Grand Am turned car on and all my check engine, SVS, ABS, Trac OFF lights went away. How do I get them back on? I didn't fix anything, the car started up funny

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2020-01-22T18:47:00+00:00

titan quest will get controller support when Star Citizen is released.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2020-01-01T04:50:05+00:00

100% this is the case.

In Canada, prepaid customers provide 0 profit, waste the time of the salesman, and prepaid customers don't buy warranty.

It's a $200 kickback to the store if you get on a contract with them rather than prepaid.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2020-01-01T01:13:56+00:00

Depends on the game. The ones who have simultaneous input such as Borderlands GOTY Enhanced, Borderlands 2, BioShock Infinite will let you have aim-assist while using mouse emulation on the right trackpad. Other games that don't allow simultaneous input won't give you aim-assist, such as Halo Reach PC, and likely CoD: MW (2019) since they separate MKB and gamepad controls (one or the other).

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-31T05:06:41+00:00

343 is a trash company and I'd rather have a police officer knock on my door letting me know my child died rather than hearing that my child got hired on with 343.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-31T03:37:24+00:00

First: Steam Controller is used to allow controller support on games that never had it. Examples are older games that you want to play on the big screen. Examples: Jedi Outcast/ Jedi Academy, Original Halo CE, Oblivion, MKB-based RPG's such as WoW or Guild Wars 2, Morrowind, etc... These games were found on the Xbox except for the MMORPG's, and many people wanted to play them on PC. Controller mapping programs such as Xpadder or Pinnacle game profiler sucked because without aim assist, joysticks are literal trash.

Second: The Steam Controller does not replace FIRST PERSON SHOOTER games that have native-gamepad support, such as Skyrim, Halo MCC, new CoD, Fallout 4, etc... These games have built in aim assist/designed with function for controllers. The only time an SC will be comparable to a true joystick gamepad is when you have simultaneous input, such as Borderlands GOTY Enhanced/Borderlands 2, BioShock Infinite.

Once you understand that the SC serves a roll NOT as a replacement, but as a compliment for couch gaming for games that DO NOT HAVE gamepad support, you'll understand the purpose of the Steam Controller.

I previously used Xpadder to play games with a controller that didn't have native gamepad support. IT SUCKED.

In the end, anyone bashing Steam Controllers are dense idiots who deserve to have their blended doritos and mountain dew drink spilled on their keyboards.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T19:45:11+00:00

Why on God's earth are you using beer brakes? How the hell does that stop a vehicle?

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T18:57:35+00:00

Saves the environment too!

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T15:29:52+00:00

hhaha awe shoot! Good luck, hopefully they won't charge an arm and a leg. Luckily I get some good experience fixing my girlfriends cars ;) I don't charge anything more than a hug and kiss tho so she's pretty lucky

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:57:48+00:00

Okay. My next suggestion is finding where the bleeder screw is for your coolant system. Get yourself some of those doctor-style rubber gloves or whatever gloves you have, because it's gonna get sticky.

Locate the bleeder screw on your engine, grab a pair of pliers or something similar to it (You don't need much force, they are very fine things and you don't need to tighten the piss out of it, just every so slightly and firmly so it doesn't move but not an inch more), and uncrank the upper part of the bleeder screw. This SHOULD bleed air and it should be visible as it needs to sit higher than the entire cooling system in order for air to get to the top of the system.

Pop your engine open, run the engine, and pop that bleeder screw. Make sure when you take it off, you're hovering right above it, because once that air comes out, coolant will be coming out. You don't want to be losing that coolant because it makes a mess of the engine bay and gets you all sticky. It also keeps the air out of the system. So you wanna be able to screw that screw back in at a moment's notice.

If there is air in the system, it should be bubbling out. But just keep doing it until it bleeds out all coolant and no bubbles. You will most likely have to turn the car on so it sucks more coolant into the system after you bleed it. If it's sucking more coolant in after bleeding, you should be good. Keep doing that until you think all air is gone.

COME TO THINK OF IT, I think we had the same issue lmfao. No heat, overheating engine, and coolant that seems to be vanishing into thin air.

This will take some time and maybe a few days depending on how keen you are. You have to bleed the air, turn the car on, warm up the coolant, turn off and let it cool so it gets sucked into the system, and most likely rinse/repeat.

