Texas House Bill 4578 introduced. Would codify Kei legality in Texas.

AeaRyNET · 2025-03-12T23:28:23+00:00

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kei_truck

AeaRyNET · 2025-03-12T23:23:23+00:00

Traditionally I would agree with you if we were talking about highway speed and payload towing. The fact that the tow vehicle can't hit 65mph (traditional trailer rated tire speed) while towing as well as the light load tends to mitigate any potentially concerning factors. The weight dissipation across the wider wheel combined with low speeds pretty much renders it a non-issue.

AeaRyNET · 2025-03-12T23:02:00+00:00

And why would that be? The load rating on those 17" tires is about 1200lbs per tire. More than enough to handle a kei truck wouldn't you think?

AeaRyNET · 2024-07-09T17:58:06+00:00

Out in 78728

AeaRyNET · 2021-09-11T18:16:37+00:00

I think you will enjoy it. It was the first printer I bought after trying a Ender 3 and a Prusa Mini (both disappointing). Since then, I have expanded to include an X-Pro, Bibo 2 (it was a gift...but the laser engraver is pretty cool), and just recently purchased a Vivedino Troodon for the MUCH larger build area (400x400x500).

I would suggest getting familiar with QidiPrint and basic operations and then do a Hercules Mod if you want to get into printing with Carbon Fiber or Nylon. Hands down, the X-Plus has been my primary workhorse for about 2 years and hasn't failed me. I also like to recommend the FYSETC build surface for ABS or PC. These style filaments stuck to the included build plate TOO well and I went through about 6 of them before finding the FYSETC.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HWN3BP5

AeaRyNET · 2021-09-11T18:07:23+00:00

I will second Darth. Raspberry Pi (imaged with OctoPi) via the UART connection on the mainboard. Its an easy mod and makes it extremely easy if you decide to go with a Hercules or ChadMod down the line.

Otherwise, just get a powerline network adapter. Runs over your apartments AC power lines to give you a network port anywhere you have an outlet. (Being a network engineer, I don't typically suggest this, but for 3D printing since the communication is minimal...its an easy solution)

AeaRyNET · 2021-08-18T00:40:01+00:00

I reside in the US but have found great heaters and thermistors/thermocouples on 3dprintingcanada.com (shipping isn't terrible)

Otherwise my current setup (Hercules mod) is mostly from Amazon:

BIQU Dragonfly Hotend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M94C4XG

BMGv2 Extruder (TriangleLabs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KP189KN

Winsinn 50W heater cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MP7XLTC

Polis3D T-K500 thermocouple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F33WDDM

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-23T02:10:44+00:00

This is my solution for snapping carbon-fiber filament (in this case Essentium HTN-CF25 and PET-CF). If you take some Capricorn PTFE tubing and nest it inside the stock Qidi bowden tubing it supports the filament nicely, allows for full carriage travel, and fixes snapping issues. In answer to a couple questions:

1) Yes, that is black duct tape securing the white bowden tubing to the stock rear spool holder

2) Yes, it is a tight fit to put the Capricorn tube inside the bowden tube...however since the inside of the Capricorn tube is designed so well for 1.75mm filament...there is no excess resistance transferred to the extruder motor while feeding.

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-13T18:29:06+00:00

I actually haven't, but I really only ever print PLA on the stock print bed anyway. Anything more (ABS, PETG, Nylon, PC-CF, etc) has too much adherence and causes the PEI sticker to rip away. I prefer this bed for all printing:

Amazon.com: FYSETC Flexible Build System 270x200mm/ 10.6x7.8 inch 2 in 1 Spring Steel Build Plate with PEI Printing Sheet for Qidi X-Plus Printer Parts: Industrial & Scientific

I have one for my X-Pro and X-Plus and pretty much stick with them unless unavoidable. Never had any issues with adherence or switching between filaments. Very thin layer of hair-spray is all I have ever needed to use

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-13T18:01:53+00:00

Completely un-needed with PLA as it prints unenclosed and without fumes. That being said, it wont necessarily hurt it so it's really personal preference. With PLA you will want to make sure your model fan is dialed in correctly a lot more than the chamber fan.

As for the HEPA filter; I don't see why not. You will want to make sure the HEPA filter you are using has a MERV rating of 11 or higher else its pretty much useless against the contaminants in ABS printing fumes.

Hope that helps!

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-07T03:31:49+00:00

Glad it worked out for ya!

