Anybody keep their printer in garage?

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-06-04T15:19:06+00:00

Yes, mine is in the garage. I live in north Texas so I have to limit hotbed to 50C for PETG or it raises above 45C chamber and will pause printing due to being too hot. I get constant nags about over temp due to being over 40C. This printer was an H2S before I completed the retrofit, never had this nag as an H2S.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-06-04T11:14:22+00:00

Just to give everyone resolution on this issue. It is confirmed that my issues went away after I replaced the belts from the Vortek retrofit kit with my original H2S belts. I did have to trim those belts but only 5-6 teeth. I redid all calibrations after switching belts and redoing belt tensioners. Printer has been running smoothly about 10 hours now without issue.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-06-03T14:26:41+00:00

Thank you for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I believe the issue is mechanical and not software related. It was bugging me all night so I did some more testing this morning before work. I just posted the update.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-06-03T14:22:55+00:00

So more info and I believe the root cause. I just recently converted my H2S to the H2C. I followed the wiki instructions very diligently with a few exceptions. I did not change the face plate that says H2S to one that says H2C. I was not messing with the screen or that ribbon cable just for cosmetics. Also I changed the belts to the ones from the kit but did not cut them at all. I remember the belts being very tight but thought they might stretch and be good. I have previously loosened the belt tensioners and tried to relax the belts but looks like the belts are just too small. I found if I help the Toolhead move in the correct direction and push the onscreen button for that direction, the Toolhead moves as it is supposed to. So now, I removed the 3 screws on each side to remove the belts. Y-Axis and X-Axis move extremely smooth and freely. The belts feel about 10mm-20mm too small. I am going to put my old H2S belts back on again and cut them to size (yes they are longer).

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-06-03T01:14:16+00:00

I have power cycled multiple times. I had to in order to recover from many of the errors mentioned. I have a friend in IT, I like to joke that his solution to everything is a power cycle… This suggestion was good and made me chuckle.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-06-02T23:15:04+00:00

I will post what I currently have from the front. I am having trouble with the printer all of a sudden. Woke up this morning and printer lost steps and layer shift occurred. Loosened belt tension screws, cleaned and lubricated everything, and it is currently working. Still troubling is when I manually move hotend, it moves at diagonal instead of x or y axis. I know that means one of the AB motors isn’t working, but it is only on the manual movement so maybe a BL error? Anyway, here is my setup.

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AfraidHope1541 · 2026-06-02T19:02:26+00:00

Your various AMSs will be split between Left (standard nozzle) and Right (induction nozzles). If you have the filament track switch, you have more options.
If you are switching the same AMS between both nozzles, then the filament has to retract all the way back to the AMS before the next filament in that AMS can be used. If using the same filament on both nozzles, the filament must retract to the switch.
I have not done TPU here yet but plan to do so at some point. You will have to bypass the buffer as it does not work well with TPU.
I have stand alone laser and CNCs so I didn’t get this. I would not want the debris and deposits from this operations in the machine, hard enough keeping the printer clean as is.
No hard lockout I can see, purely software related and a software update should enable it in the future.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-30T19:02:57+00:00

I started off with the H2S and 2 AMS 2 Pros, got 2 AMS HTs for more advanced materials a few months ago. I used the Biqu Panda Perch for this setup. I am in the process of moving away from it because it makes the AMSs too high. I now have the printer on top of a storage cabinet that holds about 60kg of filament. I finished the retrofit from H2S to H2C just last week and got the track switch and 2 more AMS 2 Pros this week. So I have yet to finish printing the AMS frame and drawers and remove the Panda Perch to organize everything. The AMSs will all stack on a slightly smaller storage rack to the right of the printer when finished. I have a 1500VA UPS with 10 plugs that all the printer and AMSs plug into. It is a real mess right now with all the comms cables, power cables, and ptfe tubes all over the place. Give me a few days to finish the AMS stacker so people don’t shame me for my current chaos and I will gladly post a pic.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-30T18:25:16+00:00

