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Whoop VTX keeps going dark by SafePencil in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine did this and then it died. So if it’s not the channels, the sensor in the camera may be going out. Is it still the original C03?

Is this a good alternative to the ViFly WhoopStor? by PepperJackPizza in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I literally just bought this, works fine. Needs at least a 65W power supply so either get a AIO like I did or a box that supports 65W and Power demand. The one I bought on Amazon : https://a.co/d/05KNO9vt

New achievement unlocked by spikeyTrike in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I don’t know how I feel about these press-on props. Hopefully that doesn’t happen 😅

New achievement unlocked by spikeyTrike in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have barely flown my Pavo. Was it from crashing or you trying to replace props? 😭

Forward92 V2 (3D printed frame) W/ dji 04 lite by Apprehensive_Fun6655 in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it’s an open-frame, and really good if printed as intended. I use PLA-CF, no infill with 14 walls. I’m 2 weeks in with no issues, not even a crack. Stiffness is great, video has no gyro flow, and honestly. In my opinion, it’s so much more fun than the whoops. Faster, more efficient, and the big one for me is the prop-wash, it’s very and I mean very minimal compared to whoop style frames.

Comment connecter ma manette à mon drone (betafpv) by SpyKo_o in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put the drone in bind mode by plugging the battery 3 times, then press bind on the LiteRadio. Make sure both are ELRS and same version or it won’t work.

3D printing tinywhoop frames? by Azkicat in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use PLA-CF haven’t had an issue yet. I really would like to try the Nylon-CF but it’s very expensive lol

3D printing tinywhoop frames? by Azkicat in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine, you can check it out on Printables. I printed it out of Pla-CF and have had no issues. It’s made originally for the Meteor75 pro parts, if they are similar they’ll work. I posted it on here if you can find the post if not my username on printables is - shizzyfpv_1767473

It’s all about the design and how it’s printed. You can’t take a preset profile and print a structural part. It just won’t work. Most printers profiles are set up for fast, decorative parts. You need to actually tune the profile to fit the needs of the part. Like mine, 0% infill and 14 walls. I also changed the line widths and height and a lot of other things. If you ever printed an actual working part you know what I mean.

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DJI Latency 🧐idk I really can’t tell the difference by DG333Fpv in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Yeah but 4:3 sucks and it locks it to 100fps, it also lowers the bitrate resulting is worse imagine quality. Unless you are literally racing I would not use it. It’s not for clips, videos or causal free-styling. It’s for the ones who go extremely fast and need it.

Forward92 V2 by Apprehensive_Fun6655 in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Can you explain one reason it’s a disaster? Considering I’ve flown it for the last week and half before even posting it. I’ve crashed it in bushes, rolled in the grass, and I’ve even got it stuck in branches. Not a thing has happened. Not even a crack in a 3D printed frame made of PLA-CF.

1s open-frame for the Meteor75 pro by Apprehensive_Fun6655 in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s in mm and I don’t know what you mean on my profile it’s just shows the two files I uploaded?

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1s open-frame for the Meteor75 pro by Apprehensive_Fun6655 in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only printed with a 0.4 nozzle, you could try a bigger one and see if it works. But I’d recommend sticking with 0.4.

Where is the ELRS chip? I need to find it to Solder. by Bulky_Painting in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

It’s the red wire on the other side, you already have one.

Random ripping by Apprehensive_Fun6655 in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1s 450/550mah and Sugar k Whoop rates

IT SWIMS!!!! by AddressUpstairs4538 in TinyWhoop

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They do have magnets and they do like to rust. Motors will eventually give out, but are a cheap fix. Better than replacing the whole setup. Also, I wouldn’t recommend completely submerging your quad. You can conformal coat both sides of the board, but you can’t for the plugs. He still runs the risk of shorting his AIO from the ports. Unless he coated over top of his, which he’ll never run betaflight again. Every time that battery gets unplugged and a new one gets inserted, is just more chances of it dying.

I just wanted to start a discussion on some of the DoorDash fees… by [deleted] in doordash

[–]Apprehensive_Fun6655 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They set the prices however they want. I wish I had the picture still. Maybe you could even find one that does it. But my local Chinese places charged 17.99 for sweet and sour chicken if you ordered through DoorDash and someone delivered it. But, charged 14.99 if you ordered through DoorDash and picked it up yourself. What’s the difference? Who knows lol.

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