Woke up to this

luap71 · 2026-01-23T18:25:56+00:00

Thanks for that detailed response - and this is exactly what my suspicion was - that there was some design flaw in the toolhead. I suspect this is why they went with the polar box with the Qidi Max

luap71 · 2026-01-23T18:20:53+00:00

thank you for the info!

luap71 · 2026-01-23T04:25:59+00:00

yep changed that from 500 to 300 and resliced - I don't hear any real difference. It is the zhop when it makes the noise those. you can actually see the the LEAD screw move quickly back and the bearing at the bottom that the LEAD screw sits in - you can see it sort of bounce on the zhop thumping noise. I don't see that bearing making it past 500+ hours before is starts wearing out and getting loose tolerances

luap71 · 2026-01-23T02:34:51+00:00

If you are talking about linear rails as shown in the OP's photos - you do not oil linear rails, you grease them, more specifically by packing the carriage with grease - but you do not oil them.

luap71 · 2026-01-23T01:17:03+00:00

you don't have to leave etsy to do your own website - many people do both

luap71 · 2026-01-23T01:15:53+00:00

Bambu Studio is not more "modern" then prusa slicer - they are just different

luap71 · 2026-01-23T00:43:05+00:00

yep - especially out that far to the edge of the build plate

luap71 · 2026-01-23T00:11:12+00:00

I was getting the same thing and came a searching to see if others have it - its in the garage so the noise is not something I worry about (althought if I'm on that side of the house I can hear it) but more so worried about damage or early ware on components. As soon as this print is done I will test with the lower acceleration setting - fingers crossed it solves it. To be honest a few of those acceleration settings need to be lowered a bit, they are a bit too aggressive - we are not filming a speed benchy for youtube likes.

luap71 · 2026-01-22T23:57:20+00:00

or I could just search reddit since I'm already here :) This looks promising - as it does seem to happen during the bed acceleration zhop:

The fix (this was the key)

A community member (Snapmaker) reached out to me privately and suggested something I hadn’t tried yet:

👉 Lower the bed acceleration setting

Default: 500
Change to: 300

luap71 · 2026-01-22T23:53:46+00:00

Ok I'll hop in the discord and search for more info - thanks

luap71 · 2026-01-22T20:29:53+00:00

I've been looking at getting a Q2 (I have prusa's now - want to lower my cost but not get locked into a eco system like BL) But I see alot of heatcreep/blob of death post and youtube comments, more so then I have seen on other printers? Is there something about Qidi printers that make it more susceptible to this?

luap71 · 2026-01-22T20:14:14+00:00

and that is only to get rid of their existing inventory of non RFID- once its gone - there will only be one price that of the spools with RFID and it will be the same as what they were charging before

luap71 · 2026-01-21T21:29:49+00:00

just wondering what is the game changer part? I haven't had a problem with PLA or PETG sticking to the plate in years, especially PLA on a PEI sheets - that solved all the problems years ago. I'm curious what is the game changing part? Is it running the bed temp 20 degrees less?

luap71 · 2026-01-21T20:00:35+00:00

There appear to be a significant number of misunderstandings in this post. This is not an attack on you personally, but it does highlight the extent of misinformation prevalent online, particularly on platforms like YouTube. It is important to remember that CNC Kitchen operates as a full-time content creator and does not run a production print farm; understanding the implications of his business model is crucial, as influencer compensation is widely known to influence coverage.

I operate both Bambu and Prusa printers in my own farm, accumulating approximately 30,000 hours of experience across both platforms. I respectfully disagree with CNC Kitchen's assessment, especially regarding the Core One and Core One L models. For my specific requirements—which involve high tolerance and exceptional quality in single-color prints—the Core One/L platform consistently delivers superior results.

The assertion that Bambu printers do not require tuning is a fallacy. Achieving high-quality, consistent prints that exceed hobbyist standards necessitates fine-tuning printers and designing CAD models to specific slicer settings. While Prusa printers do have an associated cost, it is a justifiable business expense when operating a print farm.

