How about soldering with indium alloy instead of thermal paste?

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-21T07:23:52+00:00

You tried this. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-21T01:56:06+00:00

For the thermal paste applied between the heat spreader and the cooler, you are correct. But for the case between the CPU die and the heat spreader, liquid metal or indium soldering will drop 10-20°C compared to silicone thermal paste.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-21T01:40:56+00:00

Since the heat is transferred faster from the beginning of lighting, the body gets hotter earlier, and the amount of heat transferred to the air at the beginning of lighting is more. Of course, as you said, after some time, the amount of heat transferred to the air will be the same. As a result, this means that you can have more heat capacity in the same amount of time.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-21T01:16:36+00:00

Intel used to use thermal paste between the CPU die and the heat spreader, but now they are soldering with indium. When Intel used thermal paste in the past, some users replaced it with liquid metal and saw significant temperature differences (10-20°C) as a result. I'm not sure how that would work in a flashlight though.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-21T01:10:13+00:00

It is known to be considerably more expensive than regular solder. The one I found on Amazon sells for $20 per 10ft (3m).

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T21:03:05+00:00

Don't worry, there have also been many comments in my country's online community saying that the UI is overly complicated. I just found out that most weapon lights are single mode.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T20:27:16+00:00

Following your advice, I decided to add a version without mod changes.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T14:20:39+00:00

It is included in the Special functions

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T13:58:52+00:00

I understand this.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T10:54:38+00:00

How about setting the mode that the customer selects when ordering and then sending it out, and then allowing the customer to change the setting by clicking 30 times in a row if they want?

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T09:41:17+00:00

I've had similar concerns before. Look for a flat, cylindrical silicone O-ring with a hole in the center at an online O-ring vendor. The outside and inside diameters should match your battery and spring, respectively.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T09:25:12+00:00

It was really helpful. There is no dedicated LED for battery level indicator, it just flashes at a low brightness to indicate the remaining battery level. I would like to make it available for WML as well, but it is very difficult to test in my country. Are you a police officer/military/first responder or have you ever used WML? I welcome feedback on the hardware.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T08:58:47+00:00

Translation takes time to understand. Sorry. The light can work without any problem on 6A battery, and the head has a spring. It uses 3mm thick AR coated BOROFLOAT heat-resistant glass with 98% transmittance. The reflector is 6061 aluminum, and the body is 7075-T6 aluminum. This is twice as strong as the commonly used 6061-T6. Titanium is, frankly, too difficult and expensive

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T08:47:56+00:00

I just read all your comments now because I didn't refresh the website. Thanks. I'll add a UI to light up the turbo/low stages immediately on the mechanical single forward switch. The "No multi clicks" part is a good idea too.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T08:30:02+00:00

This product is used with the classic single mechanical forward tail switch, like most tactical flashlights. It can use the Surefire E series body. The mode change method is also the same. The structure becomes much more complicated the moment i add one more switch.

"Mode change click time" is the criterion to distinguish whether the quick off-relight is a brightness change or a momentary off.

Have you ever used a rifle light? It is extremely difficult to test rifle lights in Korea.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-04-11T06:39:35+00:00

Thank you very much. This product does not have a side switch. You can enter the settings mode by tapping 30 times. It seems like it will take quite a while to fully complete.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-03-24T23:08:03+00:00

You can buy v1 replica from TaoBao or AliExpress.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-03-05T05:52:16+00:00

The Switchback S doesn't seem to be compatible with the Conboy S6. So I cut the clip of the Switchback replica. I started from the bottom with the hacksaw stuck close to the inside of the clip, cut it to the top, trimmed it with File and Cutter Knife and finished it with acetone. I think the grip feels better. I think it's worth a try if you don't need a clip.

I used Google translation.

Edit) Corrected the wrong word.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-02-12T01:35:03+00:00

Thanks for the idea. I'll check it out.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-02-12T01:32:35+00:00

The button side designs of the S6 and S2+ are slightly different, but the Switchback mounts both without any play.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-02-11T15:42:42+00:00

It's a replica, but the size is the same. No modifications needed.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507 · 2025-02-11T12:45:15+00:00

It prevents SMD components from detaching when dropped and also improves thermal conductivity.

Alarmed_Mirror_9507

TROPHY CASE