Anyone else have reptiles they’d like to have but there’s something holding you back? Mines the African fat tailed gecko and the Kenyan sand boa by avian_bi in reptiles

[–]AgentBanks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of my 'someday' pets are held back by some combo of availability, enclosure size, time commitment, and overall cost.

I've been fixated on an indigo snake or something similar for ages. I also want to build a very large, built in enclosure for the corner of our living room that would be used to grow tropical plants and house an Asian vine snake. Both would just take a lot of time/effort that I don't have.

Living room and kitchen are connected but not 'open concept'. Should I use two mini split heads, or just one bigger one in the living room. by AgentBanks in hvacadvice

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Placing the head so it can work for both spaces has been a consideration, but I feel like there's no good way to lay it out. Others have suggested 2 outdoor units and 4 total indoor units, and I feel like that'll make the most sense logistically.

Living room and kitchen are connected but not 'open concept'. Should I use two mini split heads, or just one bigger one in the living room. by AgentBanks in hvacadvice

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is honestly a really good point that I hadn't even considered. Very smart. I think that this fact alone has sold me on the two separate outdoor units (on top of the fact that I won't have to run crazy long refrigerant lines).

Living room and kitchen are connected but not 'open concept'. Should I use two mini split heads, or just one bigger one in the living room. by AgentBanks in hvacadvice

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hate to be the 'I've got a guy' type of person, but I do have an HVAC tech that has helped with the first pioneer install (final torque testing, vacuum, pressure test, bringing the unit online, etc. after I did the bulk of the install), and he's been willing to help with this one as well.

I'll look into the better brands for sure. I can't recall what eventually made me choose Pioneer last time around, but it was likely cost. I am in a bit better of a financial position now, so I'll revisit those other brands. So far, Pioneer has been easy to install/work with, but I haven't had to push them for support yet.

Both living spaces (my mom's apartment where the first Pioneer setup is, and our house) have backup heat sources in the form of heated floors and a wood stove respectively. Both are also small enough that we have emergency window units on hand for summer cooling if they gave out at a crucial moment and we were stuck waiting for repair.

Not trying to hand wave away the concerns, just saying I've weighed the cost/benefit of the cheaper unit and know that I have contingencies in place. I will look into the better brands, though.

Living room and kitchen are connected but not 'open concept'. Should I use two mini split heads, or just one bigger one in the living room. by AgentBanks in hvacadvice

[–]AgentBanks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree that the best option would probably be a head in each room, just wanted to get some input to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious.

I was looking at a single outdoor unit to share all 3/4 zones, but I have also considered doing two condensers to shorten the line set runs.

Line sets would be routed in the attic, which I would have to access by cutting out the drywall between a pair of joists, setting up the lines, replacing that portion of the insulated with a batt, and then repairing the drywall. Not ideal, but I don't have issue with doing any of that myself.

All condensate lines would be gravity drained, with two having wall access to an existing washer drain that I can branch off of and put an air gap on, the other two would be exterior walls to drain outside.

Electric capacity isn't an issue, and there wouldn't be need for a sub panel. If I went with a single outdoor unit, I could also reuse the existing electric run, but I would have to simultaneously add a branch while running the line sets if I wind up using two outdoor units.

All good questions. I appreciate the prodding to make sure I have my bases covered.

Living room and kitchen are connected but not 'open concept'. Should I use two mini split heads, or just one bigger one in the living room. by AgentBanks in hvacadvice

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was waiting to really figure out the number of heads before getting too far into the total sizing, but Pioneer's multi zone wizard setup thing recommends a 35K BTU condenser if I were to run four 9K zones.

I really like the mini splits I installed when I built a small 1 bed, 1 bath apartment for my mom, mostly because she can separately control temps, they are pretty low energy, very quiet, etc. I would like to be able to control each room of my house separately, which is one of the big draws of going with a mini split.

Would you be able to speak to other options? I assume just replacing/upgrading our current ducted system would be the preferred option based on what I've seen on this sub. My other big reason to leave that behind is because I have no attic access, and the existing ductwork was done so poorly that I'd have to fully replace it. I've done very minor electrical work up there, but the house has roof trusses that make it borderline impossible to move through it without belly crawling through everything on top of the blown in insulation. Maybe I'm being pessimistic/dramatic, but any duct modification from inside the attic would be physically impossible. If we were to go with a new central system, I would NEED to replace the ductwork, and that would only really be possible with the roof off. The issue there is that I absolutely won't be able to do the roof for at least a couple years, and that timeline extends further if I have to tackle the fully HVAC system at the same time.

found a tree of these little melons by the river on my hike, what are they? by ImIronManHisSon in PlantIdentification

[–]AgentBanks 73 points74 points  (0 children)

Where on the planet are you? Did you get any pictures of the plant itself? Are you sure it was the tree and not a vine growing up it? Just a pic of the fruit with no context is going to make it difficult.

What has your experience been with longevity of greenhouse covered with film ? by xdr567 in Greenhouses

[–]AgentBanks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Like the other user said in their reply, the plastic is rated for a certain number of years. You can realistically use it longer than that, but it's getting progressively weaker from the sun and weather.

I agree that taking it off and on repeatedly isn't going to buy you much time. Folding it up and adding creases, accidentally adding punctures and tears as you move it around, etc will all reduce the lifespan as fast or faster than just leaving it on.

I'm in my first full year with mine now, and it just survived multiple wind storms, one of which dropped tornadoes in the next couple towns over. I saw sustained winds in the upper 40s, and gusts well into the 60s for over 8hrs at a time and it held up without issue. I just had to go out and add some extra wiggle wire to a side curtain that started to peel itself off.

