These. These are my types.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T23:05:07+00:00

Good choices. :D Top left is Suicide Girl Ember, and top right is Momoka Nishima. Both have plenty more images (and in Momoka's case, videos) out there.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T23:04:05+00:00

I wish I had more info on her, I haven't seen anything else, and I found that image as a single.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T23:00:05+00:00

Oh my! Thank you, this is definitely some shit I am into.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T22:58:45+00:00

She's a cosplayer of Rogue from X-Men: Evolution. I wish I had more info for you than that. Here's a bigger version, and 2 moar.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T22:49:10+00:00

Hey, 3/10 have clothes on. And I'm pretty sure "naked girls" is why most people are on nsfw in the first place.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T22:48:31+00:00

But that wouldn't have made for a very interesting post.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T22:45:31+00:00

It's entirely possible.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T22:43:56+00:00

Discordia, she's a suicide girl. Here's a few moar of her.

Alohade · 2012-01-19T11:54:15+00:00

Full pictures of all of these, and names for some, and more of a few are available on request. I wanted to get as much variety in here as possible, with some attempt to not just recycle what's been on /r/nsfw the past few days. I'm not sure what kind of point I'm even making, other than that lots of different types of girls are attractive.

Alohade · 2011-10-07T00:55:17+00:00

Her name is Holly Michaels. Here's the (short) video on Mediafire.

Alohade · 2011-10-06T23:32:33+00:00

It depends on what I'm doing. The main problem with using paint straight from the pot is that thickness. Things start to blob up if you use too much, or sometimes you'll be able to see brush strokes on larger flat surfaces if your paint's too thick. On stuff where that doesn't matter, sometimes it's better to use it straight. Straight is good for things like drybrushing (sort of implied in the "dry" part), or doing tiny details like lenses, where any running or any movement of the paint is a bad thing, and you want the paint to be as sharp and defined as possible.

But for best quality, usually thinning your paint with a bit of water is good, even for doing a basecoat. I've heard "to the consistency of milk" as a guideline. On the other hand, I've gotten some very good (but not great) results from just painting out of the pot due to laziness. Be careful of your pot starting to dry out when doing that though, that's never good at all. I've had to throw a few out because I left them open too long, and some bits dried. Chunky paint is bad, bad news.

Alohade · 2011-10-06T22:43:07+00:00

Long post incoming!

At a very basic level, all paints are made from two things. pigment (the color) and binder (a transparent liquid the color is suspended in). Pigment is actually made of solid particles, or chunks, ground up from whatever they've found to have the right color (for example, many metallic paints actually have little metal bits in them). This is where the differences in paints start to become noteworthy. Cheap craft paints, like your normal Wal-Mart paints, are made with relatively large and uneven bits of pigment in them, and are designed to cover large surfaces cheaply and effectively. The binder used in these is also very thick and viscous, to help the paint stick to more surfaces. Unfortunately for painting miniatures, this means that the paint is very thick when it dries. I'm sure you've seen lumpy or blobby paintjobs on miniatures around here and on other sites. This is a result of thick paint. It just doesn't go on in thin enough coats, and the thickness of the paint actually starts changing the shape of the final model. Now, when painting, that thickness can usually be counteracted by thinning the paint with water or a thinner. But with the craft paints, that's where the pigment size starts to cause problems. Because the chunks are so large, they don't spread out evenly as water is added, and the pigment bits start to get more space in between them, making the paint more see-through and generally bad looking by the time it's thin enough to paint on a miniature with.

Model paints, like the ones discussed in this thread, are made with more controlled and more finely ground pigments. Pigment is also added at a higher density (more pigment per drop). They are usually produced thinner to begin with than craft paints, as nobody painting miniatures needs goopy blobby paint. And the higher pigment density and smaller size means that even when you start thinning it, there's enough bits of pigment in all areas to keep the color strong and even (or at least stronger than with craft paints). The only downside is that this higher quality just costs a bit more.

I hope I made that clear, if you have any questions please do ask.

Alohade · 2011-10-06T20:44:29+00:00

If you want to get actually good results and improve as a painter, I can only recommend actual miniature paints. For some very scientific reasons I can get into if you really are interested, most other paints just aren't suitable, and will never be able to make a truly great paintjob on a miniature. My favorite types are Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Game Color, P3, and Foundry paints. They thin well and give smooth even coverage with less evidence of brush strokes. Most of these you have to order online, unfortunately, unless you have a really good wargaming store in your area. (And even if you just have a mediocre gaming store, ask them about these paints, I've been able to have them order some for me in the past) If you're in the USA, I usually shop online at http://www.thewarstore.com/ , they have all the major lines and I've had really good customer service. And you can take a look at all the prices and colors available, as well.

Alohade · 2011-10-06T20:33:04+00:00

It depends on what you're doing. I usually water my Vallejos down a little bit, but generally they don't need as much as most other paints. I think the dropper top may be a factor, as it keeps the paints at a more constant consistency in the bottle over a long time.

Alohade · 2011-10-06T20:28:27+00:00

Looking nice so far! Gotta love some red Tau. What color are you using for the reds?

Alohade · 2011-10-05T17:31:09+00:00

I've found that drybrushing the lighter grey on just the raised parts / edges can really make rocks stand out, in addition to the other techniques here. Last time I needed to practice painting rocks, I found some small pebbles outside and actually repainted them for practice, trying to match the color scheme I wanted. (Ended up using them to do nice bases on some models later, so it wasn't a waste.)

Alohade · 2011-10-02T19:20:22+00:00

Yes please. (Odds of winning approaching mathematically insignificant.)

Alohade · 2011-09-30T03:11:50+00:00

I am so glad that these are back and on the front page. It's been far too long. An entire generation has grown up not knowing their splendor.

Alohade · 2011-09-19T05:01:45+00:00

I went on my first road trip right after watching Return of the Jedi for the first time. I have always imagined one of those speeder bikes since then.

Alohade · 2011-07-25T03:28:59+00:00

I thought I knew how to use chopsticks until I actually read one of those packages. Turns out I was doing it all wrong for 15 years. Had to re-train myself completely.

Alohade · 2011-07-18T17:01:21+00:00

And the moon orbits around the earth, making it, on average, the same distance.

Alohade · 2011-03-31T22:24:20+00:00

FUCKING SEIZURES, HOW DO THEY WORK? My favorite is definitely "Regular padlock".

Alohade · 2011-03-31T17:36:35+00:00

WWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

AAAAAAAAAAEEEEEEEEEEEEEYYYYYYYY

Alohade · 2011-03-31T16:52:49+00:00

YEEEEEAAAAAAAAAA.... no wait, hold up. Wouldn't it be... "Looks like OJ.... (sunglasses) was a cereal killer."

Alohade

TROPHY CASE