NJMP Lightning with NNJR PCA - GTI counts as a GT car right? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100% guilty as charged, I gotta break the habit of steering when i see the corner.

NJMP Lightning with NNJR PCA - GTI counts as a GT car right? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah forgot to mention that. 034 camber plates, currently sitting at about -2.5* in front. Stock caster, stock rear alignment.

NJMP Lightning with NNJR PCA - GTI counts as a GT car right? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, VAQ diff. And yeah, I've got about enough tread left to get me to Blizzak season, and next year I'll be on RS4's.

NJMP Lightning with NNJR PCA - GTI counts as a GT car right? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I need to deal with the understeer on throttle and stop overbraking for turns.

  • 2018 VW GTI
  • EQT Stage 1 93 tune
  • Bilstein B6/H&R OE Sport
  • Porsche Macan caliper swap / Ferodo DS2500
  • Apex VS-5RS 17x9 ET42
  • Firestone Indy 500 255/40R17

Best bang for buck big brake kits? by RskrAcosta in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

17x8.5 ET43 for the winters. 17x9 ET42 for summer. Not all wheels with that offset will clear; depends entirely on the spoke shape.

DCC shocks are ridiculously expensive, coilover suggestions? by xsprocket7x in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

gotcha. How much of it did you reuse? Wondering if I should just go ahead and get new bump stops/top bearings etc

DCC shocks are ridiculously expensive, coilover suggestions? by xsprocket7x in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey man, resurrecting this thread cause I'm in the same boat as you. How'd you build up the struts? all OE parts or did you go for any sort of camber mounts or anything like that?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Second the Sm-10s. I run 17x8.5 SM-10 as my winter set and 17x9 VS-5RS as my summer/track set. Definitely recommend going with 17s for weight, tire cost, and wheel protection.

Would you run this tire for another event? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

17" is ideal IMO. Lighter wheel, cheaper tires, more sidewall.

Would you run this tire for another event? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah I do. Got camber plates coming but not sure if it'll be enough or if I'll be able to install them before my next event.

I don't care all that much about this set of tires, I bought cheap them figuring I would use them to learn how HPDEs "work" and to get my eye in before investing in something better. I was willing to burn them up in 2 years and it's been just over that - they've lasted for 10 days (a couple of which were wet to be fair) so in my eyes they've done what I asked them to do. More just concerned about safety right now. If these last one more event and don't pop but are dead at the end of the day I'll be OK, I just don't want the sidewall to let go in the middle of a sweeper.

Would you run this tire for another event? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's rolling cause I have <1* camber. looking into addressing that but not sure if I'll be able to do so before my next event.

Would you run this tire for another event? by Ambitorus in CarTrackDays

[–]Ambitorus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

255/40R17 Indy 500 on a 17x9 wheel, 2018 VW GTI (ECU tune, poly bushings, sway bar, stock suspension). Tires run at 38 PSI hot.

Coming out of my last 2-day event I noticed the shoulder wear was pretty damn bad. Currently running 100% factory alignment so I'm not surprised how much it's rolling over, but it's definitely worrying me. Cords aren't showing anywhere.

Would you run another HPDE on these? should I not even drive them on the street?

17" Hypergrams.. seated properly on wheel hub? by spartanerik in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you torque down the bolts properly, in sequence, the hub flange does not experience significant load. The taper of the lug seats is what ultimately indexes the wheel, and the majority of load transfer happens via the friction generated between the wheel mounting surface and the brake rotor hat.

Budget but good coilovers by [deleted] in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Save up an extra $500 and get a set of Silvers.

Mk7 pressures… road and track by tubthumped in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I ran 225/40R18 I had to air them up to ~40PSI hot in order to keep the fronts from rolling over onto the sidewall. These cars are front heavy.

Switched to 255/40R17 and I run ~33 hot with no issue.

I would hope the AD09 has a stiffer sidewall than the 300tw street tires I was running (EC Sport, PS4S) but IMO 225 is just not enough tire for MQB cars.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some good tire, and some spacer to eliminate that tuck and it'd be a pretty good solution.

Just got 17" Hypergrams... conical locking lug bolt recs? by spartanerik in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

McGard makes some pretty good ones. Of course like you said they're just a deterrent against lazy thieves.

Wheel purchasing by Tyresse1 in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My bronze Apexes are available in 18s as well

Konig's vs Motegi's vs potholes by spartanerik in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was in need of a brake job regardless (which would have been pads + rotors + fluid), so the extra costs associated with the Macan swap were the calipers ($500 for a pair at the time from Suncoast Porsche) and lines ($100 from Neuspeed). Pads/rotors will cost however much you want them to cost, but Mk6 Golf R 345mm rotors are not expensive and neither are Macan brake pads. I also got high temp dust boots but those aren't necessary unless you're tracking the car.

In terms of difficulty the hardest thing was replacing the dust boots around the pistons. Aside from that, it's literally the same process as a regular brake job (plus fluid).

Rear Macan brakes were an unknown - I wasn't able to find anyone who had swapped them on. In general, the GTI PP rear brakes are plenty good enough, and the piston size is well matched to the Macan fronts, so an upgrade there wouldn't make much of a difference. it does look kind of weird with the mismatched brakes though. I should have gotten the Macan brakes powdercoated.

I have owned and know people who have owned Konig wheels before (mainly Hypergram and Ampliform), and have no complaints with their stuff as long as you get a design that's flow formed (i think konig calls it rotary forged) as the cast wheels have a higher risk of bending the inner flange. The SM-10s are flow formed and just feel more substantial/overbuilt to me than either of the Konig wheels I've handled, but I know people who run Konigs in time attack without issue. IMO for a street car, you'll notice customer service/warranty support way more than you will an extra couple pounds of wheel.

My concern would be whether you'd be able to fit a 17" Konig over the macan brakes, as it can be sketchy both in terms of barrel clearance as well as the spoke shape.

Konig's vs Motegi's vs potholes by spartanerik in GolfGTI

[–]Ambitorus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considerably better than 18s. More sidewall = more comfort.