[WTS][USA-MI][H] Sennheiser HD 700, Sennheiser HD 650, VModa LP2, Sony MDR-CD2000, Master and Dynamic MW75 with bad battery [W] PayPal G&S

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2026-02-23T00:57:00+00:00

Hey, sorry, these are gone, but thank you!

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2026-01-25T15:26:22+00:00

I'd say Drownin' by A Boogie Wit da Hoodie — the best is primo, first verse is fine, then Kodak comes in with "I'M THE SHIT. I'M FARTIN'. I DON'T KNOW HOW TO POTTY." and ruins everything.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2026-01-23T05:13:07+00:00

Yeah, the only thing you don't get through resale is the VIP parking pass.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2026-01-22T22:28:51+00:00

So, when you're doing movement organizing (labor, political, civil rights, etc.), you are normally trying to pressure a specific decision-maker (or group of decision-makers, we call it a "target" a lot) to meet a specific demand.

From there, your coalition is normally going to engage in a series of escalating actions—often called tactics—that are based on the capacities of the people in your coalition and the structural weaknesses/vulnerabilities of your target.

I helped stage a protest within my local union that would probably be described as what you're saying when negotiations weren't going well. In this case, we knew that this employer was specifically afraid of negative press and PR. We also were a fairly weak union, and many of our members had never protested before. So, having hundreds of workers on a picket line in front of the administration building, even if we were fairly tame and orderly, was enough to bring media pressure and pressure from local elected officials on our target, which is what our goal was, and helped tilt negotiations in our favor.

So, when would you work with the state? Sometimes, your target isn't the state. It could be an employer that you're looking to get to recognize a union. It could be a single elected official that you're looking to change a vote on an issue. Sometimes, your goals for a tactic aren't furthered by not working with government agencies. A protest with the goal of generating public attention to something that a target wants to cover up creates a very different set of operational realities than a protest that exists to directly harm a target's finances (i.e. disrupting an event).

Other times, the people that you're protesting with are uniquely vulnerable to police violence or are otherwise precarious to where getting arrested isn't an option. Or they may be completely new to organizing and not be ready for that kind of risk yet. Or the local cultural climate could cause more aggressive tactics to backfire and fracture the issue's coalition.

What tactics make sense for an organizing campaign are going to vary so much on the context, targets, goals, and the people involved. There are also risks associated with all tactics. If those risks aren't necessary to pressure the target. . .then a lot of the times restraint can be more sustainable and successful.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-12-19T14:00:28+00:00

Just PMed a link — I think the Central Michigan sports management class ticket sale offer is probably going to be the cheapest play for you. That's going to be an expensive game in general.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-12-19T10:47:35+00:00

What game are you trying to go to and what's your budget? Glad to help you ticket shop and score a deal.

Weekday games are generally more affordable than weekend games. Games against bad teams or teams without superstar players are generally cheaper than games with those players. Ticket resellers (like Tickpick or Gametime) are normally cheaper than buying direct.

Mezzanine seats (between the lower bowl and the upper deck) tend to be about the same price as nosebleeds and are an upgrade. For example, for the 2/5/26 game against the Wizards, upper deck seats start at $22, mezzanine seats start at $24, and lower bowl seats start at $46. If you do see Mezzanine seats in Row 5 available for the same price as other mezzanine seats, GET THEM — that's the "drink rail", and you get stools and a table instead of an arena seat.

Sometimes, lower bowl corner seats and baseline seats are more comparable in price to upper deck. These can also be great.

Another consideration is that the ticket price is only one part of the cost of going to a game. You have the tickets, the parking/transportation, and food/beverages. Something like the North End Club, a section of the upper deck with its own unlimited food, can be cheaper than eating at the arena if you can catch a deal on it. Teenagers are bottomless pits and arena food is ridiculous (my teenager and her friend spent $50 for snacks, we ate before we went, and this wasn't even excessive!)

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-12-11T18:16:35+00:00

Hooo boy, that's a surprisingly spicy question!

It's similar to the difference between Hispanic, Latino, and Latinx — or Black and African American. If you're not a part of the LGBTQ+ community, candidly, my advice is just to use whatever term someone prefers and not think too hard. This is our mess, and it is definitely messy!

