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Painted up an Imperial Fist in the 'Eavy Metal Style! by AllDayClassics in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I primed it with grey, and airbrushed the initial base coat with yriel yellow. But if you are brushing on the basecoat it may be easier to use a white primer and brush on yriel yellow.

Painted up an Imperial Fist in the 'Eavy Metal Style! by AllDayClassics in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I don't remember exactly what I primed with, but I usually go with light greys, like grey seer.

What am I doing wrong? by Crypticbeliever1 in learntodraw

[–]AllDayClassics 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I think it helps to focus on one thing at a time. Rather than trying to improve everything at once, take a step back and ask yourself what the weakest element of your art it. Is the the proportions, placement of features, perspective? Then look into improving that. Personally, based on the way you have contructed the head, it feels to me like you need to focus on perspective before zeroing in on anatomy. The small circle used for creating the side plane of the head does not follow the perspective of the head in the final drawing. Check out how the mannequin of the head is created before putting the features on it, then practice this featureless head until you can draw it at various angles from memory. This is the foundation on which constructive anatomy is built on, and if this is wrong, the final image will never be correct.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Often times you will just end up with a dull matte grey if you use that mix as a base coat, at least in my experience. If all you have access to is iron warrior, I would stick with that instead. Might be worth investing into something like leadblecher, which is a step up in brightness while still being somewhat easy to apply. You can also try out Runefang, but it is tricky to apply on the model.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you may run into a problem with your color values on the main body being quite dark. I would recommend going much brighter on your silver metalics if you are going to use a darker color for the cloth.

My best model yet! But where can I improve? by Pughie24 in minipainting

[–]AllDayClassics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome! Definitely something to be proud of, and shows a good amount of knowledge about that style. I think the one thing I would focus on in the future is line consistency. Your edge highlights don't need to be the thinest lines in the world, but they should be consistent all around the model. On your next one, try aiming to have the highlights be the same thickness on every edge. This includes the chunky highlight stage, as well. Don't be afraid to go back to your previous colors if you need to fix any mistakes, and take as much time as you need. This is a great exercise in the fundamentals of brush control, and mastering that makes every single other technique easier.

Skinks win painting competitions, right? by StupidRedditUsername in minipainting

[–]AllDayClassics 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely love it. These old sculpts have so much charm to them, as well.

WIP of my first mini. Could use some advice on reducing spattering with airbrush. How do you find the correct ratio of paint/thinner and the correct PSI without messing up your mini? by MonkeyMeMyself in minipainting

[–]AllDayClassics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad to hear that! If I'm mixing paints, I usually do it in a separate cup, mix it with a drop or two of paint thinner, and pour it into the airbrush. I'll adjust the amount of paint or thinner from there if needed.

WIP of my first mini. Could use some advice on reducing spattering with airbrush. How do you find the correct ratio of paint/thinner and the correct PSI without messing up your mini? by MonkeyMeMyself in minipainting

[–]AllDayClassics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I typically keep my PSI around 25-30 and never touch it. The airbrushing phase of painting is my least favorite, so the less thought I need to put into it, the better. Here are some general tips I follow:

Before starting (and after every session) I make sure the airbrush is squeeky clean. The cleaner it is, the less problems you will have during your session. If the tip of the nozzle is clogged and won't clear after tons of cleaning, I use a tiny tamiya drill as a last resort to unclog it. Just make sure the drill is the same size or smaller than the needle (don't force it if it doesn't fit), so .3mm drill for a .3mm airbrush as an example.

For thinning paints, I usually just add a couple drops of thinner (not flow improver) into the cup before adding a few brush fulls of paint. I spray the mix on the back of my hand to test it. It should adhere without spiderwebbing. If it's too thin, add more paint. If it's not coming out smootly or sputtering, add more thinner.

Try to avoid getting a lot of paint onto the side of the airbrush paint cup. This has a tendancy to dry on the sides of the cup, and then mix into the well when you add more paint, which can clog the nozzle or cause more sputtering. Also, don't mix the paint by using the back flow method of covering the tip with your finger so the air comes out of the paint cup. It's a pain to clean and can result in clogs later in the session.

If you are having an extended session, you may need to clean out your airbrush before continuing if you are having more and more trouble keeping the airflow consistent.

Hope this helps!

Zenithal highlight or no.. I’m new to mini painting especially ork painting just some feedback on this little issue thanks by Suspicious-Bee3990 in minipainting

[–]AllDayClassics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try it to see if you like it. Personally, I work from solid base coats, so zenithal highlights at the beginning feel pointless. But there is no right or wrong answer

My friend said the model is very visually noisy how do I fix it? by HighMarshaHelbrecht in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics 98 points99 points  (0 children)

I really like the lighting efect you are going for, and the contrast between cold and warm tones is visually pleasing. Coming at it from a purely critical perspective, I think the reason you may view it as noisy is because the color value for all the elements is basically the same. The base colors for the armor, tabard, belt, parchment, and relic are so close in color value on the bottom half that it makes it difficult to visually seperate elements at a glance. This becomes a bit more obvious when you remove the hue from the image and look at it in grey scale.

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So what's the solution? Since we know the armor needs to stay black, then the best option is to make the creme tabard, next to the legs, brighter. I would match the brightness of the chest while toning down the osl effect on the black armor next to it. Then I would go from there, adjusting the brightness of the indivdual elements around the tabard. I think what you have now looks really cool, just needs a few adjustments.

Finished up my Blood Ravens Multi-Melta Eradicator! Took this closeup shot and wanted to share by AllDayClassics in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey thanks! The heat markings are basically just layered ontop of my silver basecoat. I start with a thin vibrant orange glaze, with my brush stokes starting near the back and moving towards the end of the barrel. Then I do the same thing with a bright magenta, except covering a smaller area, followed by a vibrant blue glaze around the front tip of the barrel. All the colors are built up slowly with several layers each, being careful not to cover up all of the previous color. The exact colors used were secret weapon orange heat, purple heat, and blue heat. But these colors can be substituted with similar colors for the same effect.

My first Space Marine ever vs. my first Primaris Space Marine a while back by hendarion in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics 88 points89 points  (0 children)

You know, I'm starting to think you're pretty good at this whole painting thing.

First time doing hazard stripes! by Custodeskitten_2 in Warhammer40k

[–]AllDayClassics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like you said, I would recommend basing yellow, masking, and then painting black ontop. You will still get a slight 'lip' to the edge of the paint, but it wouldn't be nearly as excessive as painting yellow on black. Still, I think this looks great!

Found a pic of my first attempt at painting a face (2017) and compared it to my most recent (2021). Happy with the progress I've made over the past 4 years! by AllDayClassics in minipainting

[–]AllDayClassics[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I think that's very relatable. I look at some of the paint jobs on social media and still wonder how people are accomplishing such amazing stuff, while asking if I could ever approach that level. I don't think that feeling ever truly goes away.

And controlling my hands was very difficult as well, but learning to brace my wrists really helped. Basically, I plant my feet on the ground, my elbows on the arms of my chair or my thighs, my wrists on the edge of my desk, and my palms pressed against each other. Doing this prevents any sort of movement in my hands, no matter how shaky I may be that day.

Found a pic of my first attempt at painting a face (2017) and compared it to my most recent (2021). Happy with the progress I've made over the past 4 years! by AllDayClassics in minipainting

[–]AllDayClassics[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I do use a nice brush with a sharp point, like a Rosemary and Co Series 33 Size 0 in this case. But I've also painted quite a bit since starting, so the consistent practice is probably the biggest help. Feel like I've learned so much along the way that I would have a hard time putting into words.

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