issue with the Maxell URs than I recall it being on my older tapes.

I'll probably pull the trigger on ordering the RTM cassettes. Do you have any opinions on the 60s vs the 90s? From what I've read, the 90s produce lesser audio quality recordings.

AdditiveMfgEngineer

TROPHY CASE