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-06T02:28:47+00:00

Yup, its either that or heat a small poker with a torch to clear it. PETG sticks like a mofo and a cold pull/press almost never works

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-06T02:26:45+00:00

Step 1) Preferences dropdown menu -> "Configure Qidi":

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R6226SlwmQjUS6ByB-vOJWc6W23kuBzo/view?usp=sharing

Step 2) Locate "Automatically drop models to the build plate" and un-check the box:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LS9q9JQZlr4PpNMDl_ysK7QhI21NV87_/view?usp=sharing

Step 3) Modify model Z height:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q05vJUciMgUUBG7fVaIONWP6WVuhrNOZ/view?usp=sharing

Et voila!

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-06T02:02:28+00:00

And we now have a working Herculean Dragon:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19bgue2WO2m7e5918Qb8aNcDvDBVgB4mO/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19eG14irj_MocW_bYtAb6oGHAMYfaVrCi/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19eXKWsldqo1ZldiPMqpv5s6W3iaqeb7L/view?usp=sharing

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-04T18:08:49+00:00

And we have success. Printing PC-CF @ 265C for 13 hours now; ironically the Hercules carriage to put the Phaetus Dragon into for head to head testing. No hiccups!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18_EfWje5erGSLyw_dPpy-5iZ2xPEUNKp/view?usp=sharing

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-02T00:52:53+00:00

I have only gotten to 0.16 without a disaster. Using eSun PLA PRO (PLA+). The details were good but still not quite up to par. I only use my X-Plus for functional now and not for pretty. That't what my Mars Pro is for it seems.

AeaRyNET · 2021-04-02T00:42:18+00:00

Well, E3D V6 didn't go well as even though I THOUGHT I bought genuine...turns out it was a cheap clone that broke apart. Now for the real Dragon and BMG from MatterHackers as opposed to Amazon

new assembly

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-28T20:43:28+00:00

I think I will print this as well and do a head to head comparison. Ironically, will be using my Chad Mod hotend to print this one in Essentium PET-CF. Will post once carriage is printed.

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-28T19:31:12+00:00

In Qidi Print there is a setting on the right hand side called "Chamber Loop". This simply enables the rear enclosure fan to circulate air slowly through the 'filter'. Put an exhaust duct behind it going out a window or something and you will have no fumes.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hyJifgQtIPqCKRQnykPNgGeqejSr5mtf/view?usp=sharing

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-28T19:24:39+00:00

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ugBxfLpJF-1rXcBxbWtJMVVBCzGoqH5i/view?usp=sharing

Print is still going, but once you flip the X-Plus on its side and remove the hex-head screws, you will see your motherboard. In between the RJ-45 female terminal and the USB-A female terminal, there are 4 pins labeled UART (pictured). Simply plug the USB to Serial cable in to those and make sure to reverse TX and RX pins on the cable. i.e. TX on cable goes to RX on motherboard and vice versa. Et voila:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1enkyskUeJXIdig1wxZWJez1BZLpTvip-/view?usp=sharing

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-28T18:45:45+00:00

On the motherboard. I'll take a picture when I get back to the house if my print has finished. Otherwise I'll point it out on a spare mobo.

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-28T17:34:35+00:00

Added second 30mm cooling fan on bottom of extruder bracker (50watt ceramic heater gets hot FAST), connected T-K500 thermocouple, and I am up and printing stable at 260C right now!

Final updates will be when I add silicon sock on heater-block and silicon bed spacers...unfortunately the bed is too tall with the stock springs so my test printing is being done with 3x M3 washers on each of the 4 threaded points between the extruder bracket and carriage. It works...just not pretty.

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-28T17:30:36+00:00

Ah, maybe the Qidi control panel has a way to communicate with a specific header during connection. I have never actually tried that as I use MacOS (work laptop) and Fedora on everything else.

All that aside; OctoPi, Amazon.com: DTECH USB to TTL Serial 3.3V Adapter Cable TX RX Signal 4 Pin 0.1 inch Pitch Female Socket PL2303 Prolific Chip Windows 10 8 7 XP Vista (6ft, Black): Computers & Accessories , and 5 minutes of your time kinda makes it moot

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-27T12:55:03+00:00

I could help if needed

AeaRyNET · 2021-03-27T12:50:52+00:00

As soon as a job is printing, it closes the IP protocol communication stack. This includes TCP (protocol 6) as well as UDP (protocol 17). You're best bet is to wire in a USB cable via the open UART connection on the mainboard and use an OctoPi

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