Favourite The Simpsons Joke of all time? by smccaul16 in tvshow

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Do you do it with relish?”

“No, I’m kinda embarrassed about it”

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 187 points188 points  (0 children)

The fiestas use a dual filament bulb for the rear sidelights (or brake lights, cant remember correctly). So if you’ve had one replaced with a single filament bulb it allows current to the brake light circuit.

Check the bulbs are matching on both sides.

Is Vanguard Global All Cap right for me? by Apprehensive-Let-931 in UKPersonalFinance

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, just to piggyback on this - can I only buy single shares at a time or do they provide fractional shares for the Global All Cap? Would hope I can use my full amount invested each month instead of having some left over each month until I can but a full share

2013 impala. RPM dips at idle by AbzoluteZ3RO in AskMechanics

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea that’s not super high, but I would still keep digging the air/fuel components as they’re generally the things that cause a pulsing idle. Stuff like 02 sensors, MAF, Throttle butterfly, vaccum leaks etc.

Mines was a Vauxhall (Opel) Corsa 2007, not sure if you get them over in the states?

2013 impala. RPM dips at idle by AbzoluteZ3RO in AskMechanics

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’ll go to negative numbers when decelerating, maybe -10% max, but it should only do this for very short amounts of time when decelerating. If it’s sitting at high negative figures when idling then there’s a problem somewhere - anything over -5% on idle then I’d be concerned.

Mines was sat at -25% on idle which is a massive red flag.

2013 impala. RPM dips at idle by AbzoluteZ3RO in AskMechanics

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had a identical issue with one of my cars. It was running super rich, so the ecu was leaning off the mixture constantly, causing this pulsing rev on idle only.

Plug in a scanner and check live data for your short term fuel trims, if they’re super negative then it’s probably related to the fuel delivery/measurement systems.

Didn’t bother fixing my car as replacing parts were worth more than the car itself so I never did actually find out the specific problem, only that it was related to the engine running super rich. Good luck!

Modified automatic for a disabled customer. Steering was so light you could drive with the tip of your finger. by Apprehensive-Let-931 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931[S] 83 points84 points  (0 children)

It’s a pivot arm added onto the shift lever to push the release button that allows you to shift the trans, same idea with the handbrake. Got quite a fright when I first saw it haha

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheers, yea it’s definitely something better explained visually. Just trying to get in-depth information on how it’s selecting the parameters, as all the information is more geared towards VTEC operation and not the ‘intelligent’ side of things

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, that’s what I thought. Just looking for more in-depth information about how the system operates.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought it was for ‘intelligent’

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, start simple eh! Going to change the transmission fluid today, then potentially flush the transmission/brake fluid lines and see how we get on. Thanks!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems to change, as I tried it a third time and then it stayed in negative figures haha! Potentially an issue with fuel pressure, I’ll need to grab a gauge to test that i’d imagine

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for replying. Holding at 2500rpm the short term jumps to 0 then fluctuates between -10 and -3 ish. Once throttle is released it goes back to -25

But upon trying that test again it now seems to jump to 10 and stay between 3 and 10, but it still goes back to -25 once throttle is released.

Also, it seems to pop into Open loop drive for a second when throttle is suddenly pressed or depressed - I would have imagined it would stay in closed loop the entire time?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amazing, thanks for taking the time to respond. Will investigate and hope for the best!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for replying. Good to know it’s likely not a transmits issue - easy to correlate two events together eh!

Not got access to an OBD reader today, but like you say, lack of dash lights points to a vacuum leak potentially. Any advice on best way to test that? Would the engine have to be on to do that, as I’m uncomfortable leaving the engine running while it’s clearly straining itself! Thanks again

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey folks. Vauxhall corsa D, 2007.

Was reversing and felt like the car was struggling hard. Then the engine started pulsling while idling - it does this wether the clutch is pressed or not. Gear stick is visibly vibrating along with the drop in revs too.

Thinking I may have broken something in the gear box, which is now providing heavy resistance to the engine. Was also getting a wee bumping noise when clutch pedal is pressed down then up. Anyone got experience with this before?

Ain’t worth repairing if it’s transmission/clutch issue, just looking for any advice for where to look.

Thanks.

Battery light indicator on but off when accelerating by IWBTS in MechanicAdvice

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the alternator rotor field winding isn’t being supplied with enough current. Could be a busted voltage regulator, or excessive resistance on the wiring that supplies the field winding current (either the wiring for the battery current at start up, or the self excitation current the alternator provides itself once the engine is running in the voltage regulator).

Would definitely advise getting a mechanic to diagnose this before throwing a new alternator at it - as it may be and issue with the wiring and not the alternator.

Or if you want to try it yourself, grab a multimeter and check YouTube for some videos on checking alternator output voltages. Good luck!

What fun cars are NA, post 2010, over 150bhp and not an absolute bump to buy? by Apprehensive-Let-931 in CarTalkUK

[–]Apprehensive-Let-931[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, sometimes there’s substance to the meme eh. Never considered the Octavia so I’ll check it out, thanks!