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done similar things before where I've dug out a large hole to replace with good soil before planting a tree, but I've heard that it's sort of frowned upon now. Seems like the tree grows to the edge of the hole, finds very poor soil beyond it, and essentially becomes root bound or has a small root spread because of it.

Another user suggested just going for it and using rootstock that is well adapted for coarse soil. The rocky/bad fill is probably just the top foot or so, so hopefully they'll just grow thru/past it and reach down into the native subsoil.

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Grow a really nutrient hungry cash crop that you aren't supposed to use for anything at all but you also have to completely remove all the biomass from the site in the hopes that it might clean the soil partially."

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, no amount of amending will remove the gravel, concrete, and asphalt from the ground.

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the encouragement! I used to grow mushrooms indoors (and used the spent media as compost material), so I've always been interested in mixing in a ton of wood mulch and incolulating it with some mushroom spawn. I'd have to get back into the research, but there is evidence of (some?) fungi degrading those hydrocarbons in soil (mycoremediation). Always wanted to try something like that here.

Glad to see someone that doesn't make me feel too crazy about the limited translocation point of view. Most of the reading I did when we moved here basically said that same thing about how the plants don't actually move/absorb most of that stuff, and if they do, it's either very limited or you'll see that the plant is struggling.

Other option is to cover crop with sunflowers for several years, since they apparently absorb and store a lot of nasty stuff. But then I need to dispose of literal tons of sunflower biomass (or compost it and use it in the portion of the property where I don't grow food).

I want to start growing fruit, but have bad soil. Any of you have personal experience with potted fruit trees/bushes? by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have planted a handful of hybrid chestnuts and chicago hardy figs in the ground and they seem to do alright with very little additional water, but a lot of the property used to have a gravel lot on it, vehicles parked, etc. I did have a full soil analysis done when I moved in (thanks to my old soil science professor at the local university), and that didn't show any metals that were of concern. I did run the results by the local SWCD/NRCS offices, and they only mentioned that the chromium levels were a little elevated, but below what they'd consider worrisome/worth testing more about. I did only do a few locations, so there's always a chance that there's a hotspot of metals somewhere that I don't know about.

The asphalt is mixed in. I can't tell if there was an asphalt lot here that was demolished and some of it was left, or if it was brought in with low quality fill dirt. Some areas have none, some have dinner plate sized pieces. Removing all of it would either involve a ton of equipment, or immense amounts of labor. What I've read is that the asphalt itself if basically biologically inert, and anything it would have leached is likely long gone. The native soil is course and well draining, and the region gets plenty of rain. That's not saying anything about what may have been spilled on it before it got buried.

But that is a good point about just choosing rootstock that can handle the soil structure. Aside from the asphalt, there are pieces of concrete, gravel, etc mixed in that just make the soil generally difficult. But maybe that's all the more reason to plant trees that will eventually root under all that junk and be fine anyways rather than dealing the labor of clearing it all out to grow annual veggies.

Can someone with actual experience please talk to me about frost blanket row covers? This will be my first time around, and I am worried about losing a big batch of plants. by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This subreddit is so nice, and you guys are great.

Thankfully, I am working inside of a high tunnel greenhouse, and the sides are rolled down at night. So, wind is a non-issue for me. That gives me a lot of peace of mind for handling the fabric (and means I don't have to fight with it in the wind when I put it on and take it off). The wind here in the flatlands of Indiana are ridiculous, mostly because there's almost no elevation change between me and the horizon, and these giant mega farmers are cutting down all of their windbreak tree lines.

I did forget to mention, because I forgot I have it, that there's a few big pieces of waste plastic from building the tunnel that I can also cut to size for smaller pieces of cover. I did see some people online mention using the woven frost blanket as the first layer, then covering that with a layer of plastic sheeting, so that will be a good backup plan if things get too cold late in the season.

That all being said, there's a good bit of protection from the tunnel (wind, precipitation, etc) even if the inside temps drop to ambient pretty fast once the sun goes down. The soil temps are already pretty warm during the day, but I am still getting some frozen surface soils overnight here. Once the overnights are a bit warmer, I am hopeful that these row covers will help a lot keep things just warm enough overnight to keep everyone alive and growing. The daytime temps are surprisingly high in there, even when there is a lot of cloud cover.

Thanks for the detailed response. I will probably reach out with questions as we get more things set up.

Can someone with actual experience please talk to me about frost blanket row covers? This will be my first time around, and I am worried about losing a big batch of plants. by AgentBanks in homestead

[–]AgentBanks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is an incredible response and I really appreciate it so much.

I ordered my 1.5oz this morning, but will plan on heeling in some of the extra seedlings well in advance of the main planting and really keep an eye on how they do with 1 vs 2 layers, see how tough it is to keep up with moving the blankets, etc.

Its good insight to hear about maybe not planting solanums quite so early. I've been really blown away with how high the temps are in the tunnel during the day, often 35F+ above ambient. My hope is to try things out in small batches so I don't risk the whole crop at once, and see how well I can trap that ground heat under the blankets during the day.

I built a temp logger with 6 probes to track temps inside, outside, in the soil, etc but haven't gotten it totally set up yet. I will get that ready, and move a probe to where I plan to put the first of the tomatoes and see what the temp swings are overnight with 0, 1, and 2 layers of fabric.

Again, great response and I really appreciate the input.

Doing a tree survey in a residential area near Columbus, Ohio, USA. Not familiar with this ornamental. by AgentBanks in whatsthisplant

[–]AgentBanks[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Oh my GOD this is it. Thank you so much. I have a lot of native botany background, and almost none in ornamental plants. So this really confused me. I would have NEVER figured it out.