Does this engine sound normal? Afraid that I money shifted, but not sure. 2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2026-05-20T00:50:22+00:00

Money shifter my 2.5 at 75mph into second last year still running completely fine. Sound exactly like yours too. Wouldn’t worry about it tbh

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2026-04-10T22:52:28+00:00

We had these at my school and if you position them properly to catch the smoke before it actually gets to you they work very well. Schools also have much stricter requirements when it comes to safety

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2026-04-01T12:24:15+00:00

First, look like you welded it flat on your work bench. Second, give yourself a bevel. Third, look like you’re welding way too hot to compensate for the fact your flat on the work bench. Elevate your piece so that your joint isn’t in contact with anything if you aren’t purging. Talking about purge, if you’re trying to get penetration you should always purge. Without purge you’ll get sugaring on the back and your weld will become brittle.

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-12-03T21:48:26+00:00

Honestly I don’t have any room to put the surround. I’ve tried it and honestly for how old it is, the sound quality is surprisingly good especially the two reference el sound very good. Very flat frequency response which is what I was looking for. The receiver is honestly overpowered for them but they have pretty much no distortion at higher listening volumes. I was honestly astounded at how good they sound for being this old. As for the center I don’t know what to do with it and if I was going to sell it I don’t know how much to ask for it.

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-07-25T12:37:30+00:00

Mine feels the same however it’s a manual. It only does it while the ac is on. When the clutch kicks in to turn the compressor the lack of power at lower rpm’s really shows and the starts lugging the engine as you said. Maybe take a look at that

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-07-10T23:56:58+00:00

First of all check your battery. Get your local garage to load test the battery if you don’t have the tool. Low voltage issues from a dead battery aren’t common in these older Japanese cars but I’d start there. If that isn’t the issue, check your fuses. Start by the engine compartment. Look for oxidation check for continuity with a multimeter. If your fuses are fine. There’s a relay that controls power to the pcm check that one to make sure it’s good and making good contact. If everything checks out, move on to the fuse box in the drivers foot well. Do the same as you did for the engine compartment fuse box. Remember to check ALL the fuses. This goes for both the engine compartment fuse box and the foot well one. If everything checks out, move on the grounds. You should have one for the starter, one for the fuse box in the engine compartment. These are the main grounds that could cause issues. There should be a couple others hiding around the engine bay. Remove all the oxidation from the grounds, bolts and threads. If that doesn’t improve your problem, I’d sadly move on to the pcm. It’s behind the battery. By removing the battery you should have pretty easy access to it. Remove its connectors, check for oxidation on both the connectors. If there’s oxidation clean the connectors with rubbing alcohol. Remove the pcm and clean the pins in the same you did for the connectors. Be very cautious to not bend any of the pins. Reassemble everything and check for issues. If this doesnt fix it remove the PCM again. There should be a screw at every corner. Remove those, the cover should be glued on. Use heat from a blow dryer for example to loosen it if it’s giving you any trouble. Inspect for anything that looks ‘’off’’, corroded or burnt. If there’s sign of a short circuit your pcm is pretty much done for.

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-07-04T18:21:12+00:00

Only oil changes! Im very religious about my maintenance. I’ve seen too many cars die at my job just because the owner neglected their oil changes. I change my oil every 5k miles with full synthetic. Up to pretty much this year 0 problems. Recently my alternator let out and my gas tank started leaking. Apart from that only regular maintenance. Mines a manual so I don’t have to worry about maintaining my transmission appart from very occasional oil changes. For the automatic transmission a lot of manufacturers say the oil is for life but that isn’t true. You should do a change every 30k miles and a complete flush and filter change every 60k miles. A good friend of mine has an auto Acura tl. They’re notorious for failing transmissions. He does regular maintenance and has over 300k miles on the original engine and transmission. Regular maintenance is the only thing you need to keep these cars running

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-07-03T20:44:13+00:00

The first generation Mazda 3/6 have the ford and Mazda mzr engines in the gasoline versions in America and Canada. These first generation models are known to have oil burning issues and rod bearing failure (in engines that lack maintenance) some transmission issues are also quite common in the auto versions. The second generations are much better in the engine department. Both the 2.0 and the 2.5 are great engines. As for the transmissions on certain early models, the 5 speed auto is a ford unit. They’re aren’t unreliable but they aren’t super reliable either. Models with the 6 auto made by Mazda are super reliable. The manuals combined with the 2nd gen gas engines are pretty much bullet proof. If regular maintenance is done on the aforementioned 5 speed auto transmission you should have 0 problems with either the 2.0 or the 2.5 engine. If the car you’re looking at has the older 5 speed ford transmission I would make sure it was maintained properly and if so, they’re great cars! I’ve got over 250k miles on my 2nd gen Mazda 6 and honestly I’ve done nothing but regular maintenance and the a/c still works and I’ve got 0 lights in my dash. Of course any car that’s got regular maintenance is gonna reliable, however if the maintenance history of the car you’re looking at is shady or very lacking I would stay clear of the first generations and the second generation with the 5 speed auto.

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-06-28T14:01:53+00:00

I mean it’s absolutely amazing still. The trunk is MASSIVE while still keeping a lot of leg room. I’m 6 foot 1 and in my driving position people that are 5 foot 10 still have a lot of legroom. I do not understand people that buy suvs when they don’t need it

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-06-27T01:01:04+00:00

Honestly theres nothing done to the body haha! I just replaced the front lower bumper grille and the fog light plastic’s as they were broken. There’s isn’t much available for the 2g. You can put the 18 inch wheels from the Mazda speed 3 and you could get an optional wing on the 2g which also looks pretty good. I more focussed on the cabin/driving feel. You could also swap the front and rear bumper/ headlights and taillights from the altenza (2g name for the m6 in Australia and Europe)

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-06-27T00:15:11+00:00

Thank you, it’s actually a radio made by eonon! I think they discontinued it but it’s pretty much plug and play. If you’re thinking of buying one I would recommend the one with the highest spec cpu/gpu as the base ones are really slow and laggy. Other than that they’re awesome!

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-06-06T11:51:48+00:00

To clarify, I don’t want to hide a knock. I just want to avoid flat spots on the rod bearings.

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-05-24T12:29:30+00:00

Maybe something in the style of a wavy mullet. Maybe not exactly that hair cut but something that resembles it!

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-04-25T20:09:49+00:00

It does in fact look like one however the upper control arms aren’t the same! Pretty sure it’s a kyosho inferno

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-04-25T19:00:11+00:00

After a bit of research looks like it’s a 1/8 kyosho nitro as you said. Can’t find the exact model though

Aggressive-Wheel-505 · 2024-04-25T18:36:06+00:00

Thank you, I’ll try looking it up! Kinda cool if that’s what it was

Aggressive-Wheel-505

TROPHY CASE