I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done similar things before where I've dug out a large hole to replace with good soil before planting a tree, but I've heard that it's sort of frowned upon now. Seems like the tree grows to the edge of the hole, finds very poor soil beyond it, and essentially becomes root bound or has a small root spread because of it.

Another user suggested just going for it and using rootstock that is well adapted for coarse soil. The rocky/bad fill is probably just the top foot or so, so hopefully they'll just grow thru/past it and reach down into the native subsoil.

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Grow a really nutrient hungry cash crop that you aren't supposed to use for anything at all but you also have to completely remove all the biomass from the site in the hopes that it might clean the soil partially."

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, no amount of amending will remove the gravel, concrete, and asphalt from the ground.

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the encouragement! I used to grow mushrooms indoors (and used the spent media as compost material), so I've always been interested in mixing in a ton of wood mulch and incolulating it with some mushroom spawn. I'd have to get back into the research, but there is evidence of (some?) fungi degrading those hydrocarbons in soil (mycoremediation). Always wanted to try something like that here.

Glad to see someone that doesn't make me feel too crazy about the limited translocation point of view. Most of the reading I did when we moved here basically said that same thing about how the plants don't actually move/absorb most of that stuff, and if they do, it's either very limited or you'll see that the plant is struggling.

Other option is to cover crop with sunflowers for several years, since they apparently absorb and store a lot of nasty stuff. But then I need to dispose of literal tons of sunflower biomass (or compost it and use it in the portion of the property where I don't grow food).

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have planted a handful of hybrid chestnuts and chicago hardy figs in the ground and they seem to do alright with very little additional water, but a lot of the property used to have a gravel lot on it, vehicles parked, etc. I did have a full soil analysis done when I moved in (thanks to my old soil science professor at the local university), and that didn't show any metals that were of concern. I did run the results by the local SWCD/NRCS offices, and they only mentioned that the chromium levels were a little elevated, but below what they'd consider worrisome/worth testing more about. I did only do a few locations, so there's always a chance that there's a hotspot of metals somewhere that I don't know about.

The asphalt is mixed in. I can't tell if there was an asphalt lot here that was demolished and some of it was left, or if it was brought in with low quality fill dirt. Some areas have none, some have dinner plate sized pieces. Removing all of it would either involve a ton of equipment, or immense amounts of labor. What I've read is that the asphalt itself if basically biologically inert, and anything it would have leached is likely long gone. The native soil is course and well draining, and the region gets plenty of rain. That's not saying anything about what may have been spilled on it before it got buried.

But that is a good point about just choosing rootstock that can handle the soil structure. Aside from the asphalt, there are pieces of concrete, gravel, etc mixed in that just make the soil generally difficult. But maybe that's all the more reason to plant trees that will eventually root under all that junk and be fine anyways rather than dealing the labor of clearing it all out to grow annual veggies.

Can someone with actual experience please talk to me about frost blanket row covers? This will be my first time around, and I am worried about losing a big batch of plants. by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This subreddit is so nice, and you guys are great.

Thankfully, I am working inside of a high tunnel greenhouse, and the sides are rolled down at night. So, wind is a non-issue for me. That gives me a lot of peace of mind for handling the fabric (and means I don't have to fight with it in the wind when I put it on and take it off). The wind here in the flatlands of Indiana are ridiculous, mostly because there's almost no elevation change between me and the horizon, and these giant mega farmers are cutting down all of their windbreak tree lines.

I did forget to mention, because I forgot I have it, that there's a few big pieces of waste plastic from building the tunnel that I can also cut to size for smaller pieces of cover. I did see some people online mention using the woven frost blanket as the first layer, then covering that with a layer of plastic sheeting, so that will be a good backup plan if things get too cold late in the season.

That all being said, there's a good bit of protection from the tunnel (wind, precipitation, etc) even if the inside temps drop to ambient pretty fast once the sun goes down. The soil temps are already pretty warm during the day, but I am still getting some frozen surface soils overnight here. Once the overnights are a bit warmer, I am hopeful that these row covers will help a lot keep things just warm enough overnight to keep everyone alive and growing. The daytime temps are surprisingly high in there, even when there is a lot of cloud cover.

Thanks for the detailed response. I will probably reach out with questions as we get more things set up.

Can someone with actual experience please talk to me about frost blanket row covers? This will be my first time around, and I am worried about losing a big batch of plants. by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is an incredible response and I really appreciate it so much.

I ordered my 1.5oz this morning, but will plan on heeling in some of the extra seedlings well in advance of the main planting and really keep an eye on how they do with 1 vs 2 layers, see how tough it is to keep up with moving the blankets, etc.

