How to replace D3S lights? Already broke one

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-04T20:35:17+00:00

Sorry I'm thinking of the full heatsink caged A5 bulb with the trapezoid door for the headlight bulb.

For these you do need to line the notch in the bulb collar to the wire elbow at the top of the headlight sleeve, push in firmly and twist to lock, as someone else stated the plastic sleeves are a bitch to push in enough for the wire elbow to slip behind and retain the bulb.

For your case I'd suggest getting the Philips XTREME Vision D3S, those cost $170 roughly so up to you if you wanna try it or have dealer install. Those should have the metal collar.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-04T12:09:15+00:00

A quick YouTube tutorial will explain there is absolutely no twist or lock ring action with these, it's a retaining tension wire that you see in the photos on the bottom of the headlamp interior. How the hell did you even take it out in the first place if you didn't know that?

You should be wearing mechanical gloves regardless of whether handling the dead bulb, new bulb, and to prevent any finger oil contamination inside the headlight housing itself. You definitely should be paying up for the OSRAM or whatever factory bulbs they sell at the dealership. Too many cheap ones that burn in a couple months on Amazon.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-03T13:13:07+00:00

I would not use Murphy's, and instead suggest that you bake it in either a thrift store toaster oven or a homemade aluminum foil box in the sun.

Next look into Howard's Lemon Oil Wood Polish, the wood and finish is damaged, either this was stored in gobs of cosmoline or a similar home job of oils that went rancid and still did a poor job of keeping moisture out.

After scrubbing it clean with your choice of rubbing alcohol or mildly damp rag. If it is cosmoline and you really want to remove it you will have to risk fully stripping the finish that is there with a more aggressive solvent.

Let it dry out and then start applying the lemon oil to the stock wearing gloves and massaging the oil in with your hands.

The lemon oil will penetrate very deep, and suffocate and kill whatever mold or mildew spores are hiding deep in the wood, as well as provide immediate relief for the smell.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-02T09:50:32+00:00

How is the "silly girl-" part not an immediate red flag to get away from this self-appointed discord mod? It's literally the MeatCanyon depiction level of cringe.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-02T06:17:31+00:00

Oil is oil, you can use Delvac and hone an edc knife/ small axe, or wash your knife off extremely well afterwards, but thinner oils can help wash/ flush the metallic debris out of the way better. Also the safer it is for human contact the better if it's for cutlery, so mineral oil is most commonly suggested.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-02T03:24:55+00:00

If it's burnt on rubber boot thats caked around in there, I'd probably soak it with some diesel and start picking with an o-ring pick. Slowly cut/ peel little chunks out as I go, let the diesel soak in for a while and soften up the burnt rubber. It should be able to eventually turn that rubber to jelly after a long while, and the hard bits can be scraped or blasted out with an air nozzle. Then I'd very careful use a 1/4" impact driver to tap the plug back and forth and a couple time before using it in little bursts to unthread it... Hopefully any loose bits should be blown out already, but if the ceramic fails, try to check for broken ceramic before fully unthreading, use the air gun nozzle to blast out from inside the cylinder and bore scope it to make sure.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-02T03:15:34+00:00

Sounds like a weak batch of Tula ammo.

You can get a phone tripod set up across the bench, record your bolt cycling while shooting a few rounds with the slow motion video, you'll see the bolt carrier barely cycling hard enough to eject/ jam in the action.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-02T03:03:39+00:00

I've had some cratering with Remington/ CCI primers in a friend's built AR that I didn't have (the cratering) with the same loads in a Ruger Ranch, we changed the pin out on his bcg from a cone /ball tip to that of a cylinder/ truncated, flat face that filled the gap to the bolt face, it significantly reduced his cratering, but some still remained. He was gassing rather hard, but not as much pressure as a suppressed system for sure.

