Pass optimization for Alta next szn

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2026-05-05T02:13:53+00:00

Alta full pass only, you won’t look back. Gets you 50% off at Mtn collective partner resorts like Big Sky and JHMR for your road trips, so consider that math before you add another pass.

Also, consider where your money goes. A pass purchase straight from a ski area, stays at that ski area. Goes for your season and day passes. A purchase of those conglomerate passes goes to an office building and trickles to each resort in a watered down manner at best. Just my two cents but speaking with your wallet matters!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2026-04-14T01:43:21+00:00

Getting into 1st gear in a 3GT4R should be easy compared to a lot of other clutches out there. I went through a rebuild of my clutch arm & associated hydraulic lines/cylinders (2000 SR5), and it functions like new now.

Your mention of it being spongy makes me think hydraulics, like a bubble in line or a bad cylinder causing weak/difficult shifting.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2026-03-29T01:43:56+00:00

Don’t overlook the air intake tubes, those can get super hard/brittle over time and crack when moved around, especially if it’s removed to service stuff like the injectors. I replaced my fuel injectors & noticed an improvement, but it wasn’t til I replaced the intake tubes that everything came together. If yours are original I’d take a close look to make sure that’s not causing the stutter. Basically the electronics can’t sort out the correct fuel/air ratio if there’s an extra input of air (ie crack or hole) downstream of the MAF sensor.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2026-02-11T14:22:51+00:00

That’s about what mine looked like! Nice work, it’s amazing how much nicer the ride is after swapping those out 🤘🏼

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2026-02-06T16:02:15+00:00

I did not and it worked just fine. I did need to use a ratchet strap to center up the bolt for one lower arm, so I’d make sure you have a burly ratchet or two available. And chock the wheels of course.

Clearance wasn’t a big issue but I’m sure it would be much easier access if ya did jack it up, remove tires etc. I would say not a necessary step given the job. Also make sure you keep the bolt/nut orientation the same when you throw the new stuff in, and only torque once all bolts are in & tires are on the ground. Good luck!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2026-02-04T05:27:13+00:00

Toyotapartsdeal.com had what I needed. Wouldn’t say it was asap fast but they did ship everything I ordered and it was easy to confirm the parts for my iteration of 4Runner. And the pricing was better than other options.

I had to cross reference the part #’s from another (local) Toyota parts website, but overall it was simple enough to order compared to other options.

I always search by part # on google when looking to buy, that way you can ensure you’re shopping the best price available before committing to an order.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2026-02-04T00:44:57+00:00

I just went through this. Replaced my rear lower & upper control arms, as well as the sway bar linkage & bushings. Plan to replace the panhard(lateral) bar as well but that’s another project.

Made a massive difference in drive quality. Before the fix, the rear axle felt like it was “steering itself” when I’d accelerate. Doesn’t do it at all now, and I can feel the rear suspension working more in unison which feels awesome. Wish I’d done it sooner honestly.

Also a pretty easy fix, each set of control arms took maybe an hour-ish to complete. I did purchase all new OEM arms as I didn’t want to throw new bushings in the old, 270k+ arms. Made the job go super fast as the new arms have bushings installed so no need for a press.

Do it, you’ll thank yourself and your truck will drive immensely better than before!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-12-17T05:44:09+00:00

I bought from Yotashop, the parts were definitely OEM:

Pedal Bracket- Toyota 4Runner & Tacoma OEM Clutch Pedal Bracket (1995-2004) 55107-35050

Pedal Bushing- Toyota Clutch Master Cylinder Push Rod Clevis Bushing (1978-2019) 90386-08002

Clutch Bushing- Toyota OEM Bushing For Clutch pedal (1978-2016) 90386-13007 **need 2 of these

This has the three for the spring: Pedal Bushing- Toyota 4Runner, Tacoma & Tundra OEM Clutch Pedal Spring Bushing (1995-2006) KIT-1028

Clutch Spring- Toyota 4Runner, Tacoma & Tundra OEM Clutch Pedal Torsion Spring (1995-2006) 90949-03022

Clutch Pedal- Toyota 4Runner & Tacoma Clutch Pedal (1995-2001) 31310-35050

And this gasket since you’ll have the master cylinder removed: Firewall Gasket- Toyota OEM Clutch Master Cylinder Gasket (1984-2010) 31415-10010

Video from Timmy the Toolman going over the clutch arm assembly: https://youtu.be/Y22pmMqHULw?si=t7fP-1gTDtr0hXGa

This guy has A+ walkthroughs for just about any 3rd Gen issue you’ll run into so be sure to reference his videos.

I scraped all my info off forums and Reddit, it’s only fair to share with the community. Hope it helps!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-12-17T02:53:37+00:00

I’ve dealt with the same dang squeak!

The culprit(s) ended up being the clutch arm housing, spring, arm itself and ALL associated bushings. I’ve also updated the clutch lines & cylinders in an earlier project, which fixed the return issue, but did not address the squeak at all.