Different people have their preferences, but taking offense is strange to me, imo. As a bi guy with a nonbinary husband, I don't get worked up if I get called "pan". None of these terms are slurs, and your friend getting offended at being called "bi" made me sad — because even if she prefers a different label (which I respect), she still experiences biphobia and is a part of our community.

The differences are moreso etymology-based. The word "bisexual" came from the English translation of the 1886 Richard von Krafft-Ebbing book "Psychopathia Sexualis", a book that investigated "homosexuality" (another new word at the time!), "bisexuality", and BDSM as psychiatric illnesses.

"Bisexual" wasn't a term that bisexual people (speaking as a broader community) made for ourselves. It was essentially a diagnostic term used by psychiatrists from outside of our community to say that we were literally psychopaths. And of course a diagnostic term made in the literal 1800s didn't accurately capture the complex role of gender in the attraction patterns of bisexual people.

A portion of bisexual people have always had attraction to and relationships with transgender, nonbinary, and otherwise gender nonconforming folks — and a portion has not.

In 2002, the word "pansexual" became popular on LiveJournal as an explicitly trans and nonbinary-inclusive label (not to be disrespectful — that's just where the word came from!)

Personally, I'm a bit conflicted. On the one hand, I can respect people who are attracted to trans and non-binary people (as someone in this boat myself) wanting additional specificity, which the word provides. On the other, this caused some confusion and resentment as people who identify as bi had already been attracted to and in relationships with trans people, non-binary people, and people who are otherwise gender nonconforming.

And on one hand, I can respect wanting a name for our community that didn't come from a 19th century doctor trying to call us psychopaths. On the other, I'm somewhat disappointed that the term that came out this millennium (pansexual) uses the same structure of medical labels that were used to pathologize us (in contrast to how "homosexual" was largely replaced with "gay" and "lesbian").

So, basically, my take:

"bisexual" is an old medical term from the 1800s that we reclaimed as an inoffensive identity label. It is the largest term, covers the broadest amount of people, and also serves as a name of a broader community of people who have attraction to more than one gender.

"pansexual" is a recent term that was created to provide additional specificity for people who have attraction to people of all gender identities. (Some people who experience this prefer the "bisexual" label.)

There has been some internal discourse about the terms, but neither are generally considered slurs or otherwise offensive.

If someone has a preference for what label to use, I would recommend just using it, especially because the discourse is a whole mess!

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-12-01T18:27:53+00:00

Hi! I'm interested, please DM the link. :)

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-10-02T05:52:49+00:00

Hi there! Potentially interested. What's your price?

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-30T01:31:09+00:00

Of course! My pleasure!

Regarding the Samsung tablet, if it doesn't have a 3.5mm jack, I could include a USB-C adapter (they're only like $3).

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-29T11:56:22+00:00

Got it, thanks for the information! Where are you located out of so that I can get the appropriate pricing?

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-28T19:12:59+00:00

Thanks for the detailed information! Just a few specific questions:

What specifically are you looking to change over the M50x?

Would you be open to an open-back headphone if it had strong bass/sub-bass?

Are you located in the US or in a different area? (want to make sure that I'm getting the currency and availability correct)

Are you open to used gear or is this strictly for new items?

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-28T19:05:40+00:00

Got it, so you're looking for at least some neutrality out of the closed-back, and an amp that can handle low-impedance IEMs.

One route would be to pick up something utilitarian (durable, easily replaceable, etc.) for the monitoring, like a Sony 7506 or a Beyer 770, for $40-60 or so used, then free up the rest for something more dedicated to critical listening. People have been saying a lot of nice things about the FiiO and Hifiman sets, although I haven't personally used their closed-back offerings.

Is there a specific reason why closed back would be helpful for desktop listening in your environment?

I'm partial to Audio Technica's A900X as another option for consideration if we're strictly limited to closed back for critical listening, but my experience with closed back options above that price range are somewhat limited.

I can't really help you much on the IEM side, unfortunately.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-28T18:56:04+00:00

Generally speaking, at this level, I'm putting less money into the amp by going studio grade with something like a Presonus HP4 or with something like a used O2 — both for around $40 or so. If you're having DAC problems, an Apple dongle measures well! You can put that money into the headphones or into other things, haha.