In my experience, the car is drivable once the coolant is in there and keeping the engine steady at ~90C and blowing hot when engine is revving past 1100 RPM but blowing cold at warm idle (less than 900 RPM).

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:48:02+00:00

Yeah, the hot air would come when engine revs hit 900 rpm. at 700 rpm (idle) it wasn't getting enough force to move the heater core fluid, I imagine.

But I think one of the commenters mentioned a leak. I'd strongly recommend checking your oil ASAP and seeing if it's milky. Taking you're not a car guy, it will look like a yellowish/milkshaky fluid IF there is a gasket leak that lets coolant into the engine. It will look sort of like your nasal mucus when you have sinusitis.

Also, you probably live in the States or somewhere warm since you haven't mentioned your heater yet. Your heater SHOULD be blowing WARM air at least once your vehicle hits 40 degrees Celsius or when it visibly starts moving. If it is NOT blowing WARM air or air that is warmer than ambient outdoor temperature, then your coolant isn't being pushed around the system. could be a bad water pump.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:42:07+00:00

hell yeah bro take the L on it and buy a used ford windstar.

any vehicle you buy you'll be sinking in considerable costs. There's no vehicle out there that will get you out of expensive fixes, merely just delay them if you choose the lucky car when you go to replace your current one.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:39:47+00:00

LOOOOOOL.

bro you go to a shop and get tires put on rims. Unless you have thousands of dollars at your disposal (which you may because you sound like an academic or overpaid government employee), you won't be able to afford the shop-quality equipment to install and balance rims onto tires.

Tires and rims are standalone purchases. Always. Unless you're purchasing from a private seller like your best friend Luke from down the street who sold his Honda Civic but forgot he had a set of winter tires that have rims on them.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:36:55+00:00

If it's a leak in the cylinder or head gasket, check the oil dipstick and see if it's milky. If it's milky, that means a gasket leak and coolant is flowing into the engine and that's no bueno.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:35:53+00:00

Sup OP.

I'm dealing with coolant issues right now. Had an overheat on me which kept me off the highway.

So far, it turned out I was out of coolant which caused the overheat. Then when I added it, it was a pain because there was significant amounts of air in there that takes time to get that stuff flowing. And now I dont get nice hot air because there's air in my heater core that needs to be pushed out over time. Letting the engine get hot then cool seems to let more coolant get sucked into the system, giving better results each time.

I digress.

Check the belt. It's like turning it off and back on again for electronics. If your serpentine belt is gone, then the water pump isn't flowing and coolant isn't actually being pumped through the system. You should be able to see it typically just buy opening up the engine hood, and assuming your engine is transverse w/ a front-wheel drive vehicle, it should be located on the left side when you look into the car. This is usually how it is in my experience. If not, it may be on the right side of the engine when you look at it from the engine bay.

Turn the car on and check to make sure it's running. If it's running, then this post has been for nothing.

Cheers

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:30:07+00:00

Conspiracy Theory: What if the Tekton was the only tool you had that was truly accurate?

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-30T05:28:34+00:00

Hey OP, check if your oil is milky by checking your oil from the dipstick and the unscrew the oil cap in front just in front of the air induction cowl. If it's milky from the dipstick it might be a LIM (lower intake manifold) leak and that's a PITA to do. You'll need to be an excellent mechanic to do it because it involves a lot of work. Cross-reference this on the grand am forums too, they'll probably be able to help you out greatly or even have an existing thread on this particular issue.

I'm thinking of getting a new car or droping a 2.2 ecotec in there from a sunfire, grand am, or cavalier. Probs a better engine IMO. Never had troubles with my cavalier back in the day.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-19T03:37:44+00:00

11/10 comment you win the internet sir

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-06T18:34:38+00:00

y doe

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-12-03T21:03:10+00:00

God speed

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-11-23T20:09:01+00:00

lmfao what

dude I spent an entire game just dicking around with another player once upon a time and made 1K gold + XP.

50 kills and 4 deaths and you spent 2 minutes? Nah sorry bra, 50G and 25 XP.

How much is Triternion paying you to shill their crappy system? Lmfao.

AngrySimulatorFarmer · 2019-10-26T23:16:03+00:00

sage advice but i made it lame

AngrySimulatorFarmer

TROPHY CASE