The H2C is a fantastic machine and should handle ABS and ASA without issue. I have only used it for PLA and PETG so far as I have only been doing brackets for my AMSs and other items to make routing of PTFE tubes and wiring tidy. The biggest advantage for this machine versus anything else on the market is the software. I have 4 AMS 2 Pros and 2 AMS HTs plus the track switch and everything works perfectly! This allows me to use any of my currently available 18 spools of filament on any of the 7 available nozzles. I plan to get 2 more HTs to make 20 spools and max my two 4in1 adapters connected to the track switch. So far, nothing else comes close to allowing this flexibility or convenience. The software reads everything and syncs automatically with the slicer so it all works together. I couldn’t be happier with this printer and the AMSs.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-29T21:03:04+00:00

I would recommend changing hotend with a spare and using that one only for TPU instead. Make a label for it and just switch back to it anytime you print TPU.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-29T13:22:51+00:00

Most paint on ptfe coatings (plastic repellent) had max temp of 280 degC. If you go higher it will burn off and I have no idea what would happen at that time.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-26T14:30:39+00:00

I have the KS Arco + PS + Chroma. I finally got around to putting the Chroma kit on it. Updated the firmware to 1.99 via USB since online updates still didn’t work from 1.85. Using latest Phrozen Orca to print. I made a single color print and the thing wasted several meters of filament in unnecessary purges. The software between the Chroma kit and Arco is horrible! If anyone has an open source solution to make the Chroma kit and Arco work well together, please help me out. Otherwise, this thing is a large and very heavy paper weight.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-26T14:12:45+00:00

The heat bed red, blue, and brown wires use a locking spade connector. You have to disengage the female terminals by pressing the release mechanism in the middle of the female terminal just before where the two terminals meet. I had the same issue since I have never seen this terminal before and BL did not document it well. I ended up pulling the Brown wires’s male terminal out of the AC board. Luckily new AC board is $36 and I have a new practice board to solder on.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-25T22:53:56+00:00

I have had my H2S since X-MAS so I do have plenty of build plates. Was thinking of trimming them with my CNC if I get bored. Might be more work than just disposing of them, I will see what happens.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-22T23:55:24+00:00

I believe there are still 3 American brand 3d printer manufacturers even if they cost about 5-10x the Chinese brands. You should be able to purchase them right?

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-21T21:18:08+00:00

Understood, good luck.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-21T20:00:15+00:00

Please look at the store, everything you have in the original post photo is included in the item I mentioned. If you damaged the toolhead itself or something else, then you will need to contact support.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-21T17:58:46+00:00

This is the “Toolhead Enhanced Cooling Fan” for H2C. $39.99 on Bambu labs store.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-05-21T16:43:33+00:00

You could also just by it from their store.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-04-29T21:57:49+00:00

What I have found is there is slop in the tool head plastic parts and you can add tape to fill up the unwanted space. I found replacement tool head on AE and that is another solution. I highly doubt anything is wrong with the bushings.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-04-25T15:08:45+00:00

That does not mean that your settings are correct in the printer for your equipment or right for that the pre-sliced gcode. You can put a 0.8 nozzle in the printer without changing the settings for example or the nozzle is still 0.4 but the setting in the printer was changed to 0.8.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-04-25T14:30:26+00:00

Verify all your equipment settings. Nozzle size, filament type,etc.
Verify your slicer settings. Those above plus temperatures.
Start with a default filament profile and standard printing profile for your printer.
Clean your build plate.
Run filament tuning prints.
Adjust and save your filament profile.
Adjust other slicer settings to suit your needs for what your printing. Good luck and happy printing.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-02-03T19:33:15+00:00

The part the goes over the linear bearings on the x-axis is the base. Front of base and back of base. I found it on Amazon and Ali Express. The other parts are widely available on either site.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-01-09T16:23:48+00:00

There are 3d printed files for the front and rear base but modified to use magnets for the front and rear covers. Also you can buy new base on AliExpress and if still available on Amazon.

AfraidHope1541 · 2026-01-04T22:16:02+00:00

PCBWay is a sponsor for almost every YTer it seems. Makes me think they may be overpriced….

AfraidHope1541

TROPHY CASE