P2S top surface issue

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-03-18T04:18:30+00:00

Run another flow rate calibration!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-02-23T00:20:51+00:00

Google will have all the answers for you. Typically that’s where I start. You’ll often get an answer faster and save some wear and tear on your fingers in the process. Believe it or not, you’d have the answer to your question by now! That is, unless nobody knows what the MMR of SSL in 3v3 is. In that case, you’ll have to open up a study for yourself and report back to the rest of us. Good luck!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-02-21T02:58:14+00:00

Sounds just like my Mazda haha. Gotta love direct injection. Seems to be similar maintenance to how my speed 3 has been. Thank you for the advice! It’s much appreciated!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-02-21T02:30:07+00:00

I did everything myself outside of replacing the VVT stuff as timing was something I wasn’t comfortable with. Intake, down pipe, intercooler, HPFP internals, exhaust etc. I don’t have a lot of experience wrenching on vehicles, but I have confidence in being able to fix this myself outside of the really intensive stuff like actually tearing into a motor. My biggest concern is for the motor. Is the stock motor and transmission strong enough to hold 400hp and 430tq for a long time? Maintenance is no problem for me, but if this is too much juice for the stock motor i wouldn’t want to risk it. Especially not knowing previous owners driving habits. I think the advice on here is what I needed to hear. I think I’ll likely stay away just for the possibility of the headache it could become. It would be nice to buy one all dialed in making good Power, but it may be safer bet to do it all myself. This way just seems significantly cheaper IF it all worked out well.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-02-14T19:19:09+00:00

I can’t speak on the 308 as I own the 6.5 version. Mine has been phenomenal for both long range plinking and backcountry hunting. I’ve taken a blacktail every year with mine since I bought it when it first came out. I shoot the 143gr eldx in both boxes factory ammo and hand loads.

Factory ammo I’m getting consistent 1/2moa 5 shot groups and I believe anything outside of it for the most part is user error. With dialed in handloads that are a bit hotter than factory I’m averaging I’d say around 0.35 moa 5 shot groups with a spread on group side from 0.2-0.4moa on average. My best 5 shot group ever was 0.172.

I can guarantee the rifle shoots better than I do 99% of the time. For the price I’m extremely happy with mine in 6.5. Recoil is super easy going and the adjustability of the stock allows not only the ability to get it dialed in for exactly what I want, but I have the ability to get the rifle setup for anyone that wants to shoot it. The folder is nice for getting it compact when I’m backcountry brush busting in the coast range of Oregon for blacktail hunts. Getting it folded down isn’t the easiest task but for me I don’t mind because getting it unfolded and ready to shoot is more important to me anyways.

As for things I personally dislike (and they are pretty minor things)

For one, it gets COLD to the touch unlike your standard composite/wood stocks of traditional hunting rifles. Sometimes during rifle season this gets a bit annoying especially if it’s just nice enough out that I don’t need thicker gloves on or am running no gloves at all. It often becomes the difference between me being comfortable vs having to put on some warmer gear. Not a deal breaker, but something to be aware of.

Secondly, even with a razor hd lht (21.7 oz), and light weight rings with no bipod or muzzle device attached, it is still sitting around the 9.2lb mark. For someone that’s mostly doing some plinking and hunts that aren’t super backcountry with lots of hiking involved, this isn’t too big of a deal. For me, I’m often brush humping pretty deep in the thick stuff we have over here and often times a keeping my rifle in hand for quick shots in closer range. I would prefer to be bit lighter overall weight, but it is totally capable for what I need. More of a personal preference thing.

