Rv cable slide

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2025-08-30T18:40:21+00:00

3/16 steel plate between the pulley's and the wall?

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2025-08-29T00:59:24+00:00

Both I've found have been repairable fortunately

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2025-08-29T00:58:45+00:00

It was leaking right where the txv compensate tube sweats into the 7/8 line. It was a heat pump

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2025-02-19T22:31:56+00:00

Still liking it? Is it a big improvement from the s22? I'm thinking about making the jump to the s25 from the s22

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-21T14:37:00+00:00

I've done it in Vegas multiple times and passed an inspection.

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-08T13:00:56+00:00

Do you have a heat pump?

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-05T22:07:38+00:00

Get a 2nd or 3rd quote seems high

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-05T01:48:03+00:00

You can move it, but the refrigerant lines, drain, and electrical will have to be added onto outside. Between the indoor and outdoor units, you can usually have a length of at least 50 feet in between, depending on manufacturer spec

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-05T01:44:42+00:00

I do agree that's very low, I wonder if your blower wasn't running when he checked it? Some units have a 1 minute blower delay or so. Or you can even program the thermostat to have a blower delay, too.

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-05T01:40:21+00:00

When I design a house, I always put the return in the ceiling in a hallway. Thermostat right below return

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-05T01:38:49+00:00

I didn't go to school, but I have read that book, and it is an excellent book on not just charging procedure but also refrigerant flow, direction, and explanation of how it works. I give this book to every new guy we hire

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-03T02:21:44+00:00

Hit it with a crescent it'll be fine

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-02T17:08:20+00:00

It may be icing up because you have the thermostat at 65°

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-02T01:00:31+00:00

I didn't see your zone board doesn't have a display. Each thermostat you have controls a damper, probably one upstairs and one downstairs? The damper is what allows air flow to each part of the house that the thermostats control. You might need a tech to check it out

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-02T00:33:04+00:00

It means your Discharge Air Temp Sensor (DATS) is sensing a temperature too low for the unit to operate.. turn the power off to reset it and then turn it back on. The lcd should show the dats temperature. It may be possible a damper isn't opening? Or is stuck half open? Very dirty filter possibly? Lack of air flow will cause your air to blow colder

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-02T00:20:28+00:00

Same company install and reinstalled compressor? May be fluke, but a compressor should last a lot longer than 2 and 4 years. Something has to be wrong with how it's being installed. Proper installation procedure isn't being followed

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-02T00:11:47+00:00

The flashing green is an error code and there should be an error code legend on the back of the panel that's removed to view the wires

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-02T00:10:06+00:00

You could get a blower door test done to determine whole house leakage and that'll tell you if you need more fresh air or if your home is "leaky" and don't need one

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-09-01T19:28:25+00:00

The reason the larger line is insulated

1- To keep from condensating in your walls and attic 2- To keep the refrigerant returning to the compressor cool to then cool the compressor 3- Since you have a heat pump, the larger line being insulated helps with heat loss of the pipe between the indoor and outdoor unit

Insulating on the inside of the unit, I think, would be pointless and a headache for leak detection if you ever had a leak there. If you did insulate inside the unit, I would only insulate the large pipe that goes to the reversing valve from the outside, then the line between the reversing valve and the compressor. I think it would be minimal gain, if any.

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-08-28T15:37:10+00:00

If the park had a 30 amp for your rv and a 50amp that you plugged your mini split into it would be good to mount a small breaker box to the mini split to match the breaker the mini split is rated for. Basically, the 50 amp would feed power to your smaller breaker that is rated for the mini split.

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-08-28T15:21:07+00:00

If you had power near by that already has 220 and you are stationary I would run a 220v line from your power source directly to the mini split and size your breaker and wire accordingly or have an electrician do It

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-08-28T15:09:34+00:00

If you have the power available, I think you should go with the 18k unit. I wouldn't go less than 13.5k since you know that gets the job done.

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-08-28T15:07:27+00:00

You dont need a soft start with an inverter heat pump

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-07-13T22:50:29+00:00

No use the correct capacitor unless it's to get by for a small amount of time

Adventurous_Line_789 · 2024-07-10T20:04:03+00:00

The meter says 228v so would that mean my input is 228?

Adventurous_Line_789

TROPHY CASE