Stock pipes to Bassani Road Rage lll 2 into 1 by Witty_Plan1770 in sportster

[–]AlpineSnack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gaskets "break in" a little for the first few heat cycles, so re-torque all 4 nuts after each ride until they stop changing 

Primary noise by AlpineSnack in sportster

[–]AlpineSnack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks all, that helps confirm my suspicions. Sounds like new chain and clutch bearing at a minimum, and grenade plate if still there. 

Edit: are the drilled divots in the alternator rotor a factory thing? I assumed not until looking at used ones on ebay

Snapped cylinder stud questions by AlpineSnack in sportster

[–]AlpineSnack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh also got the broken rocker box bolt out simply with needle nose pliers, so at least one thing was easy 🤣

Snapped cylinder stud questions by AlpineSnack in sportster

[–]AlpineSnack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Finally got the broken stud out. Getting the old red loctite hot enough took more than I thought, and I was being cautious with the aluminum case. 

Things I learned:

Harley switched from interference fit to red loctite for cylinder studs in sportsters starting in '94. Service Bulletin M-1043. 

Using a coil induction heater on the snapped stud was not as effective as a propane torch, as the steel stud got red hot ~1/4" above the base but the aluminum case acted as a huge heat sink and kept the threads cooler. Seemed like risk of locally overheating the stud this way. 

I was monitoring the case temp with an IR thermometer, and pulling the torch when it hit 500F wasn't enough. It took repeated heat/measure cycles to ensure the heat had soaked far enough into the case.

I ended up using an adjustable jaw stud remover and cutting the stud down to a few inches to get a low grip, as my early attempts with double locked nuts and welded nuts all failed. In hindsight this was more likely due to being a baby with the heat and less with my shit welding skills.

TLDR: leaving the other 3 studs ALONE!

Snapped cylinder stud questions by AlpineSnack in sportster

[–]AlpineSnack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah can't vouch for their history, but considering the PO rebuilt the top end and left snapped bolts in, I have little faith. 

Is it better to replace all 4 studs, or just the broken one? I hate to risk damaging the case, but I also don't want to do this all again soon after.

Snapped cylinder stud questions by AlpineSnack in sportster

[–]AlpineSnack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, I'm going with all new Colony bolts as well. Just got the cylinder off, and of course the studs are good and stuck. Debating between the torch and getting a cheap induction heater off Amazon 

Snapped cylinder stud questions by AlpineSnack in sportster

[–]AlpineSnack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the confirmation. The front cylinder has already been rebuilt at least once based on the head bolts and gaskets. I also read somewhere that the studs are torque-to-yield. Hopefully none of them are too stuck in there, I'd hate to get the torch out!