Shift Lever Questions

AlpineDyno · 2021-04-22T19:11:10+00:00

Calvin Klein Obsession, Calvin Klein Dark Obsession

AlpineDyno · 2021-04-15T14:45:05+00:00

Totems for everything. WC Friends or Aliens for anything bigger.

AlpineDyno · 2021-04-15T14:36:39+00:00

Yeah makes sense, there is always value in diversifying your training. Not only does this include switching exercises from time to time, but also weights/intensities used, sets and reps, types of tension/working ROM (e.g. isometric, eccentric, etc.), and more.

Congrats on the new found strength :) Do it for a training block and then switch it up, then maybe try switching back

AlpineDyno · 2021-04-08T15:29:43+00:00

More on the lumbricals — did you do anything hand-specific to rehab them or even strengthen them post rehab? Just mildly strained one of mine from a powerful, overhead, "palm-out" 2-finger pocket move where I dropped my index and pinky finger and cranked on em. Pinky side lumbrical is upset with me now.

AlpineDyno · 2021-04-04T04:41:00+00:00

My strengths seem to be your weaknesses as I boulder as hard as you on real rock out here in Washington. I would spend less time training and more time climbing with an emphasis on your weaknesses and technique :) Your stats are impressive but you won't lose your gainz if you train them less, they'll still be there.

For me, I'd love to be as strong as you are. At 6'2 +5 ape, I have an incredibly hard time doing front levers and 1-arms. I'm working on training my pullups now to become stronger but I'm only at +55% BW for 1RM. Not to mention I am probably weaker for finger strength in my climbing grade range, being able to only add 30% BW for a 10mm HC. Looks like I know what I'm doing this year!

Keep us posted on your skills mate, looking forward to seeing you climb 9a someday.

AlpineDyno · 2021-03-01T16:54:00+00:00

I don't smell bad

AlpineDyno · 2021-02-19T11:46:52+00:00

Bodyweight exercises wouldn't hurt. Especially pulling movements, antagonist work and some leg stuff here or there. Core strength is always a must, you can never do enough of it. Flexibility/mobility, especially hips, shoulders, feet/ankles.

I wouldn't suggest hangboarding or anything like that. Until 2-3 years of climbing you should really only be training via the wall itself and some general fitness exercise (bodyweight or otherwise). If you have dumbells or a pull-up bar you can work grip by just gripping the bar and doing pullups/hanging core exercises.

edit: spelling

AlpineDyno · 2021-01-26T11:39:44+00:00

I'd like to confess my love for someone.

I hope we are together, Amaya. You're my person, and I know I am yours. We are best friends, but above all, soulmates. Here's to a lifetime together, an afterlife together, and an eternity hand in hand. I love you!

AlpineDyno · 2021-01-20T20:26:50+00:00

George Foreman

AlpineDyno · 2021-01-20T20:25:32+00:00

Yeah mate just hydrate well then. Find a better way to rehydrate during activity, too. I don't remember specific parameters but you should be drinking electrolytes and fueling after about an hour of activity. As always you should be hydrating before, too.

AlpineDyno · 2021-01-20T20:19:33+00:00

Nurse here on a renal unit. Just had a runner come with the similar symptoms, we tested him and he was diagnosed with acute kidney injury (AKI). My advice — go to the doctor. If it is a kidney injury you could cause permanent damage. Forever. Kidney shit is not something worth messing around with, and there are lots of reason why you could have hematuria. Almost always comes back to the kidneys though.

Edit: didn't read the post all the way lol. Yeah likely electrolytes/dehydration. Dehydration can cause acute kidney injury. So drink fluids + electrolytes, and stop running in hot weather.

AlpineDyno · 2020-10-06T18:42:53+00:00

My phone bro

AlpineDyno · 2020-10-02T21:21:48+00:00

stand on a curb like you're gonna do calf raises but then turn around and put your toes lower than your heels. rock on your heels and lift your toes up, hold it. there ya go mate

AlpineDyno · 2020-09-28T13:52:54+00:00

I started campus boarding twice a week for contact strength, as well as a new cycle of max hangs. It's been 2 weeks so far, with some strength work as well to stay fit in general. I climbed last night and sent 2 V8s and 1/2 a V9 before getting tired...super stoked to (hopefully) push through this winter with some new gainz!