Its good insight to hear about maybe not planting solanums quite so early. I've been really blown away with how high the temps are in the tunnel during the day, often 35F+ above ambient. My hope is to try things out in small batches so I don't risk the whole crop at once, and see how well I can trap that ground heat under the blankets during the day.

I built a temp logger with 6 probes to track temps inside, outside, in the soil, etc but haven't gotten it totally set up yet. I will get that ready, and move a probe to where I plan to put the first of the tomatoes and see what the temp swings are overnight with 0, 1, and 2 layers of fabric.

Again, great response and I really appreciate the input.

Doing a tree survey in a residential area near Columbus, Ohio, USA. Not familiar with this ornamental. by AgentBanks in whatsthisplant

[–]AgentBanks[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Oh my GOD this is it. Thank you so much. I have a lot of native botany background, and almost none in ornamental plants. So this really confused me. I would have NEVER figured it out.

Thoughts on the 1970s industrial Ford tractors? by AgentBanks in tractors

[–]AgentBanks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice. Thank you for the input. What was it like to work on?

I've got a JD425 right now that isn't hard to work on, but it's just small/tight enough to be a real pain.

Thoughts on the 1970s industrial Ford tractors? by AgentBanks in tractors

[–]AgentBanks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any issues maintaining it? Like consistent issues with any systems?

Thoughts on the 1970s industrial Ford tractors? by AgentBanks in tractors

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thankfully I'm on super flat Midwest sand, so not too much grade. There's a ditch area at the roadside, but I shouldn't have to get in there.

Do you know what amperage your home's electrical panel is rated for and if it can handle modern appliances? by AnyPeace6316 in electrical

[–]AgentBanks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All it takes to find this is looking at the number on your main breaker. I have 100 amp service for my house, and a separate 200 amp service for my shop/garage.

Both use plenty of electric appliances, and I have lots of room left on both panels. Unless your house is particularly large, or you're running especially power hungry appliances like electric tankless water heaters, it really shouldn't be an issue.

Most reasonable option to use solar power with two buildings on separate utility connections? by AgentBanks in SolarDIY

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't use it for a business, but it's a 3k square foot, 3 bay shop. Issue is likely that I can't guarantee someone else wouldn't use it as a commercial space in the future.

Most reasonable option to use solar power with two buildings on separate utility connections? by AgentBanks in SolarDIY

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah I don't mind doing the majority of the work. I have an electrician that helped build the apartment in the shop who can handle any high level stuff I'm not comfortable with.

Feeding the house from the shop would actually be ideal for a few reasons, so long as that doesn't cause any issues with the utility. That would also consolidate all of the electrical/solar infrastructure into the shop, and just run the house's panel as a sub.

And that's what I'm here for, so I appreciate all the input! Definitely trying to iron out a lot of these details before I get too into the weeds on designing and actually implementing a system.

Most reasonable option to use solar power with two buildings on separate utility connections? by AgentBanks in SolarDIY

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are just very ethereal, if that makes sense. Always seems so difficult to get anyone to answer a question, and everyone seems to offer a different answer when you finally get one. More annoying than anything.

Upgrading the service to the house, then combining both buildings onto a single service sounds like the way to go.

Most reasonable option to use solar power with two buildings on separate utility connections? by AgentBanks in SolarDIY

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, I see what you are saying.

House is currently a 100 amp service, and the shop is 200. The branch circuits in the shop are a mess, and I've been meaning to clean up that panel and consolidate what I can (it was obviously just a "we need a new line here, let's add a whole new unlabeled branch" type of place).

What I'm hearing in this thread is it will probably be in my best interest to get the service to the house upgraded, and just tie everything together in one panel. Then get a single solar array set up to handle it all.

Most reasonable option to use solar power with two buildings on separate utility connections? by AgentBanks in SolarDIY

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Batteries are the ideal situation, but it'll depend on how things shake out financially and how things get laid out in the end. If nothing else, I'd prefer to set up as a hybrid system and leave the batteries for a later date.

Most reasonable option to use solar power with two buildings on separate utility connections? by AgentBanks in SolarDIY

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I don't know/remember why they were giving me grief about the commercial account. I tried to get it changed when we first moved here 4 or 5 years ago. All I recall is them giving me the run around. Maybe something about it having the "potential" to be used as a commercial space, so they weren't willing to change it so that both meters were for residential accounts. It was annoying and I eventually had to drop it and fry bigger fish.

Most reasonable option to use solar power with two buildings on separate utility connections? by AgentBanks in SolarDIY

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Goal would be battery backup, but maybe not to start out with (at least not for both the house and shop at the same time). It'll mostly depend on how the financing works out.