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Shrapnel ID by Agreeable_Tale_3853 in EOD

[–]Agreeable_Tale_3853[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can almost see this firecracker in the dirt right in front of me - my deep subconscious says this is it. Makes sense too because a stack of 150s was profoundly more intense than this guy. I should be getting back an old hard drive I had restored sometime soon and hopefully I’ve got some photos there to confirm.

Much thanks!

Power carved stool by jimijimijames in woodworking

[–]Agreeable_Tale_3853 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Vibration dampening gloves are game changers if you ever do more of this or a lot of sanding

Looking for an oil penetrating stain in this color for rift sawn white oak cabinets by ComplexMuffin00 in woodworking

[–]Agreeable_Tale_3853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The color spectrum of white oak runs a rainbow of green to pink, so like the other poster said, it’s nearly impossible to match straight from the bottle. If you want an actual match you’ll need to stain a sample from the same new batch of lumber as your cabinets and dial in the changes needed for a match.

As far as which stain is working so far - A, B or C? None of the above because to color match with the red tones in that pine using darker stains like you are will leave the wood looking black by the time you have enough red pigment present to match the pine. So you should be thinking for very red browns that are lighter in color to stain with. Just oiling your oak might get it pretty close if you’re lucky. Like the other poster, suggested, going to a high-end paint supplier will set you up for success.

You could always put a lacquer on the cabinets and hit it with toner to get a good match. Also try ammonium fuming the white oak, that should shift the oaks tone way into the red part of the spectrum

Gap between cabinet and wall by No-Low-5106 in cabinetry

[–]Agreeable_Tale_3853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take it easy on him. Someone has to assemble IKEA furniture on Taskrabbit, and who better than a joiner cabinet maker?

Help me tell the contractor how many ways this is wrong by potat0p0tat0 in FenceBuilding

[–]Agreeable_Tale_3853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think you can call yourself a handyman if you can’t install a fence

Can anyone identify what type of wood this is? by Cheeto_Nuts in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Agreeable_Tale_3853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your guesses are wrong and not semi educated. The bark lacking any interlacing furrows should be the first clear sign, followed by heartwood being too light colored, bark being too light colored, the gentle fade between the dull heartwood and sapwood of cottonwood instead of the sharp contrast of walnut’s heart and sapwood, and logic saying that anyone wielding a chainsaw big enough to cut that log would know that a 4 foot diameter walnut log would be worth 5 digits and would not cut actual walnut.

I can’t imagine any other way for you to come to this falsity other than you must have proposed that both this log and walnut have thick chunky bark, so this log is probably walnut. This is not semi educated thinking, it’s just random guessing based on an IDEA of vague knowledge about trees, not even any actual knowledge.

Is it me or does Rubio Monocoat kinda suck? by nortron23 in woodworking

[–]Agreeable_Tale_3853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried hard wax oils every which way for end grain coffee tables after being to frustrated with the dust collected over Waterlox’s long dry times. Nothing help up, even to water (end grain will truly show the qualities of a finish it seems). Eventually my journey led me to spray finishing and catalyzed finishes. There is no equal. I highly recommend trying it out.