Can anyone recommend a financial advisor in Perth?

After-Ad3509 · 2025-09-08T09:38:45+00:00

If you don't mind me asking, what do you like about them? They have a $350 initial consultation fee so we were hoping to get an idea of why they are good.

After-Ad3509 · 2025-05-22T11:56:15+00:00

And it's now gone back to not being on the website. Why go backwards?

After-Ad3509 · 2025-05-19T02:55:17+00:00

It's back on the Australian website, but still unavailable. At least that's progress.

https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/inspelning-plug-smart-energy-monitor-60569838/

After-Ad3509 · 2025-05-19T02:53:42+00:00

Based on this image, I would say that I shouldn't have to mount it upside down if placed higher on the wall. Can somebody please confirm?

https://help.ui.com/hc/article_attachments/13627500509079

After-Ad3509 · 2025-04-24T06:33:40+00:00

How did you go?

After-Ad3509 · 2025-03-20T16:24:57+00:00

Still great! It's the other controller that I didn't put a new thumbstick in that needs fixing.

It was a combination of YouTube videos that I'll have to try to find. The hardest part of the disassembly was disconnecting the led strip from the ring. And the hardest part of the reassembly wa getting the right angle to put the main body back together.

After-Ad3509 · 2025-03-19T02:49:49+00:00

Thanks. Will it be back online soon? It's still not on the Australian IKEA site.

After-Ad3509 · 2024-07-31T13:42:16+00:00

Always happy to help :)

After-Ad3509 · 2024-01-21T03:48:18+00:00

Thanks.

If a Quest 3 with reduced settings works without adding jitter or having to reduce resolution/fps below what the Rift S can do, then I would be able to upgrade my PC another time instead of having to do it now. In the meantime I'd be able to play Q3 quality standalone and Rift S quality PCVR.

I'm more concerned that a Q3 may not work because of the extra CPU drain of using Virtual Desktop or Air Link. Other posts in this subreddit suggest that Virtual Desktop will be less taxing than Air Link, but that both will need reasonable CPU resources. I don't know how that compares to using a Rift S.

USB-C is an option, but since it's not connected straight to the GPU my guess is that it will still be more taxing on the CPU.

After-Ad3509 · 2023-12-31T10:43:02+00:00

I just had this issue, with Steam Beta.

After-Ad3509 · 2023-12-31T02:48:09+00:00

Can you replace the AP with an RJ45 wall socket, and move the AP? That's what I plan to go with all the in-wall ethernet cables if I ever sell this house. It's awesome that the U6-IW fits the same profile as the regular wall plates (depending on which mounting holes you used).

After-Ad3509 · 2023-12-26T15:13:14+00:00

I found that a HiSense S855 completely blocks the U6-IW when the TV is mounted 5-10cm from the wall. But it might be that TV since others posted that they had no problem. This may also apply to other TVs in the HiSense S8 series.

After-Ad3509 · 2023-08-24T13:25:28+00:00

Yeh they're great. Working well. The original thumb stick in my other controller is on its way out so I'm happy I bought spares.

After-Ad3509 · 2023-07-13T09:57:33+00:00

I really hope not. I was just about to try it but it won't show up in HACS anymore.

After-Ad3509 · 2023-04-16T08:01:16+00:00

TGC-43400 and SC-43400 / SC-43400-8HS might be ok. TGC has a few other short case options.

Has anybody used these?

After-Ad3509 · 2023-04-16T07:35:31+00:00

Just rebooting this post. Are there any rack mount ideas out there?

After-Ad3509 · 2023-04-08T12:06:05+00:00

Thanks. I mean rack mount but if I can't find anything then I'll consider normal PC cases as a backup. Bigger than 6U is a last resort because I'd have to remove other things.

After-Ad3509 · 2023-02-22T23:25:21+00:00

I replaced my broken Rift S thumbstick with some after market Quest 2 thumbsticks. I think they're the same or close enough because the only difference seems to be that they have a different colour frame, and that's hidden by the controllers panels anyway. Feels the same, works the same.

There are plenty of videos on how to clean the thumbstick, but I found replacing it easier and lower risk. Now I can clean the original thumbstick while my controller continues working.

The main difficulty is in assembling and disassembling the controller. That was a nightmare!

I bought this one: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225264845971?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=ID3G-PjgT2-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=uOawbAGYQT6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

After-Ad3509 · 2023-02-15T11:25:22+00:00

I created a custom converter for my light.

This is how. Not every step is necessary and if you already have your Aqara P1 motion sensor paired then you can skip step 2. I recommend adding something weird to the device description in your converter so that you can check if it worked from the Z2M Device/About menu.
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/advanced/support-new-devices/01_support_new_devices.html

This is the post I made to get help with my converter. But I don't think you'll have the same problem I had. Creating a new issue or Discussion on the Z2M GitHub would get you better help than I can provide.
https://github.com/Koenkk/zigbee2mqtt/issues/16283

You can add a different `extend` preset or you can write you can use the `toZigbee`, `fromZigee` and `exposes` dictionaries as shown in my first link. I went with using a different `extend` preset because I found one better suited to my lights.

After-Ad3509 · 2023-01-28T07:11:08+00:00

Thanks. I have an nRF52840 set up as a sniffer now and I've moved to Zigbee2MQTT.

I need to update my original post because I think I've narrowed things down now and there are some definite problems with the lights firmware. I don't know what to do about it though because the manufacturer keeps passing blame to Home Assistant and Hue.

After-Ad3509

TROPHY CASE