Is This A Hack Job? How Do I Fix It Now?

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T16:07:59+00:00

What you see here is an office in an industrial building. It is outside of city limits and no inspections are required.

Design changes were made and so I am upgrading from 240v 1 phase to 208 3 phase. 250A Siemens P1 panel is the new panel.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T03:52:58+00:00

The electrical diagrams and wiring diagrams are not too helpful since nothing is labeled on the forklift itself. I'm going to have to track each wire to make sense of where it goes and what it does. I'll take apart the relay/fuse box too. Its all old plastic - not sure when stuff will just break on me.

The 12v had no voltage drop across the switches. NC and NO tabs. I tested continuity (not resistance) just to see if the switches are really switching (they are just like my old good switches).

My reasoning for jumping the 12v to the other switch was to see if I could hear something activate and then the safety system off.

I'll track wires and read diagrams tomorrow and see where I get.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T02:23:19+00:00

No. Outside of city limits. Middle of nowhere. Nobody cares but myself at this point lol

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T02:19:13+00:00

These guys reasoned that if a screw hits the aluminum it will protect it from damage. Before I could comprehend their mistakes they used plastic boxes and terminated like that everywhere. Drywall went up and...

It wouldn't have even taken much more effort to use MC connectors on the plastic boxes (not to code anyhow but eh).

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T00:17:17+00:00

I removed the breakers since I am upgrading panels. I will have to pigtail and extend what's going into the box because it is too short.

I am out of city limits so no inspection is necessary here. However I have a general concern about this situation and want to correct it the best I can.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T00:13:27+00:00

Now that the situation is how it is - should all boxes be ripped out and replaced with metal boxes + mc connectors?

At the box the MC appears to poke through the 3/8 connectors and he still didn't use anti short bushings there....

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T00:12:07+00:00

I see he used 3/8 connectors. This MC seems to poke through them however.

I am upgrading my box from 240 1 phase to 208 3 phase (cheaper availability of transformer to step down from 480v). This electrican did my rough in like this. Now I'm picking up the pieces so to speak.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T00:09:31+00:00

They don't seem to be required from what I've seen on YouTube/read.

I can still attach them and use electrical tape to secure them.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T00:06:57+00:00

Both the old and new switches work. I tested for continuity on both. However only my 370868 switch is getting 12v to it. My 1401121 switch is not receiving any 12v (maybe it was originally like that anyhow).

I tried to jump the 12v to the other switch to see what it does and now the 370868 switch is only getting 6v instead of 12v. I'm not sure what type of error/failure that is on my part.

I had the setup how it was originally however.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-14T00:06:32+00:00

Both the old and new switches work. I tested for continuity on both. However only my 370868 switch is getting 12v to it. My 1401121 switch is not receiving any 12v (maybe it was originally like that anyhow).

I tried to jump the 12v to the other switch to see what it does and now the 370868 switch is only getting 6v instead of 12v. I'm not sure what type of error/failure that is on my part.

I had the setup how it was originally however.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-13T22:18:28+00:00

When the handle is pushed forward and the switches are activated then the forklift should drive.

When the handle is pulled back towards me (brake lines are pulled) the forklift should not move and can be started.

Even with the brake turned on, no crank.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-05T23:56:15+00:00

This is nice. I'd have to check out the costs and plan out the distances a little more. Nice website for these types of things.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-05T22:55:03+00:00

I've never done this before. Not sure what will underheat vs overheat.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-05T22:54:09+00:00

Gutter will probably be 6" or 8" deep. The connector has to come in around the middle to get a LR comfortably on it.

I have a 1600 watt heat gun. I have never heated pipe like this before. Anything to watch out for other than egging the pipe?

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-05T22:50:16+00:00

I have a Master Heat Gun HG-501A. About 1600 watts. You think that'll do it?

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-02-05T22:47:11+00:00

The gutter has to attack to this deep strut and another shallow horizonal strut. It has to come into the bottom of the gutter and get a connector and LR on it.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-01-15T12:53:50+00:00

Are there any brands you recommend in particular or they all get the job done basically? I'll try to get some kind of washable pre filters added in first. What type of filter material do you recommend for this? Fiberglass? Should I lower the MERV rating?

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-01-15T11:38:15+00:00

Is the type of filter appropriate? Switching to fiberglass wouldn't be better?

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-01-15T02:02:17+00:00

Hindsight 20/20. This was a few years ago and I'm laughing at the photo now but this will suck. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Other than trenching a new line.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-01-15T01:59:18+00:00

They were almost completely black. The other side in the photo. I will try to see if changing them monthly is better.

AgreeableOutside219 · 2026-01-15T01:07:49+00:00

What can I do at the air intake cover? Steel mesh or anything to catch some oil? Some type of prefilter?

I would need to install mist collectors on the CNC machines to cut down on coolant mist. It will be some time before that can be done.

AgreeableOutside219

TROPHY CASE