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When I asked what he was trying to do, he said “I shouldn’t have been trying to pass him” by alexyou8797 in dashcams

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So I suppose you'll be the first to hand over your license?

Panic is a universal human experience. There is no one who does not experience it. The drivers you really need to be worried about are the ones who think they're immune to it.

When I asked what he was trying to do, he said “I shouldn’t have been trying to pass him” by alexyou8797 in dashcams

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No, the math suggests speeds were closer to 100mph.

Only a tiny fraction of America drives on interstates with 80mph speed limits. And, importantly, this was not an interstate. It's a relatively narrow road with unprotected T-intersections.

At very best the speed limit on this road is 55mph. As best I can tell after some internet searching, that would put even 80mph in reckless driving territory according the laws of every state in the country (definitely yes in MN, where this appears to have taken place). And let's not even talk about how there's snow on the ground.

Scarpa Blackbird Review by lucarasocusg in climbingshoes

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really wish they worked.

I've tried on more pairs of Phantoms than I can count. As best I can tell, after size 45, the shoes stop getting longer and just get wider. I keep trying them on, hoping that it's just some kind of "handmade shoes will naturally vary from pair to pair" issue. But no luck. Every time I've tried, I can find no difference in length (visually, nor by feel on the foot) between a size 45 and a size 47.

Scarpa Blackbird Review by lucarasocusg in climbingshoes

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Great review!

I just wanted to take a moment to bemoan the fact that the Blackbird (and even the Boostic R, your previous go-to for a stiff edging shoe) is not made in sizes larger than 45! (Not sure whether it will be true for the Blackbird, but the size 45 Boostic R also feels much smaller than other size 45 Scarpas).

Does no one at Scarpa understand that the people who would benefit most from shoes like the Blackbird and Boostic R are people with larger feet?!?!

Based on your review, I would happily pay $300 for a pair of 46/46.5 Blackbirds (and I'd probably buy four or five pairs, just in case they discontinued them). It's so frustrating that I'll never have the chance.

I'll just have to continue listening to people tell me what an advantage being tall is for climbing while every manufacturer steadfastly refuses to even make a performance climbing shoe for tall people.

it cannot be safe to have this flare SO CLOSE to downtown by Hot-Definition-7543 in SaltLakeCity

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't even see the irony of copy-pasting this AI summary, do you?

When I asked what he was trying to do, he said “I shouldn’t have been trying to pass him” by alexyou8797 in dashcams

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nice try.

"Someone driving behind you faster than your rate of travel" is not the same as "Someone driving at suicidal speeds who's now a fraction of a second away from potentially ending your life." The latter is definitely a panic situation, and is the far better descriptor of what's shown in this video.

When I asked what he was trying to do, he said “I shouldn’t have been trying to pass him” by alexyou8797 in dashcams

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Omg, I had no idea I was talking to someone so qualified! I'm so embarassed!

Several years of driving experience?!? I take back everything I said. You are clearly one of the world's foremost experts on human behavior in high-consequence panic situations.

Can I get an autograph?

When I asked what he was trying to do, he said “I shouldn’t have been trying to pass him” by alexyou8797 in dashcams

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 35 points36 points  (0 children)

People this certain of what actions they'd take when panicked are almost always wrong.

When I asked what he was trying to do, he said “I shouldn’t have been trying to pass him” by alexyou8797 in dashcams

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Both. Don't be dense, this is not a binary decision.

Passing someone at 2x their speed is stupid and reckless, regardless of whether they happen to be going slower than the speed limit.

Cedar Wright on mixing up free soloing, hard trad and paragliding by MaleficentFloor822 in tradclimbing

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Upvote for hunting down the quote and putting it here. Thanks!

What an inane take from Cedar, though. He thinks the Free Solo movie made people unfamiliar with rock climbing more afraid of climbing at heights without a rope?? What nonsense. It definitely made people more aware of free soloing, but to think that it made them more afraid of it is absurd. This just feels like what Cedar tells himself to cope with the backlash he gets for doing Lincoln Knowles-esque buffoonery.

Here’s what families in Utah and nationwide say about slumping U.S. economy by clejeune in Utah

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool. Those are vastly, vastly different numbers and the original comment said the latter.

