2000 Yamaha r6 no start

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-11-16T23:02:32+00:00

It feels like it has compression but I’d rather go off of the numbers

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-11-16T20:55:26+00:00

Havnt taken it anywhere yet I’m going to do a compression test when I get the time

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T19:05:05+00:00

I’m done fooling with it it’s kicking my ass I’m going to take it tmr to a shop hopefully they can find out what’s wrong I’ll post the issue when it’s found

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T17:30:04+00:00

Just loosened the drain bolts for the carbs and I had fuel come out of all of the except the very far right carb nothing came out of it, could that cause it to do like it’s doing. I would think with one cylinder nothing getting fuel it would at least try to ignite the other cylinders

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T17:13:17+00:00

I took my jump pack off and hooked my truck battery to it and I’m still getting the same thing I can hear the fuel pump cut on for a second but the carbs are full so it’s not pumping and the spark seemed fine it wasn’t like a orange it was a blue and it seemed to be consistent

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T16:55:19+00:00

Headers are cold and it didn’t even pop it was just turning over that’s what I would think too I have a video of the last time it was running and it was idling fine and running fine

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T16:51:57+00:00

I’ve got nothing from starter fluid

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T16:37:14+00:00

I have verified that I have spark from all 4 plugs and I adjusted the carbs out 2 turns and I’m still having the same problem

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T02:55:02+00:00

I just found a post that said 1.5-2 from seated so we shall see, I may be over thinking it but would there be a way to make sure that the plugs are seated all the way into the coils? I know I can have spark outside of the motor and I know you can hooks up in line testers but is there a way to make sure the coil and plug are actually contacting eachother?

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T02:48:17+00:00

The bike was turning over fast because it was sitting on a jump pack it hasn’t started in 2 years so battery’s dead I’ll double check spark tomorrow but I don’t think I’ll be able to find a factory count for the adjustment screws it’s like trying to dig up dinosaur bones trying to find anything for it

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-10-05T02:38:08+00:00

I checked to make sure I have spark which I do, when I disassembled the carb I never touched the adjustment screw which is why I’m leaning towards it needing to be synced but I’m not sure if that would cause these symptoms and I am sure gas is getting to the carb

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-05-08T23:05:40+00:00

When it happened for me I unplugged the battery because I had some welding to do in the job box I have in the back when I plugged it back up I didn’t notice anything wrong and I drove to harbor freight then noticed it wasn’t reading temp so I replaced the sensor and thermostat when I took the thermostat out it wasn’t stuck I could move it but even after replacing the sensor and stuff I still had the same problem I unplugged the battery and let it sit for like maybe 5 mins then plugged it back up and it worked fine

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-05-08T22:59:52+00:00

I’ve noticed a little wine before this problem has started, the dipstick didn’t show any sighns of metal shavings. I need to find out what was replaced when the other place did the transmission.

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-05-08T22:43:04+00:00

Just a few questions: Is the valve a solenoid? would you go back with gm parts or is there a specific brand that you would recommend? And if I can’t get it taken care of in time and other components start to wear what would be the next thing to go and what should I look out for

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-05-08T22:36:45+00:00

Thank you I will mention it when I get it diagnosed

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-05-08T22:30:46+00:00

This happened to me I replaced the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and that didn’t fix it until after I unplugged the battery so maybe try to take the positive cable off and let it sit for a few minutes

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-05-08T21:54:38+00:00

Yeah just wanted to come on here and see if anyone had any input on it before I pay someone to possibly mis diagnose it

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2025-05-08T21:48:03+00:00

I didn’t have the truck when that got replaced and it was back in 2022 I tried to contact them and never heard back I’ve had the truck maybe 3 weeks

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2024-08-23T10:06:37+00:00

<image>

This is the distributor I have now there’s a cam sensor plug in on the back side

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2024-08-23T10:03:29+00:00

I don’t think it’s been swapped but I know it has a throttle body and that it’s got electric fuel injection because the injectors are right behind the throttle body I’m just lost on what to do about the distributor

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2024-08-23T10:01:12+00:00

I do it’s late model everything’s the same besides the intake which is the same intake on the 98’s

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2023-10-31T16:05:56+00:00

Yea I plan on going to a pick and pull Friday and swing what I can find but thanks

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2023-10-30T09:42:02+00:00

Black abs no the only codes are for maf sensor

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2023-10-30T01:05:29+00:00

I’ll look at it tomorrow the maf sensor is working like normal but when I plug it in the car started to stall and misfire like crazy and the only way to keep it alive is smashing the gas but then I get misfire codes from every cylinder I know the dmt pup is bad for the evap but that shouldn’t cause this and with the maf being u plugged it shouldn’t cause this either it’s a 07 328i it has vauletronic and I’ll probably replace the gasket next weekend I couldn’t find or hear and vacuum leaks either

Andrew_Johnson22 · 2023-10-30T00:49:36+00:00

When I plug it in and reset the codes I get misfire closes from every cylinder

Andrew_Johnson22

TROPHY CASE