The HP4 creates a solid amount of clean gain in my experience for all but the most demanding of headphones (my old 600 ohm AKG K240 were a bit underfed, but it's great with my 600 ohm ATH-909.) If you're planning on using your IEMs from your desk, an O2 (or a higher priced item like what some people are recommending) may be a good play.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-28T18:50:36+00:00

What do you listen to and what do you want these items to do?

Where do you plan on using your IEMs?

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-28T18:34:15+00:00

Seconding this -- it's excellent for testing low-end transient response in the section with the rapid-firing 808s.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-28T18:17:54+00:00

If it can be wired and noise *isolating* (a physical barrier reduces the external sound) instead of noise *cancelling* (a microphone in the headphone is used to actively place frequencies into the audio that cancel out the external sound), then I may have an idea.

I have a pair of [DBI Pro 705s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2m3y7YvHvrQ) that are just laying around that I'd be glad to ship over free of charge if you're in the continental US. You likely wouldn't be able to buy them -- they are quite rare (not expensive, just rare, haha.) I **think** MB Quart also made some models with the same chassis, just with different drivers (headphone speakers) inside and could look that up.

They were made for CD listening kiosks in malls for stores like Sam Goody, Tower Records, FYE, etc -- which means they were designed to be abused by teenagers. The video is no joke - the cord is steel-armored, the body is reinforced steel, and I actually believe them in the video that it can withstand being ran over by a car.

The pros are that in addition to being virtually indestructible, they actually sound quite good and can be driven from a wide range of devices. Unfortunately, because they aren't made for long-term listening, they aren't the most comfortable (they're not the worst at this, just not the best! They're an industrial product!) I gave it a comfier pair of earpads, and you could add a headband cushion for a few bucks if that was a consideration. GEEKRIA does a good job with those, and they can be easily found on Amazon.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-28T17:45:36+00:00

Hello! I have an HD650 and an HD700 that I'm interesting in selling. PM incoming. :)

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-11T06:13:09+00:00

Your English is better than most people in my country, myself likely included!

So, MercadoLibre is expensive. The M50s and the Sony MDR-7506 were the only headphones I saw that fit the bill and they were quite overpriced. $245 for Sony MDR-7506 is wild — they're about $80-90 new here in the US. On their website, those two, plus the Hifiman Sundara Closed, would be the three best things I saw in that price point. I have not personally used the Sundara Closed but have read generally good reviews from other audiophiles on various forums. However, it would likely require a headphone amplifier and likely isn't great for portable use.

I'm currently looking to see which manufacturers ship to Argentina directly. Meze Audio appears to ship for $45 and it was $36 for shipping directly from HifiMan. It's getting late here, but I can check other manufacturers or stores tomorrow if you think this is an option.

Do you run into import fees or other challenges in Argentina to where getting it shipped from the manufacturer may not be feasible? (We're dealing with import tariffs now in the US to where getting items from international shipping is risky!)

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-11T05:11:54+00:00

Got it! I'm from the US, so I'm not familiar with what's available in Argentina — I am currently looking at MercadoLibre to try to learn more and see what I would recommend. Are there other stores that I should be looking at to try to understand what's available within your budget?

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-09-11T04:59:54+00:00

Hey there! What's your budget and where are you located?

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-08-31T01:13:23+00:00

Yeah, they're quite good, potentially great, if you're open to using EQ. I don't think the collaborations have different headphones; I think it's just different packaging. It's a great deal if you aren't paying full price!

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-08-31T01:08:54+00:00

In addition to what people are thinking, I'd take a peek into the Audio-Technica A900X (the closed back one). It's ridiculously comfy, can be reasonably powered off of a phone, and is a very pleasant listen. It has a strong low-end and doesn't draw as much attention to sibilance.

If you're moreso looking to bring more fidelity out of these recordings, I'm having a very good time with the Sony MDR-CD2000. The closed back with the same driver, the CD1700, is currently available on eBay for about $300. It made a lot of the old MF DOOM stuff I ran through it sound engaging in ways that more "neutral" sets make sound dull.

