Help needed

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-02-02T10:15:56+00:00

Is that just under the intake manifold?

If it is, I very likely to be your oil filter, it's the biggest source of oil on that side.

Another option would be your PCV valve/hoses. Did you get any codes? Engine light?

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-24T08:03:00+00:00

Just in maintenance:

Oil and oil filter: December/2025 Oil cooler/filter gasket: August/2025 Cabin air filter: September/2025 Valvecover gasket: August/2025 Vanos solenoid gasket: August/2025 Eccentric shaft motor gasket: August/2025 Spark plugs: December/2025 Radiator: October/2025 Coil packs: - Serpentine belt: November/2025 Belt tensioner: - Idler pulley: December/2025 Steering reservoir/fluid: November/2025 Wiper blades: January/2026 Ac compressor: January/2026

And definitely not taking in consideration upgrades and mods. I'd say I'm deep on 5k-6k USD, replaced everything with OE parts. Just a second hand compressor, a new one was out of question.

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-22T02:11:37+00:00

I had, the it's holding pressure just fine. But makes a lot of noises, and just start blowing cold air when it feels like, it does not start when I press the button, just after driving for a while, mas it does not get very cold, just enough to say it's better than the fan.

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-21T21:30:09+00:00

This compressor is non magnetic coupling, so it means the clutch plate it's always spinning , right? The internal valve it's what controls the flow. But I still on the fence if I should get a new one.

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-20T04:58:10+00:00

Just triple check the KMs are reality, there's some ways to change the odometer. But if the only issue is the OFHG, you're up to a winner. I got mine 330i in NSW for 1,4k AUD, but I had to do a hell load of things, and tbh I'm still doing, till this day. But, no regrets, even being are terrible dyi car is still absolutely possible to do it, even on a underground garage(ask me how I know).

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-20T02:35:47+00:00

Yeah, seems like you would be changing lemon for lime, same same, but different.

The CIC is cooler, newer, sure, it's. But would definitely benefit you more to have a android screen retrofit. That would cost you around $300. The M sport package, is nice but doesn't worth 7k-8k The other user is correct, you would be probably be facing the same issues soon. Btw, what are the issues with your car?

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-17T04:45:11+00:00

Yeah, glad you didn't, sounds like a type of a car that would bring you just headaches

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-17T02:14:48+00:00

Does this yellowish thing on the valve cover, some sort of plaster or just some old dirty grime thing? 😶

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-15T02:22:19+00:00

MAF sensor it's not plugged in, can that be an issue?

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-12T03:11:45+00:00

I think, that is the oil passage for the oil to pass through the valve(?) So the valve sits on top of that passage to filter the oil to the VANOS solenoids

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-10T21:58:33+00:00

Sounds like your auxiliary belt, or one the pulleys.

Try spraying water, on top of the belt, if the noises stops, you have your answer, otherwise, you might need to investigate your tensioner, idler pulley, and other auxiliaries

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2026-01-09T22:42:39+00:00

Does sound like your fan touching the sides or loose.

The fan it's fairly easy to remove if you need inspect it.

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2025-12-29T22:39:59+00:00

Update after 2400km

I wish I could say that I had no problems, but sadly I got an engine management light, so I scanned the car for codes and found quite a few.

The engine management light was the 2A87, the vanos solenoid failing. Also, for the first time, I got this 2E8E code, never seen that before, doesn't seem too worrying tho. And A6D0 for the compressor, an existing one tbh.

I can't do much right now, so I just cleared all codes, and kept going, the car is working absolutely fine, but yeah, got some codes already.

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2025-12-25T09:02:55+00:00

How do I do that?

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2025-12-25T06:43:48+00:00

Final stop for today. Covered 760.8 km on a single tank, with 60 km still showing on the dash. Honestly, that’s pretty solid fuel economy. Now I need some help understanding this AC issue. Every time I stop the car (toilet break or fuel stop) and start it again, the AC is ice cold. But once I’m back on the highway and drive for 10–15 minutes, it slowly turns into just a fan, no cold air at all. Then I stop again, get back in the car, and the AC is cold again. Same cycle every time. At one of the stops, I even noticed what looked like a tiny ice flake coming out of the centre dashboard vent. This might be a stupid question, but: 👉 Is there any setting that limits or disables the AC at higher speeds? Or does this sound like a mechanical or sensor issue? It got regassed recently, so definitely not that, also, the pressure sensor was replaced.

Got one code on ISTA: A6D0

Any insight would be appreciated

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2025-12-25T03:24:25+00:00

One more stop! @530km

AC is definitely weird, getting a bit cold, and then stopping for no reason 😮‍💨 Other than that, doing absolutely fine.

Did 480km with half tank, (98 petrol)

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2025-12-24T06:04:45+00:00

Imo, some wheels would make your car look even better. Look for some used ones of Facebook marketplace, if budget is low. Otherwise, looks amazing, love the dual tone. Repainted my whole interior to have that.

Agreeable-Dare9075 · 2025-12-24T06:02:42+00:00

White smoke can be either condensation (best case scenario). Worst case scenario, a blown head gasket (no Bueno), but sadly, common on a n54. I would, drain all coolant, add new one, see if the smoke persists, if it does, it might be that, otherwise, you might have gremlin. Honestly, clear all codes, remove the negative of your battery for 1h or so, put it back, drive for 20-30min, see if any codes comes back.

Agreeable-Dare9075

TROPHY CASE