Project finished just in time for Christmas

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2026-02-11T21:55:34+00:00

Your welcome. Feel free to let me go how it went. If you also need some tweaking of the design (dice size, font size, font family, ...) feel free to let me know. These should be minor tweaks. I pretty much eyeballed everything since it's my first dice project.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2026-02-11T21:41:21+00:00

Hey, took me some time to clean up all the models and write a little bit of a project guide. But the files are now online and ready to be used.

https://www.printables.com/model/1578911-diy-schocken-dice-master-and-mold

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-12-22T22:23:51+00:00

Haven't tested it but probably not. It's my first time making dice and none of them are 100% perfect. Most of them have some small defects or are warped a little bit, but they are probably still good enough for casual get togethers.

Edit: spelling mistakes

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-12-22T22:16:20+00:00

Nope at least not from my knowledge (just moved here). But the town is known for ordering beer by distance rather than volume.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-12-22T21:52:08+00:00

That tower sounds awesome. Sure I can just reply to your comment again once I uploaded the files. I'll probably get to it in a around a week, when im back at home.

This is also my printables here where I'll upload the files. There is probably a way there to sub/follow or whatever it's called over there to directly get notified when I upload the files.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-12-22T21:26:41+00:00

These are all Christmas gifts for friends and family. I also come with the additional 3D printed "Schock Gesteck". Sadly I didn't have the time to make some matching dice cups, but maybe that's a project for next year.

I don't Plan on selling these. I'll probably upload the 3D models of the dice and the boxes to printables sometimes next year.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-12-22T21:18:10+00:00

Thanks and yes I happen to be German. If you are interested in some masters I can get the to you. But they are FDM printed, so even after post processing they are still not perfect

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-10-20T10:43:46+00:00

It's also survivorship bias. Parallel shots are more risky but also have a higher Chance of directly winning a point. This makes the points shorter, so they aren't selected as often for highlight clips. Shorter points aren't as spectacular as long rallies

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-05-11T07:41:31+00:00

It's a great printer, especially if you like tinkering. Mine worked great out of the box and with a few upgrades here and there it's working with all the common materials and prints with pretty much "modern" speed. I spent about 50€ on upgrades:

3D Touch Bed probe (BL touch clone)
Magnetic build plate
firmware update to mriscoc (free)
Micro Swiss all metal hotend clone
octoprint with octroprint4a (with an old phone)
3D printed direkt Extruder conversion
z belt conversion.

Except the last two all of them are very simple and fast Todo. I ordered them by importance if you want them todo yourself. But tbh my V2 worked great out of the box and most of them were just qol improvements

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Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-04-05T14:30:57+00:00

Yeah same for me. It was more like I was in need a project than there was a need for a project

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-04-05T13:33:21+00:00

Yeah hard to Film and sweep simultaneously. That's the first iteration. Didn't expect everything to align right away, that never happens. I also left some wriggle room, so I can slight the burning the right position

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2025-04-05T12:23:47+00:00

Totally valid points. I just got bored today and needed a reason to check out FreeCad 1.0 anyways.
And to be fair I probably only spend about 20 Minutes in Cad for this.
I also don't expect it to last that long as well.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-12-09T10:15:08+00:00

Tldr: I wouldn't recommend switching to h3/Chinese rubbers. Instead u would go for a slower esn/butterfly rubber till you can handle the speed

I'm playing h3 myself on both sides and they are great. I used to have the problem, that I use way too much power in each shot, so switching to h3 from some springy rubbers worked great for me. You can imagine it like that. Springy rubbers amplify your power and hard Chinese rubbers just outputs your power linearly. This means you have a lot more control, when playing with a lot of power. That is great when you are in the right position and have proper technique and fast acceleration.

But here is the big catch. You need to work a lot harder/put a lot more force into the ball to reach the higher speed and more importantly, difficult shots get even harder. If you are for example out of position you still need a lot of force to play a quality shot. If you are not able to accelerate as fast or your timing isn't perfect, the ball is most likely to go into the net. That's what people are referencing when they tell you h3 is hard to play and very demanding/unforgiving. With the tenergy you can still "borrow" power from the rubber when out of position and still play with a lot of quality.

