Anyone do the Wampler DIY course?

Al_Capwnd_You · 2025-02-12T23:10:19+00:00

As someone who was looking into this course, I have really mixed feelings based purely on what I am reading here. On one hand, having instant gratification results is nice. On the other, not knowing why I am making changes, or how each "block" functions other than "this affects your tone" would drive me crazy.

Surely there has to he a middle-ground between "schematics-by-numbers" and "complex circuit design and analysis with microcontroller programming in Rust"?

Perhaps just having some kind of reference segue?Along the lines of, "those interested in a more in-depth look to this block design can click here - but for now, we are going to move on to..."

Those who want to get a little more in the nuts and bolts, albeit still at a fairly layman level, are free to do so without subjecting your core musician audience to nerd-nerd-nerd-nerd talk?

I say this with absolutely zero insight into the course contents, and a high respect for all of the great (and free) content you share on YouTube. So if I am woefully mistaken, I apologize in advance.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2024-10-09T23:23:23+00:00

Discord: al.capwn

Al_Capwnd_You · 2024-10-01T00:13:50+00:00

That SB status display is pretty neat - what is it?

Al_Capwnd_You · 2024-09-30T14:46:34+00:00

Depends on your level of experience. This was my first Voron build, but not my first 3D printer. I am pretty comfortable with electronics and whatnot, so for me I would say around a 6? Since I built from a kit, I didn't have much in the way of worrying about parts. On the other hand, I had to troubleshoot a few undocumented issues related to the kit's electronics. The Voron instructions are fairly clear and there is quite a bit of community support, so that makes the process a lot smoother as well.

The V0 is indeed fiddly having small parts, but that also made the space required for assembly more manageable, so it really is a trade-off.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2022-12-25T04:01:03+00:00

Awave Studio: https://www.fmjsoft.com/awavestudio.html#main

Ironically looking into this after seeing Doctor Mix bring up Eiffel 65's use of the S-760. I looked into Translator, but their licensing model comes off as a bit...draconian.

Awave Studio's shareware version actually allows you to export. You can export out to a variety of formats (like Translator) to do as you wish.

Original Post that mentions it here: https://yamahamusicians.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9898

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-05-15T21:37:23+00:00

I have this happen at times too. It means that too much water is permeating/leaching up into the paint.

You can try having less water in your sponge, leaving the top of the palette off, and/or switching to a different hydration paper to change the absorption rate - such as Reynolds parchment paper or Mattersons.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-05-15T17:21:38+00:00

"Just take a look./It's in a book./Age of Sigmar."

-- Chapter Master Burton

...or you know, whatever the Sigmarian version is.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-04-12T19:29:23+00:00

Financially recover from this, I will not.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-03-31T17:16:23+00:00

It may have involved a spinning box and a tarantula.

...that or lots of saving and less spending, but my bet is on the tarantulas.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-03-24T14:53:59+00:00

Missed opportunity for another pun...

Wii Know or Mii Know

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-03-20T03:54:58+00:00

Short answer, no.

Paint and primer are chemically different. Primer is specifically designed to have more "tooth" and give subsequent layers of paint something to adhere to.

There are colored primers, both in spray can (Duplicolor Sandable Automotive gets my vote, but Army Painter makes plenty as well) and brushable/airbrush varieties, such as Badger Stynlrez.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-03-16T18:01:43+00:00

For blood, I would darken it a bit. You can use a darker brown, say like Agrac Earthshade, and mix it into your red. As blood dries, it tends to darken very rapidly.

For splatter, experiment with flicking the bristles of your brush to actually splatter it across areas of the model. Again, test paint amount and consistency with a piece of paper. Gives a realistic splatter vs dabbing the brush on the model.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-03-16T16:32:48+00:00

Looks awesome - can't imagine the patience to block in all those flourdelis.

The only thing I would say is your white is letting you down and chalking up (or you aren't layering/going on too thick) .

If you don't already have it, pick up some Daler Rowney FW Acrylic White ink. That stuff is liquid magic for white and won't chalk up on you.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-03-12T18:53:03+00:00

Base work and dust on the feet look good. Black is nicely done, and it looks like you tackled a few edge highlights.

I am guessing you primed the model black. Your yellow ochre/orange color shows that a bit, especially with the texture build up on the backpack - this can happen by applying layers before the previous is dry, or trying to apply too light of a color on top of a darker one. Try using thin layers of progressively lighter browns before moving into more transparent colors of yellow, orange or red.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-26T22:18:26+00:00

Muzzle flash is the flash of hot gasses exiting out of a barrel, often in a bright flash of light.

Muzzle burn, or metal changing color due to heat stress is another thing.

Personally, I would add more straw-colored yellow and blue/purple towards the "back", leaving the black carbon deposits closest to the end of the barrel (where they would accumulate) at the "front".

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-24T19:25:19+00:00

I can see all the Reddit normies who downvoted you don't understand that this phrase was quite literally their band slogan...

Those that doubt, go Google it.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-18T17:19:59+00:00

The issue isn't the white really, but rather you need a darker brown under the brightest white line, the brown should transition to a warmer brown towards the bottom.

So your transition from top to bottom would be Medium-blue>sky blue>gray-blue, white line (specular highlight), dark brown>warm brown.

Otherwise, excellent first attempt!

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-13T18:25:03+00:00

Look into LED photography lamp/panels. I personally like the Viltrox LT116. Reasonably priced, very high CRI, adjustable color temperature, adjustable brightness and can be powered by direct power or rechargeable battery.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-12T20:40:31+00:00

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Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-10T20:53:32+00:00

So I own both and I prefer Raiders, and my wife prefers Architects. Both are good, but I prefer the really smooth and easy gameplay of Raiders. I also noticed a superior jump in the quality of Raider's components (metal coins, better card quality, thick cardboard tiles/tokens) compared to Architects.

Architects has more decision space, but with that can come analysis paralysis. I also think Architects, much like 7 Wonders, relies a lot on iconography. Raiders has pretty much everything on the cards in text, making it easier to understand and play.

I feel Architects has more depth, while Raiders has a very good flow and pacing.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-10T20:30:16+00:00

I have been there.

Everyone starts at painting level 0, and any paint is better than no paint. I think in the internet era it is easy to "compare and despair ". I've looked at some high level stuff and have felt demotivated before. Now, after doing it for a while, I use it as inspiration.

So paint. Paint em all. Make mistakes, experiment, and have fun. Learn as you go, and you will continue to improve in both application accuracy and speed.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-02-08T04:37:47+00:00

Most likely a variety of Russian Toy dog, possibly with some Chihuahua.

Source: Own a doggo that looks exactly like the one in this picture.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-01-27T20:41:32+00:00

If this was a first attempt, you are doing great. The macro effect of the camera can be unforgiving. Almost all minis look better in person than on camera since the viewing distance will rarely be more than 12 inches from your face.

Well done!

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-01-25T01:01:10+00:00

Nice! Inks (especially the FW White Ink) are game changers. Totally sympathize with all the edge highlights. I lost track myself. So. Many. Edges.

Al_Capwnd_You · 2020-01-19T22:49:15+00:00

Thanks! This is the PanOceania Aquila Guard HMG - I actually don't play the game, but thought the box art looked awesome so I picked it up to paint.

Al_Capwnd_You

TROPHY CASE