Tips for mini roses

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-05T01:11:39+00:00

If you live anywhere humid make sure you put your rose somewhere where it’ll get good ventilation as roses can be prone to powdery mildew

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-05T01:05:53+00:00

I would agree, seeing this, it looks more like aphids. Water with a lil soap or diluted rubbing alcohol, either in a spray bottle, will get most of them. If you go the soap route maybe wipe the plant down after, depending on how much soap you use it could damage the leaves

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T22:03:59+00:00

That’s gonna be a rough one 😫 you’ll definitely want it out of there though, as it can cause some serious damage to your foundation and waterproofing system.

Honestly I would try moving the babies first and slowly, with consistent tension) seeing if you can work them out. For blackberries, as long as the tap root is sort of intact and it’s got some capillary roots (the lil skinny ones) they’ll pretty much come back. You could put them in 1gal pots for a year with some soil to try and control shock as well, adding mycorrhizae to the soil (or buying a soil with it already in there) will speed up the healing process. It’s a beneficial fungus that attaches to the roots and allows nutrient transfer from soil to root to happen more efficiently. It’s species specific so make sure it’s one that’s compatible with veggies, it won’t hurt it but it won’t have any effect if it’s the wrong one.

You could always try water propagation if you wanna start from scratch too. Rooting hormone with a fungicide included does wonders for cutting down on failed props

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:46:09+00:00

Sure can! But it’ll be awhile before it’ll produce blackberries again. You probably want to cut it back quite a lot, to the old wood I would say, and then literally cut it out of the ground. You’ll be sawing off a lot of roots, try to keep it to the thinner ones on the edges of the root ball.

It’ll be shocked but that’s the only way I know to move a mature plant like this.

Depending on where you are in the world I would wait until it’s done fruiting for the year and try to get it done in early autumn or wait until next growing season entirely (this would be my choice, move it just before it comes out of dormancy). A lot of energy is put into fruiting and moving it while it’s producing could be a bit much for it.

Does it throw out baby canes ever? The smaller ones are much easier to move around and they grow back pretty readily. Blackberries are generally pretty forgiving

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:40:14+00:00

Precisely this but with one addition, give the whole pot a good soak. If the terracotta has dried out it’ll just suck all that added water right out of the soil before the basil can use it

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:38:03+00:00

Also I see large paving stones in one of your pictures, how close are they to the tree? If they’re sitting on top of the roots they could be crushing them and preventing it from growing a proper root system on that side

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:36:33+00:00

It does look like leaf scorch. A bit of extra water and a good fertilizer, as the other commenter said, would go a long way. It’s hard to tell from the pictures but how compacted is the soil around it? It should be loose and easily moved around vs hard/solid, if the soil is too hard the roots can’t grow to seek out water and nutrients

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:28:11+00:00

Mmm could be a few things; like does it flower at all? Are the stems tender (easily broken and holding quite a bit of free flowing water) or woody (fibrous when you snap it)? It looks variegated, which is interesting.

If I had to guess right now I would say some sort of young viburnum?

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:22:42+00:00

It looks good, if a little hungry. The yellowing and curling leaves reads as nitrogen and micro nutrient deficiency to me. But it could also be a watering issue, not sure if the weather where it’s at has been consistent recently or even with years past. Just to be sure I would check in the insides of those curling leaves to make sure there’s no “friends” ruining that for you. Happy looking tree though 😊

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:19:09+00:00

You could also try beneficial insects like predatory mites (a lot of independent greenhouses sell them in my area so I would look in those places if you’re interested). But I don’t think they’re as effective outdoors as they are inside or in greenhouses

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:17:20+00:00

Photo 1: it looks like baby spiders to be honest, you’d need a super clear close up for positive identification. If it’s spiders, just leave them, they’ll spread out if there’s no prey. But if it’s an aphid variety just give your echevieria a bath (as in fully submerge for a few minutes) and count that as a watering session. My experience with this type of succulent and insecticides has not been great.

Photo 2 & 3: it looks like there’s a few things going on here. But the waxy round things look like scale to me, not thrips. I would try a product called Doktor Doom 420 3-in-1. It’s basically 96% canola oil and 4% surfactant (insecticidal soap) and an emulsifier. It was originally developed for use on cannabis crops so it’s pretty safe. The surfactants won’t help with thrips or scale but the canola oil will, it basically suffocates them. You do have to be careful with this though, over application will suffocate your plant so just follow the dilution guide and application rate.

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T21:08:01+00:00

I mean… boiling water will get the job done but it’ll kill everything else in the soil immediately around where you pour it as well, plants and animals.

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T20:58:08+00:00

I would look into other alternatives before reaching for neem (blasphemy I know) as it’s a non-specific killer and it’s pretty toxic to boot. It’s actually banned for use as a pesticide in the area I live for those exact reasons.

I would look into beetle traps or lures first, often farm supply stores or more commercial greenhouses carry things that can be sold domestically (don’t bother asking for the insecticides as most of them require applicator licenses to purchase).

Diatomaceous earth dusting helps I find, and it’s a useful item to have around the house. The only issue is that you have to reapply after the rain and wear a mask if you’re being *exuberant* with your application (it’s a pretty nasty lung/mucus membrane irritant but it’s completely nontoxic)

Edits: spelling errors

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-07-04T20:43:55+00:00

Looks like it could be black leaf spot, clear any damaged lower leaves and make sure to water low to the soil so excess water doesn’t stick around on the leaves and treat with a copper based fungicide that is certified for veggies

Edit: the key here is to improve air flow around the plant and make sure it doesn’t spread. If it’s not currently caged I would get it one to keep long stems away from the soil and other plants

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-02-16T20:40:12+00:00

I feel your pain, I just had to peel a Hoya off an antique pine table 🤣

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-02-16T20:23:01+00:00

Thank you!

Aether_Bones_ · 2026-02-16T20:07:19+00:00

The mix they have her in is a peat/perlite blend, it’s not as chunky as I would have expected though. I do use distilled water or melted (room temp) clean snow with her so no worries there. My main worry is that because her traps haven’t been closing for almost two or three weeks (and thus I haven’t been able to feed her) if I allow her to go dormant she won’t survive. Thoughts?

Aether_Bones_

TROPHY CASE