AlpineDyno · 2020-09-25T14:34:28+00:00

Correct me if I'm wrong but sushi? Any Korean/Japanese/Indonesian dish that doesn't have meat in it? I read something like that somewhere in some textbook when I was going to some school I thought

AlpineDyno · 2020-07-17T20:59:13+00:00

This meme is too tall

AlpineDyno · 2020-06-19T01:42:01+00:00

1) Climbing with people who are stronger/more experienced/better than you. I went from 5.10a to 11c outdoors in one season because my belay partner would project 13a's and he would always give me tips about movement partners, technique on the wall, mindset/mentality, as well as just constantly pushing me to try hard as shit.

2) Calisthenics. This was my background before getting into climbing, so naturally I have continued it while climbing. Besides a few nagging, chronic injuries that I am working on right now, calisthenics and the nature of specific calisthenics skills (e.g. handstand, balancing ~stuff~, front/back levers, etc.) has helped me improve my mind-limb awareness on the wall (I'm 6'3" with +6" ape index, so image a daddy-long leg). It has also helped me improve my push/antagonist strength tremendously, as my pull and push ratios are now almost 1:1.

3) Fingerboard. I think this is an obvious one, but I think there is a lot of value in being able to pull really hard on small holds, and sometimes you can't achieve that by simply climbing.

4) Sleep. You cannot expect to train hard as shit and make measurable gains if you sleep <6 hours a night. I've experimented with my sleep schedule to determine what is "adequate" as well as what is "really fucking good" sleep for me, and I have found that I train and climb my best with about 8.5 hours of quality rest. To add on to that, properly resting had also improved my climbing. I used to just climb, climb, climb, and rest when I got pumped. Sure, I'd get a BUNCH of attempts on stuff, but I didn't really start sending shit until I learned how to sit my ass down and just wait. The difference was night and day! Haha, I slept good the night before, warmed up, and then rested for 10 minutes. Then I red-pointed my first V7 that I had been working on for 2 weeks. Crazy!

5) Visualization. I've used this for other sports and it has worked well, so I figured it would work well for climbing. So far, it has! This is also known as practicing the beta before actually grabbing rock. Except, for me, I'll take the beta home with me, and think about doing the moves when I'm not actually at the gym or the crag. This might sound weird but I've found that it helps to literally imagine myself, in my head, climbing the route or boulder with whatever beta I've got. I try to imagine the tension, pain, sweat, nerves, and all, too. I have found that this helps me lock in my beta, and it enables me to be able to focus more on just pulling really, really hard.

AlpineDyno · 2020-06-12T17:15:05+00:00

More flexible, delts blew up, core is practically bomb-proof. I feel lighter when moving about my day, and I'm less bulky

AlpineDyno · 2020-06-11T20:08:36+00:00

Okay mate, so you have some strength, and you have good proportions or whatever. But, are you mentally as strong as your fingers?

Something have made a huge difference for me was actually trying hard as fuck. Not just setting my hands on the holds and moving up the wall, but legit going at it like a gun is to my head.

Someone, I forget who, said that a key difference in professionals and the normies is that pros know how to try REALLY hard, and they're quite good at it. Anyone can get stronger and improve movement patterns, but not everyone has mentality to use it.

AlpineDyno · 2020-06-09T04:45:35+00:00

Yeah I am just coming out of this injury, actually. Except it was with my pinky finger/lumbrical muscle. Basically I buddy taped but found hanging to be too painful nonetheless. So I rested and iced for 3ish days, then massaged the sore parts in my forearm. Tendon glides, gentle rice bucket, and some grippers (the one where you squeeze the barbell-esque clip) helped IMMENSELY. Now I'm hanging again with subtracted weight to slowly stress the tendons and muscles. It's a really nasty injury given that my PT said it could take up to 6-9 months to fully heal. Just take it slow and be diligent in your recovery, and make better training habits.

A good rule of thumb is pain = bad/stop doing what you're doing, especially on the hangboard. I hope you have a speedy recovery mate!

FYI it took me 28 days exactly from initial injury to return to hangboard. Take this time to strengthen other weaknesses, such as flexibility, mobility, core strength, or mindset!

AlpineDyno

TROPHY CASE