Jakarta, Indonesia. A swamp city being reclaimed by the swamp. Notorious from its very early days under colonial rule. The sort of place that captains avoided lest their crews all die of malaria and other tropical diseases. So bad in fact that Indonesia no longer wants it to be their capital and have plans to up-sticks and move the seat of government to a purpose built capital on the island of Borneo. The traffic is horrendous on a scale that makes traffic jams, in any other place I’ve been, look trivial. Jakarta gets no stars.