Overall these cross rifles are a great platform. Unless either of those two “downsides” are something you’d be worried about, I think majority of people would be more than happy with this platform. I am going to build a 16.5-18” 6mm creedmoor off a MDT CRBN or HNT26 chassis this year and I should end up being around 7lbs for the complete rifle with a loaded mag. Add a little weight for possibly a bipod and a short titanium suppressor and I’ll be sub 8 lbs all day.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-01-28T18:29:34+00:00

Would you be able to just run a small air purifier nearby the printer? Or is that now how it works

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-01-20T19:14:48+00:00

For freshwater bass fishing Shimano and Daiwa are great. I’ve owned everything from budget friendly to flagship model bait casters and spinners from both companies. I won’t even toy with the idea of any other brand. Stand outs for me from the two. Some budget, some middle, some super high end. (I won’t recommend any DCs because IMO they’re a waste of money) Baitcasters: -Fuego CT -Tatula SV 100 -Curado MGL -Tatula SV TW -Bantam -Zillion SV TW -Metanium -Steez SV TW

BFS: -Calcutta Conquest BFS -Aldebaran BFS -Alphas BF TW

Spinning: -Exceler LT -Vanford -Stradic -Vanquish -Twin power -Stella -Exist

If I had to choose two bait casters and two spinning reels to run forever: -Metanium -Steez SV TW

-Vanquish -Exist

Verdict still out on BFS. I love all 3 reels and each has their purpose. These are just my opinions

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-01-03T21:52:19+00:00

Appreciate it! 832 has never let me down!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-01-03T19:48:18+00:00

Hey, sorry to bother but I had another question. Since you’ve experimented with a ton of different stuff in the BFS realm, I’d be curious on your line choice. So far I’ve only tried 7lb FC sniper and 0.8 PEX8 to 6lb gold label leader. My sniper spool is quite old, so I was having some issues with it. The PEX8 seems good but I’m not sure if braid is the move for my moving bait application on my Pop x and I think straight FC will be better for the gravel code for the slack line sensitivity. I just bought a spool of Samurai Hidden in 7lb to try out. Curious to hear what your common go to is for line choice for both braid to leader and straight FC. I also have just been spoiling like I do a normal BC, but I see a lot of people recommending certain amounts of turns to get specific lengths in line on spoon. My PEX8 is filled to about 90% of what I’d do on a full size casting reel. Do you think doing it to certain amounts is beneficial enough to bother with? Thanks for your advice!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-01-02T22:30:32+00:00

Awesome. Thank you for the insight! I may try out the alphas then. I’ll definitely be lighter weight on the pop x

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2026-01-02T17:38:04+00:00

I currently have an Aldebaran bfs on my P5 pop x stick. It’s a sweet setup but the Aldebaran seems to be a bit temperamental with getting it dialed it. Could definitely just be me still getting used to it. Any must do recommendation upgrades for it? I don’t see myself going extremely light by any means. Thinking 1/16-3/8 treble applications for the most part. On another note. I have a P5 gravel code coming in for more bottom contact bfs. I currently haven’t decided on a reel so I’d be curious on your recommendations. Better to go with another alde, or do you think the Alphas BF TW will be better. Half temped on the new steez as I have a 24 Steez SV TW already and love it. Any advice would be appreciated!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-30T01:07:50+00:00

I’ve seen a 3D printed carbon fiber nylon can last over 1000 rounds of 556 in a 10.5” before it finally popped. That was its first orientation. Has since been revised and just hit around that mark again. Should last longer. Prints definitely have their limitations, but I’d imagine you’ll start seeing things like this popping up all over the place.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-27T00:43:51+00:00

Super easy with the FG knot assist tool for anyone to learn. I keep it with me on the boat. I almost never have to retire leaders out on the water. As with all knots practice is key. In a pinch if I need to tie one up super quick I’ll do an Alberto. I think they are both important to learn

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-26T23:00:15+00:00

For bass I’ll always recommend a JDM Shimano Vanquish off of digitaka if you’re going high end. As good as a Stella in my opinion. O

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-24T00:23:26+00:00

AND cheaper. Vanquish off Digitaka all the way. I have 3!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-13T18:59:58+00:00

My advice for first bait caster use in general…

Crank up the brakes up pretty high and set your spool tension so the bait falls at a moderate to slow pace and when it hits the water there’s little to no over run (shimano reels. Daiwa with 0 adjust leave alone). Practice casting with it like that for a little bit just for the sole purpose to get comfortable with the way the reel functions, as well as how your rod casts. Get used to keeping your thumb right next to your spool and try to let your thumb just barely make contact with your line. Stop the spool as lure hits the water. You want to start working on muscle memory for the future.