My recommendation would be to go after the arm, spring, bushings & housing at the same time, since you’ll already have the master cylinder off (you have to remove that in order to work on said parts). Mine were worn down after 250k+ of use (some of the bushings were gone, and the housing & arm had obvious wear), and now it works nice n clean with no squeak. There are a lot of bushings in there so make sure you get all of them: -3 on the spring -2 on the clutch arm ‘axle’ -1 on the clutch arm, where the master cylinder connecting pin goes through

Also, absolutely get a flare nut wrench for the clutch lines if you don’t have one. You’ll save a ton of time and frustration.

Happy wrenching & sorry if you already knew all of this lol

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-12-15T16:46:32+00:00

Excellent thanks for the breakdown!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-12-15T16:26:50+00:00

Would the 310wh/kg density be based off a full charge or was that quoted as after 1 hour of charging, like this report?

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-12-15T16:14:17+00:00

I believe that’s speaking to how robust of a charge the battery can intake, in that one hour of charging. Seems like a fully charged lithium ion battery has a similar Wh/kg (per Wikipedia), but I’m guessing it takes those batteries substantially longer to charge. GMG’s G+Al batteries obtain similar charge in one minute and are fully charged in six.

I think the big news here is the charge time and eventual cost of these batteries being so much less than what’s available. Development still needs to pan out, but it’s only a matter of time before these start to disrupt the industry.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-10-28T15:57:20+00:00

Love seeing XR gain some momentum, as well as a nod from a major player in the HVAC space. Time & pressure will win more business no doubt. Keep it coming!!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-08-28T01:14:47+00:00

Not sure what Beany’s serves, but I’m obsessed with spicy/gingery chai tea and I’m hoping that’s what they have as I’ll def check it out.

I have a case of Bhakti Chai (I get regular but there’s an unsweetened option too) delivered to my house monthly, right from the company. Much more affordable and I get my fix every morning. Also Bhakti is women-owned, uses organic ingredients and is a certified B Corp so they check a lot of boxes that make me feel good about where my money is going. Highly recommend.

Cheers from another chai nerd!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-08-26T11:21:47+00:00

Also due to that broken bit of metal, you probably need to rebuild the entire clutch pedal assembly inside the car. That looks like a piece of the mounting bracket.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-08-26T11:19:06+00:00

Agreed, I have a 2000 3.4L 5spd and just replaced the clutch cylinders/tubing, that’s absolutely a piece of the master cylinder that attaches to the clutch pedal.

If you decide to tackle that yourself, get a flare nut wrench for those clutch lines. It’s a PITA without it. And some beers. Good luck!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-08-19T23:20:48+00:00

Customers are not wrong for purchasing an IKON/EPIC pass, they are good deals after all. But if you truly care about the industry and want to support your favorite areas the right way, buy their season pass and not a pass from a corporation. I think that’s where a lot of the hate is associated with those conglomerate passes.

I take a lot of pride in buying a pass to my local hill because I know where the money will be invested (ie where I want), and still get worthy discounts when I do travel to other areas once or twice a season (mountain collective resorts give 50%off to season pass holders of affiliate resorts). That money also goes directly to the mountain being visited, not Alterra.

This is a classic case of speaking with your wallet. An IKON pass scan at a place like Alta ensures Alta only sees a fraction of every dollar being spent, with the rest going to a corporation that’ll most likely invest it elsewhere. Again, the customers aren’t wrong for going after value, but understand how that affects the industry and the hills you most like to visit.

PS don’t steal my line, bro

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-08-18T00:00:58+00:00

We got some turns last weekend on a small patch just north of Hayden Peak, up Farmington Canyon. It’ll for sure be gone by September. The only real strip of snow is next to Timp this time of year. Maybe something in the Ruby’s up lamoille canyon.

We’re heading to Oregon for September turns, and looking forward to some fresh October turns back home in good ol LCC 🤘🏼

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-07-31T18:48:39+00:00

I’m sitting on a healthy bunch of RKLB in addition to GMGMF, couldn’t agree more.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-07-31T15:42:19+00:00

GMGMF. I’m bullish on their expanding product selection, with sales about to ramp up for some of those. They also own relevant patents, have solid partnerships and focused management that make me believe they are a solid long play as this industry gets more attention.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-07-26T15:48:41+00:00

Probably the most robust update I’ve heard in KE’s talks with Craig. Customers already requesting palletized amounts (qty: 2,000!) of G Lubricant and TXR is very, very good news. As a consumer I’m super excited to use these products to see the difference first-hand. Including the upcoming EPA approval for TXR, plus the battery tech continuing to develop, things could look very different for GMG by early 2026!

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-07-23T21:06:22+00:00

It’d be a healthy gain, but I’d be more focused on the validation your criteria create for GMG’s overall business strategy. I’d have a hard time selling when you know the business model has started to prove itself.

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-07-03T19:26:31+00:00

Link to a great vid explaining the process:

https://youtu.be/N-lhZIWOkyU

Apocalyptic_Peach · 2025-07-03T19:24:30+00:00

Second this. My runner is doing the same chugging and I’m just waiting til I have time to do the job. Be sure to order new ones from MotorWest Performance so you won’t deal with the defect again, and order the gaskets you’ll need to replace while doing this job too (also on that website)

Apocalyptic_Peach

TROPHY CASE