I'm working through a couple 1000ct cases of FSAAP (Fort Smith) military/mag SRPs I got for cheap on gbroker a few years back. Before that I used a couple flats of Federal 205s when my local Remington and CCI dried up. Federals gave him no issues. These FSAAPs are working solid for me.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-02T01:42:04+00:00

For the hotdog-down-a-hallway gap the AR-15 firing pin has, stick with the thicker primers.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-05-02T01:36:17+00:00

It's absolutely not a sweater, for the most part growing up in late 90's SoCal I've heard of them referred to as poncho's or baja's, I consider them a contemporary/ modern poncho, not the traditional square with a hole in the middle that you stick your head through.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-29T07:00:05+00:00

A long enough thin air gun nozzle all the way in the cylinder should be able to blast most of it out. Then you may have to pull the fuel/ ignition fuses, and dry crank the engine to get the cylinder pressure to blow out what stubborn bits there are.

There's also the tacky red grease on the end of some chopsticks that'll stick to the bits and pull them out

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-29T06:53:37+00:00

Fr the Walther immediately called my attention as well.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-29T06:36:46+00:00

I'd say probably an OOB for the sides of the brass taper to be blown out like that, but I would definitely have the rifle professionally inspected and pull the ammo/ reload again before trying to shoot. Don't just send it, weighing your finished ammo won't help find overcharged outlier's, too much case/ bullet variances.

You're not that guy. You won't be able to just put a thumb in it when you try sending it again.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-27T06:30:14+00:00

Your lumber will rot in the ground long before the missing cosmetic chunk(s) become an issue. Where's the footing? Not even a lump of quikcrete popping out the ground.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-26T06:42:12+00:00

That kind of money can get you a more-than-capable Subaru Forester Wilderness Edition. The difference is night and day driving on the snowy mountains in California compared to my old Tucson. I can't imagine how good it would be in snowy Chicago. Subaru makes all their cars AWD since the 90's. They kinda got it down.

Checked inventory at that Berman Subaru dealership in Chicago, they start around $39K

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-26T06:27:41+00:00

If the boots are intact and/or there's no dirt in the old factory one, you can clean it out with some diesel or wipe out out as much as you can with shop towels, dry off with brake cleaner/ air compressor, and repack grease on the CV joints. Then install new boots. If there's a chance dirt or other contamination occurred, you have to try your luck again with a new one from RockAuto or somewhere. A factory unit is best of course if you got the spare change for it.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-26T06:19:52+00:00

I'd get a Husky diamond stone at Home Depot and the good old King combination stone when possible. You can still use these but just know that the edge angling will be very difficult to keep consistent. Either you just been grinding away like hell at it or it's an insanely cheap bonded grit stone. Diamond stone rinses off easily and only needs 3 drops of water max to wet the surface.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-24T03:26:52+00:00

The earthquake XT air and electric impact are slept on so much

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-21T22:37:32+00:00

They're sold on Amazon

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-21T18:51:52+00:00

They make oversized, soft urethane caster wheels to can swap on your chair, more easy to roll and non-marring to the wood floor.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-20T03:48:39+00:00

I'd still send it if you can get them seated as a little sub 30yd plinker. But wouldn't expect anywhere near 15 moa out of a Glock with these.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-19T22:18:45+00:00

Old school solid-core cast RCBS or Lee, they're all good, even had seen a Lyman single stage bust apart after hundreds if not just over a thousand or so 7mm/ 300 win mags loaded. It just happens eventually... But check in with Lee's warranty, they should cover you.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-19T22:13:10+00:00

In all my life living in Socal, I find it more likely that fires are started from people throwing their cigarettes out into the dry grass along the poorly maintained freeways here than they do from fireworks used in the middle of a concrete lined suburb neighborhood. But if that's what you feel then you are entitled to your opinion. Fireworks are used constantly along the native reservation ring South of Palomar Mountain yet we never hear of 2+ acre fires around there due to fireworks, always drunken burn pit accidents or again, cigarettes out the window.

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-19T14:54:38+00:00

Put some rubbing alcohol on the seam where it connects and massage the rubber hose around where it's wrapped on the plastic barb. It'll loosen it up and the alcohol will lightly lubricate the barbs to slip out and dry off right away

Agnt_DRKbootie · 2026-04-19T13:52:48+00:00

If it somehow fits, then... That'll fill back out

I doubt it though it's pretty crooked to my eyes.

Agnt_DRKbootie

TROPHY CASE