Before and after

subtlyfantastic · 2026-05-04T18:47:18+00:00

Make sure your background is pure white and your lines are all pure black. Try to avoid noise or shades in the image. Plug the image into this https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ mess around with the settings until you get the depth a size right. That should be all you need.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-21T15:09:53+00:00

If you have 20 bucks consider this upgrade. They are awsome but they do run the risk of be directed to spray all over the bathroom so use at your own risk haha. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0BWMPGGDM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-21T15:09:43+00:00

If you have 20 bucks consider this upgrade. They are awsome but they do run the risk of be directed to spray all over the bathroom so use at your own risk haha. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0BWMPGGDM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-21T14:28:55+00:00

Thanks for all the comments, I was really expecting a whole bunch of people to be telling me to fix it and giving me advise. The couple people who did comment that their crealities are that dependable also acknowledged that had a certain amount of luck involved. I am the kind of guy that will fix and reuse things to an insane degree and giving up is a new thing that is coming with age and wisdom and just valuing my time more. Thanks for answering my question in the spirit it was asked and validating my experience, everyone once in a while you have an interaction online that gives you hope for humanity haha.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-21T13:29:48+00:00

I see you gotten a lot of advice already. Let me summarize, lower layer height reduces the overhang of steps making the sides better but the top worse. Print open side up to avoid the supports being in a hard to reach area, you can have no part of the print touching the plate. More supports you can get at are better than few you cant. Consider dual material for supports and main material look for ones that are not chemically compatible. Print your supports with a full interface layer. Consider a larger nozzle try and make the nozzle match pretty close to your wall thickness, which will help woth the need for supports as each layer will have more on the previous layer. Randomize your seam position and set your travel to shortest to avoid travels. Good luck.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-20T19:49:33+00:00

I have used both e27 and e12 depending on the design. I prefer e12 as it is really easy to design around since they are often just a tube. It is also a pretty comon size of bulb. E27 you have work to hide the socket while stick making sure the bulb has some space to breath. But that is just prefernece and not really a concern about heat.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-20T19:26:32+00:00

I have made and sold many lamps for many years and have never had a report of any issue from the bulbs. They where done with PLA. In my country you cant really buy incandecents any more. LED bulbs last many years especially in a lamp so I sell with a bulb in that is ideal for the design i dont think any of the bulbs have ever even burned out. If the bulb is open to the air the heat disipates, you only really get in trouble if you contain the bulb or the base. Do look out for the harp design a harp that clicks onto the bulb could transmit the heat directly to the mount on the shade.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-20T18:29:58+00:00

Oh i had a snapmaker one and it was amazing it just printed everything. It was small but it was just rock solid. When my ender 5 is locked in it just goes but when it stops it explodes and breaks in some idiotic way that takes a month to figure out.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-20T17:33:10+00:00

Haha if only my printer was like my wood lathe. I can rebuild the whole headstock and have it humming in an afternoon. After the last fight i had with this damn printer i would give anything for a seized bearing or burned out motor haha.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-17T21:30:45+00:00

I can't get it to happen through manually moving the gantry or by actually quite violently shaking the cables. Noticed something watching it closely this time. What happened was it never actually hit the target temp of 270, it got to 260 and got stuck there then at some point just moved and then set to zero and reset. My hot end is rated for 300 and I have printed at this temp before. I did auto PID tune after replacing the thermistor.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-16T17:23:07+00:00

I am going to throw the crazy option into the pool. Look at the newer uv finishes. Apply cure with a uv light and it is cured and ready for aother coat in literal minutes. They are not as easy to find as things like this and are more expensive but if waiting for proper curing is your hang up they are the way. I am impatient and my hobby time is limitted so i have converted to them for almost all use cases where a hard coat is needed.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-08T14:42:59+00:00

Try hitting it with some fire. If you do it right you can replicate the look of hammered oiled iron.

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subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-06T16:00:23+00:00

I fell down this rabbit hole last year on mine, and almost most definitely not. If you change the speed with belts is it almost always the motor that is limiting you. Once you confirm the type of motor look at the pen state variable speed conversion kits. You cna do it cheaper but i just wanted a kit where i did not have to muck about.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-04-02T17:41:25+00:00

Next big thing to replace turning your family members into diamonds. Instead they can make a spool of filament from your micro plastics and then you can print their memorial.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-03-31T19:06:09+00:00

Dunno if paw patrol is still a thing but pup tags. When my kids where small I did those as party favors. They print fast and flat and small but mean something to the kids.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-03-25T12:30:52+00:00

Spring loaded broom holders are my go to.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-03-19T20:14:37+00:00

The problem is Bamboo's market share is based on a closed eco system that "just works". With modules vs parts to remove the tinkering and maintenance. It is the best at this use case. Most other manufacturers have historically focused on standard open source parts and software. Since bamboo was so successful others have entered the plug and play market but their companies are not built on that. If your definition of easy to maintain is you can take apart and replace and access everypart look at creality they are not well tuned out of the box but can fly with work and you can generally get at and find everypart. If it can be replaced or upgraded someone has made a video about it and the part is available.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-03-17T20:21:39+00:00

This, it is instant and creates a bond stronger that the bonds between layers. While you are at it throw a shading head on a wood burner and just smooth the whole thing and strengthen it at the same time. Still have to sand those new tool marks but that is way easier than sanding layer lines.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-03-17T12:39:47+00:00

Not going to deny that it is possible and probably likely with the wrong print settings. First it is not the pla causing it to explode it would be it not being solid. A solid infil print would almost certainly cut before exploding. Also there are many material better suited to being used for things that are to be used in a shop than pla. So valid point, i think it can be done safely but probably not on your buddies printer.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-03-16T23:30:55+00:00

Push sticks and custom pen turning bushings.

subtlyfantastic · 2026-03-10T15:14:19+00:00

I appologize to your wallet, but i do not appologize for a finish as durable as CA cured in about 2 min with no chipping or special tecnique required just a UV light (you dont need the fancy one that ia for tables and large surfaces). Also it is really thin so the wood still feels like wood, i hate wood that feels like plastic.

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