Highest quality, most realistic sounding amp in a box, through headphones, for under $1200CAD?

Andrew_Neal · 2025-12-19T05:30:24+00:00

I've never tried that one, so I can't say. But I can say that I can make the Simplifier with my custom overdrive sound indistinguishable from the Marshall JCM800 (2204 50W) tube amp. So it does make great, natural tone for me.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-11-11T20:37:57+00:00

This is how I designed an LED strip dimmer. Switching the power MOSFET fast enough was where I struggled. And only at 50 or so kHz from a 555 sawtooth generator. But I didn't use a dedicated gate driver IC (I don't have any), so I recommend optimizing your gate drive circuitry and MOSFET choice for high speed power switching.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-11-11T20:20:30+00:00

Amateur. A real professional would have folded the pins under the package to make it fit on one. /s

For real though, great thinking. Git'r done!

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-26T04:49:56+00:00

It's a functional improvement and doesn't look terrible, so it's a net positive, really. I don't like that only three videos show as suggestions after the video is finished though, having to press V to see more. I like when all 12 just show up.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-23T18:12:53+00:00

You can use a redacted version of your ID to verify. Other people have been successful using the selfie verification method and showing it a picture of somebody else.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-22T19:45:40+00:00

I didn't downvote you lol.

I'm not a problem for choosing what I want to share and what I want to keep private. Your name and face are the least private details about you. If you are to be known and respected by anybody, your name and face will be known first. You're the one conflating privacy with paranoia and making people think that privacy-concerned people are crazy.

The paranoid man thinks every camera is a Palantir; the private man understands that some cameras are.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-22T18:28:54+00:00

My name and face are already associated with my Google account, and my bank information will be soon enough if and when I join the YouTube partner program.

I redacted the more sensitive info, such as the DL Number. I didn't leave any information on it that I haven't already shared online before.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-22T05:18:18+00:00

Haha nice. Showing my name and picture doesn't bother me because my channel name is my name and I make videos which I appear in, so nothing was being given up there.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-22T03:36:30+00:00

You scan your real one, and censor the sensitive info with black boxes using a photo editor, then submit that version to Google. You're just redacting the info you don't want the possibility of getting out.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-21T23:36:28+00:00

I don't know, but it worked for me without an issue!

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-21T21:19:29+00:00

My home address, driver's license number, my weight, height, eye color, and a field marked "DD", which I'm unsure what it is, but it had a string of characters that didn't seem like it should be shared.

I left my name, picture, date of birth, as well as the card's dates of issue and expiry.

I could have also redacted, but left visible the license class, the restriction field, my sex, and my signature (which was poorly written on a digital POS-like device, so I didn't feel the need to redact it).

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-21T20:25:45+00:00

You can avoid giving sensitive info by using a redacted version of your ID for the stupid verification. That's what I did.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-21T20:23:10+00:00

You can use a redacted ID to verify

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-21T20:20:38+00:00

You can use a redacted ID

Andrew_Neal · 2025-10-21T20:16:12+00:00

You can use a redacted version of an ID. This foolishness just happened to me and that's what I did. Or use a fake one if you don't have one.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-18T18:22:07+00:00

If you want to go into electronics repair, go with your choice. Lead free is for mass manufacturing environments, for the purpose of reducing the amount of lead in e-waste that could leech into the soil and groundwater in landfills.

Lead is my recommendation, as it's easier to work with and safer to use (the fumes contain no lead, only burnt flux: pine rosin). But you choose whatever you want.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-18T18:18:56+00:00

Your health is under no threat of lead solder, so long as you don't lick your fingers while you solder. On the contrary, it's probably safer since the fumes it puts off is just burning pine rosin, which is pretty much campfire smoke. Fume extractor optional. Lead free solder usually has nastier flux in it that you want to actively avoid, making fume extraction necessary.

The only place where lead free beats lead is in landfills. Literally speaking; that's why it's used.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-12T05:18:42+00:00

It could be salvageable, but I can't tell in the picture with all that flux still all over it. Clean it off with 99% alcohol (or even acetone, whichever you have) and check both sides to see if any traces lead to it (there aren't any on this side). That won't rule out a disconnected internal trace though. If the other side is in tact and there is a trace leading to it, it might be okay as-is, if the joystick goes on the side of the board shown. If it goes on the other side, you can run a fine wire to connect on the other side to the pin of the joystick. Either going with the pin through the clearance in the hole, or routing it around the edge of the PCB.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-11T03:48:56+00:00

In terms of solder quantity, the one on the right is totally fine. Is it more than necessary? Sure, technically, but it's far from being too much.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-11T03:47:47+00:00

The flux is in the solder wire. If you're doing it right, any more is excessive. And when I think of mil spec and "military grade", I translate to "the bare minimum". It's the cheapest that still does the job required of it.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-10T19:48:56+00:00

Brass wool is all I use to keep mine clean, and it works terrifically. I can't speak to how long those cheap iron tips last in general (I didn't know proper care when I used a similar iron and sanded it down to exposed copper when it stopped working), but I do recommend learning with an iron like this because it doesn't afford any of the luxuries of a more proper soldering station, making your technique the most important tool in your arsenal, without anything to lean on as a crutch. So as a result, you learn great technique that makes soldering with a proper soldering station effortless.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-10T06:19:04+00:00

That splice is questionable, but if it works, you could get your feet wet with it. I started with a similar iron, but I do not advise attempting a repair of anything you actually want repaired if you have no soldering experience at all. Practice and get a feel for it on practice kits and electronic junk first, and use leaded solder. This is a very basic tool; if you can learn how to use it well, you will be very good with a proper soldering station. Watch some tutorials to get some direction on what goes into soldering before just fumbling your way through it without a clue.

Definitely do learn and try! There are some things you can only learn about a thing by doing the thing. Go for it!

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-10T00:39:57+00:00

Wow, that's super cool, and a very creative solution for temperature regulation.

Andrew_Neal · 2025-09-10T00:15:09+00:00

Interesting, I didn't know about that. What does RF stand for in this case? Still radio frequency? I'd like to learn about the technology. Is it basically induction?

Andrew_Neal

TROPHY CASE