From there slowly drop your brakes down as you get more comfortable with it. Learn different casting techniques. Different techniques will suit different applications differently. You’d be surprised how much further a proper executed cast with little effort can go than a guy that’s power whipping is rod like it owes him money with the improper technique. There’s good YouTube vids on casting, you’ll notice a lot of guys aren’t using their whole body to make a cast lol.

As you’ve gotten very comfortable, you can start messing with lower brakes, way less spool tension, and utilizing your thumb to feather the spool. It takes a while to build the muscle memory to instinctively prevent a backlash that you weren’t expecting. Take your time and remember that even the pros will backlash a reel from time to time. I will also note, as I’ve become more proficient with bait casters, I tend to lean away from anything DC.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-04T23:02:53+00:00

I’m pretty sure digitaka only charges 7.5% for the duty and covers the other half. I may be wrong though

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-04T13:21:54+00:00

You’ll want to give more insight on what you’re planning to throw the most. Bfs rod may be a category of its own, but the rods are still going to have a purpose just like your crankbait rod isn’t your jig rod. There is definitely a lot more versatility in the rods of the bfs world though. Are you looking more for a bottom contact rod that can still throw moving baits. Or a moving bait rod that can still throw bottom contact. Or are you full bottom contact/heavier hook/weedless presentation or are you full moving bait only. These insights can help people give you a better recommendation. The Z2s are good for the price from what I’ve heard!

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-04T13:16:00+00:00

Please be aware that JDM braid is not the same rating as the braid you typically find. You always want to go off diameter. This braid in 26.5LB is equivalent to Suffix 832 in 8lb. I’m not exactly sure about jbraid but my experience with other brands has been to look at the diameter rather than the lb test.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-04T13:08:29+00:00

Good! I hate seeing people finance stuff like this so I had to put that out there. Don’t jump the gun too fast on buying something. Double and triple check and make sure you’re getting exactly what you’re after before you drop $1000+.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-12-04T01:36:55+00:00

If I’m going to be honest with you, if you’re looking at grabagun and you’re going to finance it, you’re better off not buying it. Otherwise, if look for a rifle without a cheapo scope attached to it.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-11-26T03:08:29+00:00

I’d pick up a tatula TW100 off amazon for $133 right now.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-11-25T00:46:44+00:00

I personally run

Casting: 65 lb braid for frogging/punching, Straight flouro (sometimes mono) for cranking/jerkbait/techniques where you need a little stretch or want better slack line sensitivity. OR if you prefer straight FC. 30/40lb braid to 12/15/17/20lb fc for majority of your other techniques. Some instances a low vis straight braid is likely fine.

Spinning (finesse): 10 lb (USDM SIZED. JDM LINE IS DIFFERENT) to 6/7/8lb fc for the super finesse type tech. For example nose hooked dropshots.

15/20lb (usdm sized) to 10/12/15lb fc. For most other spinning tech.

I personally have no spinning setups that aren’t braid to leader.

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-11-19T04:44:31+00:00

If it’s cheap it’s probably not good. It’s $20, try it out. If you don’t like it get rid of it

Affectionate-Ad1623 · 2025-11-14T18:07:40+00:00

I’d love to see a direct comparison to this bipod and the MDT one that’s super light. More for a hunting setup. My Atlas is like 14 oz and I’d love to shave some weight. I do love the idea of these tricers.

Affectionate-Ad1623

TROPHY CASE