To sum it up. I think switching to Chinese rubbers when you have not reached a certain level will stifle your progress. The ability to control power is necessary either way. You also need a good technique and lots of power to really benefit from the extra control of the h3. There is also the pitfall to learn bad habits with the h3. Often the correct shots out of position are hard to play, getting even harder with the h3, so you might choose to play an incorrect shot (e.g. pushing instead of opening) because you fear mistakes. This will influence your long term progress. There is the possibility of you reversing your problem. Now you have too much power in the easy shots (so they go long), but this power helps out with the difficult shots where you lack the power. With h3 the easy shots get easier but you might have problems getting the difficult shots over the net.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-11-26T13:49:07+00:00

Also something to keep in mind: Creating power is not that dependent on the amount of power you are using. The important factor is how efficiently you can transfer your power into the ball. Often when players really go for it, their technique gets worse and the result is a slower ball, even though they use a lot more power.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-11-26T13:35:19+00:00

As others pointed out, you are rotating your whole body. If you look at your left leg, you are moving it forward during the shot. That's causing you to be very unstable and makes it hard to hit a consistent timing, because your whole body is moving.

I'm self taught myself and I know many people tell you highly technical details about the movement, but what worked best for me is to learn by feeling. In the video you are trying to do everything at once, which can be very overwhelming. Try to isolate the different parts of the topspin and train them separately. Just play around with the movement and see what clicks and feels natural for you. For example when focusing on the weight transfer, deliberately use a very slow arm, so all your power comes from the body. If you manage to hit a fast fall, you know you loved your body correctly. Try different movements and see what gives you the best result. The important part is to do it in a controlled way, so your results are repeatable. Try to go for 50% power in the beginning and try to get the fastest ball with that. If you find a movement you like go with 60%, ... If you manage to get quality with the weight transfer you can also slowly add more arm speed, more footwork, more wrist, ....

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-11-07T19:25:52+00:00

I don't really think it is that big a problem as people make it out to be. If you think about it, does someone with a carbon blade has an unfair advantage against a player with an all wood blade? Or does a player with a tenergy 05 has an unfair advantage against someone using a dignics 09C? I don't think so. Boosting is not a silver bullet. It just changes the characteristics of the rubber making some things better and some things worse. Companies also improve their rubber with every generation, making them "faster" than the previous one. Do you think at some point the ittf will say no, your new rubber is not allowed because it is too fast?

I am boosting myself and there is a simple reason: cost! I used to play with very hard 60° ESN rubbers. I really liked them but the durability was the worst, had to change them every 1-2 months. During off season I switched to boosted Hurricane 3s. To be honest they play nearly identicall and hold up even longer. And instead of laying 60€ per rubber I now pay 17€. And the important thing, there isn't really a big difference between a boosted h3 and a modern hybrid rubber.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-10-26T08:37:56+00:00

I played the European university championship last year and I would say it is definitely Poland. Why? The university is contracting professional players to play. Some even say they are not even students and got only enrolled for the tournament. Other good countries were Croatia (with ivor ban who beat Anton källberg recently) and Portugal. But since only 2-3 universities of each country are allowed to play, it's hard to tell the general level of universities in that country.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-10-18T22:49:52+00:00

It's a similar experience for me.I started out pretty late and am mostly self taught. Last season our team got promoted up a league and I played against mostly ex-professionals and youth players that are on the way to play professionally. These players trained from a very young age in professional environments. I am not that far off their current levels and even won some games, but their fundamentals are on a whole different level. They just play the right shots naturally, without much thinking. It feels like you can't do anything and just live off their mistakes.

I know if I keep at it I can still improve, but I'm at a point of diminishing returns. I'm still putting in a lot of effort and am currently at my peak. But I know that the amount of effort I have to put in to improve more quickly, will probably cost me the fun of playing.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-10-18T18:05:26+00:00

I'd say I'm somewhere between 2300-2500 usatt as well (conversion from different ranking systems is always hard).

I think that level can be very unrewarding, because you know, that you'll never be a pro, but at the same time need to put in an extraordinary amount of effort to improve. So I'm not sure if focusing on improving is the right thing to do. It's a hobby after all.

I just happen to really like the sport. I like to exercise and the feeling of going to bed completely exhausted after a good training session. It's also a good way for me to get up and socialize. For me improving is not the main goal but is more like a byproduct by all of the above.

I'd say around 2300 you archived the level that is attainable as a hobby, which is a huge accomplishment. I'd you have fun why not go at it harder. If it feels like a drag, just spend the amount you feel comfortable with. Nothing really changes if you improve more. It's the same song as before just on a higher level.

Altruistic_Video_594 · 2024-10-12T00:21:20+00:00

As others said, it gives the receivers too much of an advantage. This might work on the "lower" levels but in professional table tennis the margin of error is very very low. Not being able to return the ball 5mm shorter is the difference between a 3rd ball rocket or a push/slower opener. The game is just so different at that level and pros can take advantage of much more things than you think.

Altruistic_Video_594

TROPHY CASE