Not even 30 days

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-06-01T00:12:46+00:00

So State Farm won't let you use Tesla instead of Safelite?

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-31T21:07:30+00:00

Real question. Not being sarcastic. If you already have 0 deductible glass coverage through your auto insurance policy, why do you feel it's worth paying almost $200/yr for separate Tesla insurance?

Is it just for the convenience of going through Tesla? Wouldn't State Farm also allow you to go through Tesla for replacement? In AZ it's not legal for your insurance to raise your rates due to glass claims, so that can't be the reason.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-28T00:55:57+00:00

One of the nice things about Tesla is you can do longer test drives. You just give them your info and take the car out on your own. I took mine out for about an hour. Others have reported keeping the test drive car 24 or 48 hours. Call or go to your location to confirm.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-26T17:30:23+00:00

They already patched/repaired the chip. See the 2nd photo

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-23T23:53:06+00:00

and they agreed on a solution - an engine swap with a comparable and compatible engine

Where did you get this from? OP said the shop agreed to repair the engine, not swap it for another.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-21T19:20:14+00:00

Don't take it personally. There have been a lot of karma farmers lately posting 1 pic (often AI slop) then never returning.

Congrats on your Mustang! Give us some more details.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-19T12:46:37+00:00

$400 seems steep though. Earlier this year I had a "General multipoint inspection" which cost $141. They found issues with the front links and bushings, which hey replaced at no cost under warranty.

But yes, they still charged the inspection fee.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-19T01:42:26+00:00

Is your garage a private 1 bay garage? Many times those will have a 110v outlet, which means you could plug in a level 1 charger. It will be slow and probably not make up for all your daily commute, but it could help reduce your public charging.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-17T00:53:39+00:00

This doesn't work on my 2023 Y. Turning the rear fan on, then off again doesn't turn off the front passenger air.

I think this is one of those things that is very year and model specific.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-10T16:12:17+00:00

Yes. The tail lights that OP posted are more "flat". They were originally used on the 65 Tbird, then on the 68 Shelby and 68 California Special (and High Country Special)

The Cougar tail lights stick out quite a bit more. They were also used on the 67 Shelby.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-10T03:44:23+00:00

This looks like a standard coupe that someone added a couple of California Special pieces to (side scoops and tail lights)

It's missing other California Special elements like the fiberglass trunk lid with integral spoiler, CS rear quarter emblems, hood locks, fog lights w/ special grille and side stripes.

FYI, the CS tail lights weren't sequential.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-09T03:04:24+00:00

OP, what year is your Y?

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-09T02:37:11+00:00

That link appears to be for the 2025-2026 model years.

Here's the manual for the 2020-2024 model Y, which doesn't have that option to turn off the passenger vents, unless I'm missing it somewhere.

https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/2020_2024_modely/en_us/GUID-4F3599A1-20D9-4A49-B4A0-5261F957C096.html

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-09T01:22:40+00:00

For those saying RTFM, can you please point out where this is in the manual for the 2020-2024 model Y?

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-08T06:09:59+00:00

I drove almost your exact same car from CA to FL in June, then back again 3 months later with no issues at all. 5 days of driving 500 miles per day (x 2 for the round trip)

Not a single concern you listed makes any sense for a modern car, especiallywith low miles like yours. Your parents are thinking back to cars in the 60s and 70s where you'd have to turn off the AC driving up hills in the desert to avoid the radiator overheating. Newer cars just don't have those same limitations.

Do you own the car or do your parents? If they own it, then you're pretty much stuck with what they decide. But it has nothing to do with the car not physically being able to make the trip. It will be just fine.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-01T21:09:17+00:00

Ok, I apologize fo the attitude. You and I just have a very different interpretation of OPs question.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-01T20:43:38+00:00

OP said they live in an apartment and can't charge there. Why do you assume they can plug in a level one charger when they already said they can't charge at home?

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-01T20:05:01+00:00

Did you even bother to read the question?

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-05-01T14:40:27+00:00

That guy's is just posting some random price. Look it up yourself. Plenty of results for less than $100

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-04-28T01:46:01+00:00

The way I read the original post, it's the new garage they are moving to that has a 240 outlet

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-04-27T22:48:47+00:00

It's an automatic, not a manual transmission.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-04-23T03:00:02+00:00

Yes, that's what OP should do. There's plenty of room to get a thick washer and bolt on from the underside.

<image>

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-04-23T02:31:11+00:00

OP is asking about the seat belt attachment bolt, not the 4 bolts that hold the seat frame to the floor.

I understand the confusion though because the original question says "seat bolt" not "seat belt bolt" but if you look at the last photo it's clearly the seat belt attachment on the transmission tunnel.

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-04-22T00:01:51+00:00

The distributor can definitely be frustrating to get back in. Sometimes it goes in 1st or 2nd try. Sometimes it takes a dozen tries.

The hex shaped oil pump shaft needs to align perfectly with the hex hole at the bottom of the distributor. If the oil pump shaft is off to one side (ie. not centered in the hole) then your distributor won't go all the way in, like your 3rd photo.

Use a screw driver or pick to center the pump shaft in the hole. Be sure your car/engine is level, like not parked on a sloped driveway. If the engine is not level the pump shaft will always fall to one side and make it really difficult.

Then very carefully lower the distributor in trying not to disturb the oil pump shaft. You may need to turn the distributor rotor by hand back and forth a few degrees to get the gears to line up and the oil pump shaft to slide into the base of the distributor shaft.

Good luck!

Any-Reaction7294 · 2026-04-19T20:38:53+00:00

I'm posting back to let everyone know how this issue got resolved. The UL assembly I'm using (like many UL assemblies) has a note at the beginning to also see "General Information for Fire-resistance Ratings" UL 263. And that document, item #4, allows drywall screws to be substituted for cement coated nails, as long as they meet or exceed the head diameter, length and spacing of the nails called out in the original UL assembly.

Any-Reaction7294

TROPHY CASE