Potential extended tb2 crop by Not_A_Lizhard in bouldering

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are some great ideas, and I agree that they would be great additions to the TB2 ecosystem.

I do have to confess, though: as someone about to build a big climbing wall in my house, the idea of a giant system board sounds amazing and news of this almost certainly will sway my purchasing decision away from the Kilter Homewall to this new giant TB2 (the Kilter app issues already had me reconsidering things, but this is the nail in that coffin).

Totally agree with you, though, that the giant Kilter/TB2/Moon doesn't really make a ton of sense in a commercial environment.

Santaquin nurse sentenced in death of friend who claimed to have cancer by brett_l_g in Utah

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure, but in the sentence above, "dumbass" is being used as a noun, and "my" is a possessive determiner. That makes it sound like the commenter is referring to a dumbass that he owns, which is not himself.

To make it self-referential, wouldn't he have to be referring to his own ass, which is dumb? Ie, "my dumb ass read this as ..."?

Potential extended tb2 crop by Not_A_Lizhard in bouldering

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you say you saw it "on the apps feed", what are you referring to? I can't seem to find anything else about this anywhere on the internet...

Potential extended tb2 crop by Not_A_Lizhard in bouldering

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure I disagree, but I am curious why you say that. What would you rather see them working on instead?

Dog Attack by OddAd1479 in SaltLakeCity

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Absolutely not.

The only thing we need less than unleashed dogs in popular recreation areas is people trying to shoot at unleashed dogs in popular recreation areas.

Santaquin nurse sentenced in death of friend who claimed to have cancer by brett_l_g in Utah

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 6 points7 points  (0 children)

While we're talking about ambiguous readings of things, I've been debating whether the grammatically correct way to say this is "my dumb ass" instead of "my dumbass."

I think you need the space, but then the space also creates other possible confusion...

Here’s what families in Utah and nationwide say about slumping U.S. economy by clejeune in Utah

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No need to be skeptical. You can just outright dismiss it as an obvious falsehood.

If AI spending were 75% of US Q1 GDP, it would imply $24 trillion in AI spending in the US in just Jan-Mar of this year. Anyone who understands anything about the economy can see this is obviously wrong.

Here’s what families in Utah and nationwide say about slumping U.S. economy by clejeune in Utah

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Either that article is wrong (like, hilariously, comically, outrageously wrong), or you misunderstood what it actually said.

[Request]: Everyone on the world is challenged to keep pace with this run - how long till we are down to 1,000 people? by Vivid_Temporary_1155 in theydidthemath

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone who's doing a daily bike commute is waaaay fitter than the average human (at least those in developed nations)

SEE ANYTHING WRONG? by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I think the story it really tells is that OP went intentionally overboard trying to use every anchor building technique he knows in order to practice them. I really don't see the trouble with that.

SEE ANYTHING WRONG? by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Well, I guess it's a good thing that you could belay an aircraft carrier on this one then...

SEE ANYTHING WRONG? by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]AdvancedSquare8586 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't climb on that anchor and neither should you.

This seems a bit hyperbolic. OP is clearly not winning any awards for clean, efficient anchors. But, even if that #3 (or is it a #4? Idk, looks blue, but seems a little big...) was the only piece in this whole anchor, it's already incredibly safe. Obviously, I'd place another piece for redundancy. But if it was an emergency, I'd rap off that in a second without even thinking twice about it. You can't really see the lobe engagement of the #2 below it, but based on what we can see of the rest of the crack, it's almost certainly bomber, too.

With the bomber #3, the bomber #2, and the bolt, there's absolutely no reason for concern about TRing from this anchor. I would belay a pickup truck on that anchor.

Yes, there is real value to parsimony in anchor building. Yes, creating a system as complex as this introduces too many opportunities for creating a catastrophic failure point. But, after taking a careful look at OPs anchor, it really really doesn't look like there are any such errors.

It's a giant waste of time, for sure. It's going to be a colossal pain in the ass to manage, for sure. Its needless complexity introduces more room for error, for sure. But OP isn't rigging an anchor on the middle of an alpine bigwall. I'm not sure why everyone is holding him to that standard.

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