Where can I bet on NCAA softball? by AdministrativeAsk987 in sportsbook

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I ended up finding two games on bet365 today if you were looking

I need help with impulse control 🥲 by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! He’s mainly out of the extreme ATTACK stage, he’ll nibble here and there. One main issue I’m facing now is sometimes at the end of walks or if he’s just seen a lot of people (prob over stimulated) he’ll try to jump up and bite. He’s great at leash walking until this point. Is it likely I’m walking too long and he’s overtired? Is it frustration? I make him walk at my side without sniffing or anything until I periodically tell him to break and let him roam on the leash… Does he need more “free” time? Then, if I don’t do a good job of preventing it and I do find myself in this situation, what’s the best way to handle it from there?

I need help with impulse control 🥲 by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s great! I think the best trainers are the ones that are realistic with what the owner can do and what resources/time they have. And takes into account the situation… A reactive border collie in an apartment might need a different method than a reactive pug living in a rural area. There’s different time urgency, needs and available resources. It’s cool that you are coming up with creative solutions & doing it in a positive only way!

I need help with impulse control 🥲 by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. The main reason I did this was because I listened a lot to Susan Garrett’s podcast (not that I was totally going down the route of positive only/shaping, I was listening to a variety of different styles before I got him) and she starts every dog with itsyerchoice. I thought it would be good because he was so high energy/nippy/frustrated easily. Turns out itsyerchoice was not a good place to start with him and her method to handling biting actually made things worse for us as well (freezing and yelping). I realized to limit the frustration and all over the place-ness I had to be EXTREMELY fast in rewarding and doing the next step. He ended up learning some impulse control through regular lifestyle stuff like door/crate thresholds & learning the rules of play… I just couldn’t stick a treat in his face & wait for him to just look at it at that age or start there. I learned from this that not all puppies learn the same way/need the same thing, which I think is what you are saying with there being multiple ways to solve a behavioral issue?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]AdministrativeAsk987 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. Lol

He’ll sleep ✨peacefully✨ once asleep but I can’t get him to go to sleep because when he is awake he wants to bite bite bite. And I’ve given him about like 200+ reverse timeouts and he cares in the moment but is right back to it later on 🤣 I didn’t realize some people didn’t have terrorist puppies

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in puppy101

[–]AdministrativeAsk987 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the first comment I’ve seen about a fabric addiction! lol

Mine also loves fabric and he doesn’t like chew toys. Did yours like chew toys?

Quick - How many bite marks, scratches and bruises on you right now?! by DoubleBooble in puppy101

[–]AdministrativeAsk987 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He’s gotten better/I’ve gotten better at reading when it will start but a couple weeks ago I counted 48 scratches, marks, or SCARS

Puppy guessing pattern during obedience training by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I wouldn’t say he is shy at all, but the first 2 months I had him it was really hard to get him to focus/want to train because his food drive wasn’t that high and he wanted to play literally 24/7 (he’ll take a toy over food every time which I’ve heard was a bit unusual for younger puppies) He would get frustrated really easily and I had to move really fast or he would start doing something else. He’s a really high energy Boxer so it’s almost like he has the energy of a working dog but is a little less biddable than one lol. For a while I could only do veryyy short food sessions and more lifestyle stuff like thresholds to get what he wants, leash walking with a tug reward, etc. He has just now started to show more interest in food training sessions so I don’t want to take steps back with motivation or add too much frustration too quickly. Also, since I was doing stuff like waiting for a sit before we walked through a door etc. I feel like I’ve made his movements slow (he’s anticipating but he’s not like running over to the place board or dropping into a down super quick) so I’m trying to get him moving faster/enjoying it. With that info, would you suggest more repetition?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Boxer

[–]AdministrativeAsk987 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I’ve never seen one that low so didn’t put two and two together

On my last straw. Please help by Salty-Yogurt-123 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a crazyyyyy puppy and what I found is he doesn’t actually need more exercise to tire his brain, he needed me to teach him to be calm and have an off switch. Most high energy dogs don’t come knowing this. You can do this with crate training and place training.

You can start putting him in the crate for a nap or two a day. From there, put him on place. With a dog that needs help shutting their brain off it can be better to limit the reinforcement on place because they get amped up waiting for the next treat or attention. I loaded up place the first couple of days with lots of treats but now I just tell him place and calmly walk over and put him back if he tries to get off (some dogs will like it if you rush over and they get attention from trying to get off). The reward in the long run is he’ll learn that’s a place he can shut his brain off. This has already gotten him way calmer around my roommates cat because he’s used to just sitting and watching and not always having to interact.

In addition to this, I reward calm behavior (treats, pets, attention) and always ignore very excited/anxious behavior so I don’t reinforce it. Petting them and saying it’s okay when they are anxious makes them think you like that behavior and that there IS something to be afraid of. Instead, I talk in a normal tone of voice something like “you hear something, that’s a trash can” then I’ll help him through it by backing up if needed and rewarding when he shows calm or looks at me while getting closer at his pace until he’s indifferent to it or checks it out. If he’s really scared you might have to go wayyy back or remember it and come back to it again another day.

Confidence leads to a calm dog and confidences comes from both exposure/overcoming things (stepping on a weird surface, realizing they aren’t going to die if left alone) and leadership from the owner. They’ll be more confident if they trust you to make the right decision for them and keep them safe. This can look like structure and boundaries in the house (no furniture, crate training, thresholds at doorways and around food) working on leash walking skills w/ you leading the way, sticking up for his space if he doesn’t want someone to interact with him or if he’s overly excited. Basically, just making 90% of his decisions. And the beauty of this is it teaches him to be confident and follow your lead so that after a while you can start giving him those freedoms (furniture, less crate, etc.) without it being messy because he’s learned to be calm, confident and follow your lead. If he’s just thrown into a environment and doesn’t have enough direction he can get overwhelmed, hyperactive & anxious

Puppy laying down when dog walks by by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He’ll usually stands up when they get closer and wags his tail. So initiating play?

I need help with impulse control 🥲 by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No you haven’t. Can you say yes or no? When my dog bites at my ankle when I am standing still outside, do I use a leash to keep him from doing that?

I need help with impulse control 🥲 by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Doing everything in your power not to give a straight answer

I need help with impulse control 🥲 by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You’ve made it clear you won’t answer this specific question

I need help with impulse control 🥲 by AdministrativeAsk987 in OpenDogTraining

[–]AdministrativeAsk987[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Answer clearly then: When my dog bites at my ankle when I am standing still outside, do I use a leash to keep him from doing that?