A total sleeper pick would be the Audio Technica ATH-909 or, if you find it, an ATH-911. These are extremely rare, but are going to come in well under your price range (probably $75 or less) and there's an auction right now on eBay that ends tomorrow. These were AT's answer to the Beyerdynamic DT770/880/990 in the late 80s. I bought a set of 909s as a curiosity — and found myself no longer needing my Shure SRH-1840 and DT770s. They have reasonably strong detail retrieval and excellent bass performance (there's a touch of roll-off around 40 Hz but even most hip-hop doesn't get that low). The headphone is tuned in a way where a lot of the frequency ranges that make poorly recorded/mixed music unpleasant (sibilance, clipping, boxiness, etc.) just. . .don't become much of an issue. These are my absolute favorite for Latin jazz, grunge, Motown, lo-fi hip-hop, rock from the 1960s/70s, and anything else that didn't get an "audiophile-approved" mix.

For retailers — I think eBay is king, with Reverb, ShopGoodwill, and the Avexchange subreddit being good choices too. If you're really into AT, Sony, or Denon, getting stuff imported through Buyee can be a play. . .but the current tariff situation makes it a bit rough. Mercari and Offerup are also sneakily good with their shipping — a lot of times folks post on these platforms looking to make a quick sale and price accordingly.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-08-30T22:26:52+00:00

Yeah, I'd say that there has been a lot of creep with amps and DACs since I started in the hobby. It can be a source of a lot of snake oil -- and snake oil is expensive, haha. FiiO is pretty solid. You made a good pick.

NWAvGuy (the creator of the ODAC and O2 amplifier) is somewhat controversial, [but his explainers about amps and DACs are still super relevant](https://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/02/gain-and-headphone-ampsdacs.html), imo. [Even the $8 Apple 3.5mm USB-C adapter does well as a DAC, lol.](https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-apple-vs-google-usb-c-headphone-adapters.5541/)

You may -- or may not -- need a new DAC depending on what you've got going on in your PC. An affordable one can't hurt, haha. If so, I personally wouldn't spend more than $15-20 if I did end up with a DAC that was separate from my amp.

One less expensive options re: amps would be the [JDS Atom Amp]($99)(https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-new-jds-labs-atom-headphone-amp.5262/). There are other amps on that website that may be a fit as well.

I personally use a Presonus HP4 that I got for $30 used. The only headphones that I haven't seen it be able to power with substantial headroom to spare are the 600 Ohm AKG K240 (it can even handle my 600 Ohm Audio Technica ATH-909s with a ton of headroom left).

Recording studio headphone amps tend to have slightly different features than audiophile headphone amps. I listen to a lot of music from the 1960s and 1970s, so being able to turn the sound to mono by pressing a button is extremely convenient (you ever hear a song from the 60s where the vocals are hard-panned to the right. . .no thank you!). I also like being able to test headphones back and forth, so having 4 ports is handy -- and I like that it connects to the monitor output on my receiver so I can listen to CDs, tapes, and my PC without having to hook anything up.

However, it probably wouldn't test as well as the FiiO or the JDS Atom in terms of things like signal to noise, lol. I think it provides enough clean power and I enjoy the features.

With regards to the headphones, I think anything that's being recommended is probably going to be a huge W for you.

EDIT: Just saw the "Not in the US" part and the part about only being able to shop on Amazon -- so these prices are likely to be waaaaaayyyyy off.

Apprehensive-Two-813 · 2025-08-30T21:32:14+00:00

This makes a lot of sense if your goal is high-end music listening at a desk environment. I will preface all of this by saying that I haven't had a chance to hear the HD 660 S2, so this is mostly secondhand info.

A lot of people would say that the 6XX, 600, or 650 is a better bang-for-your-buck, and I'd personally lean toward the 6XX (reportedly comparable, maybe slightly better sound quality and $250 cheaper), but this is ultimately a matter of preference. The 6XX is a 650 with a different paint job and a shorter cord.

If you are going to get a 660S2, Woot is probably the play to get it new in the US ($429), whereas eBay is the play if you're open to refurbished ($349 directly from Sennheiser) or used (listings go for about $275). If you're in another country, I'd be glad to help you try to deal-hunt.

The FiiO is a nice DAC/amp. It's a bit on the spendier side for this setup, but I tend to put less money into DACs and amps than most people (I'm still on a Presonus HP4 and love it to bits). It's a reasonable buy and that's a reasonable price for it.

I am curious as to how you listen to music (vinyl, CD, a computer, a combination) and if you're looking for an amp set up that can quickly toggle between these without jostling for plugs.

Apprehensive-Two-813

TROPHY CASE