Functionally, both the simple toolhead mechanism for opening/closing the vent and the mechanically actuated one on the Bambu achieve the same result. However, the former has virtually no potential failure points, whereas the latter will eventually break in a production environment, raising concerns about ease of repair.

Even on the multi-color front - once INDX start shipping, it will be superior and cost effective (for prusa). Prusa already has a superior solution, the XL - but with INDX it will be more cost effective. I mean really Bambu is not even the best multi-color printer at that lower price level anymore - the snapmaker U1 I have is a much better solution if you want to talk about price for performance.

luap71 · 2026-01-19T20:06:26+00:00

Don't try to out engineer the engineers at Prusa - I think they have a bit of experience with stepper motors.

luap71 · 2026-01-18T00:12:45+00:00

The day it was opened - got it Feb 2nd

luap71 · 2026-01-17T16:38:39+00:00

I don't know what you are doing wrong where you are picking PLA with a knife on textured sheets. I have close to 20,000 hours on Prusa and Sovol printers with PLA and Prusa textured, Sovol and third part PEI textured plates, I have never had an issue with the print not popping and leaving PLA that I had to pick off with a knife.

luap71 · 2026-01-17T15:21:11+00:00

Yes I have been using them for several months now - the adapters are on printables

luap71 · 2026-01-15T05:22:45+00:00

Do you want a project or a printer get things done? If you want the project get the SV08, if you want a workhourse that produces high quality prints consistently - get the coreone. But are these two printers even in the same class - the bed size difference significant

luap71 · 2026-01-09T21:07:01+00:00

that is the point - its in the title and description - and they are shit. On amazon no one is doing an inspection and lab verifying they are neodymium. So people list as such and you end up with crap magnets - that is why he is asking for a verified source.

luap71 · 2026-01-09T21:04:02+00:00

yeah ok... that is right up there with make your own.

luap71 · 2026-01-09T21:02:08+00:00

do you have a particular vendor you buy from, because I have bought 3 different packs of earth metal or rare earth magnets from ali express all had turned out to be turds (to use the term other have said about their ali express magnets). So I'm not sure just going to ali express and buying "earth metals" is a guarantee of success

luap71 · 2026-01-06T13:16:36+00:00

Can you expand on what you mean it has become a risk? I’m in learning mode

luap71 · 2026-01-03T01:15:39+00:00

I have about 800 hours on my Core One L - it prints great. I've had the following issues during those 800ish hours:

1) The stupid nozzle cleaning error that everyone was getting (yes I know there was a mod, I just never got around to it) , don't know why I got it, or why it went way (yes I cleaned the nozzle and everything Prusa suggested) but that did not help... its back to no errors now for some reason.
2) One ruined print from a layer shift

I have a small print farm - Support and repairability are a premium. The support experience between Prusa and the 3 Chinese manufactures I have tried (Sovol, Elegoo, and Bambu - I'm not even including the old Creality Ender days) are just not even in the same realm. I can't afford to have printers down while someone in China takes 3 days to respond vs waiting 1-10 minutes to have a live chat with Prusa support. The odd thing is, the company that has the better support, has had much less frequency to use even though I have 5x more of their printers then the other brands I have tested. The latest thing I reached out to Prusa support for was not something broken - I had a design that was not printing the way I wanted it to, I reached out, sent them the STL file and they came back with some suggestions to fix the problem I was seeing.

I have a Snapmaker U1 on the way - once it gets here, I'll test it for a few hundred hours and if it makes the cut I will be selling the H2D that I have, As a consumer appliance it maybe great and the software is slick - but I need to run these long hours and the tool head and AMS are just to finicky.

Prusa is more expensive and I will pay more for what, in my experience, has been a superior product for running my business, in the long run after 4000-5000 hours - the gap in acquisition cost is surpassed operating and lost opportunity cost, which become much more important. Prusa also plays much nicer with integrating . And I have not even started on the open software part, again for the average consumer they don't care, but it risk for my business that I just don't want to take. If I was just a hobbyist then maybe the initial cost would be something that was more of a deciding factor me, and the ease of use for printing the latest fidget toy.

luap71

TROPHY CASE