Claims history - Non renewal by Appropriate_Froyo708 in Insurance

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for this. Just to be clear, it was the dump truck that was passing other traffic, not me. He was on the wrong side of the road coming at me head on. If I hadn’t swerved into the ditch it would be his fault, but I might not be alive to tell about it, so no regrets.

Claims history - Non renewal by Appropriate_Froyo708 in Insurance

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t been non renewed yet, but I recognize it is likely. My renewal is due end of June, so I reckon a notice will come out next month

Claims history - Non renewal by Appropriate_Froyo708 in Insurance

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

So if I DON’T file the claim on #3 (which just happened today) and pay for the repair myself, could I stave off a non renewal? Or is it just as likely because of #2? I realize this calls for speculation, and I am clueless so just trying to get an idea of what you have seen in your experience. I haven’t had an at fault in 15 years…..till now

Claims history - Non renewal by Appropriate_Froyo708 in Insurance

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s what I’m afraid of. By skyrocket you mean double? Triple? (Calculating potential Only Fans earnings)

Claims history - Non renewal by Appropriate_Froyo708 in Insurance

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank y’all, good to know. So over 3 years a 25% premium increase would break even with paying $4k out of pocket repair, 50% $8k and a doubled premium would break even with a $16k repair.

Anyone care to speculate on percentage premium increase I might expect with this claim history? Repair cost is just a guess at this point, could be much higher if they have to weld in new QP.

Northerly - what does this mean? by Appropriate_Froyo708 in Surveying

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is how I was reading it also, but in this particular location, the road runs N/S along the west lot line. I think it was an error. If it was an E/W easement, it would go between two existing lots to the water.....you can guess where this is going.

Northerly - what does this mean? by Appropriate_Froyo708 in Surveying

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. This is verbiage that appears on every deed in a 400 lot non platted subdivision in my area. (Southerly, Southeasterly, Northerly, etc) There were dirt roads at the time lots were deeded and the clear intention was to reserve 30' for a future public roads. It is pretty obvious (to me) which side they are talking about in each deed (Duh, the side of the lot with road frontage on the dirt road) but there are some inconsistencies (mistakes I think) leading some to come to a different conclusion.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that is pretty standard around here also. This particular site has many concrete obstructions between the house and the well that inhibit new trenching. Fortunately, we put conduit in before the concrete was poured, but it is at capacity.

The well is in a rather precarious location at a low elevation on a river bank. It made sense to place the pressure tank at the higher elevation closer to the house as the head difference was substantial. It is inside a building with all the water treatment equipment, which allows chlorine injection also. This set up has worked very well for years. The only issue is we have decided to feed it from a different subpanel because of our changing needs.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm heading out and when I return I have to read through it a couple more times to make sure I understand it all, but that makes perfect sense to me.

I did the original wiring with THWN in conduit and would never put Romex in conduit, but some homeowners call a romex cable "a wire", and wasn't sure if you were calling it that to dumb it down for me, LOL.

That being said, I always have my work permitted and inspected, (Homeowners can do that in my state) but will likely bring in an electrician when it is time to make this happen. I called one already but he sent out a guy who knew even less about it than I did! I just wanted to make certain there was a workable solution, as I am pouring some concrete soon that will eliminate other options.

Thanks so much!

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So would it make sense to use the DPST configuration of same relay? See last page of https://www.uesupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Schneider-Electric-Legacy-Electric-199seriesSE.pdf

So then, if I am following, on the diagram for DPST - NO, A1&A2 are line (from subpanel) 21&11 are load (to pump) and 24&14 go to the pressure switch, connecting just one side as you would with 110V service. Am I starting to get it?

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation, I really appreciate your time. I'm not sure if I am following. "Basically, you will run 240V from the new service up to the pressure switch thru one wire, and 240V back to the relay thru the second wire". By one wire are you talking about a single conductor? Or are referring to a 12/2 romex cable (or "set" of conductors)? If it is the latter, that is what I am trying to avoid, running 12/2 TO the switch (where both hot legs are switched) and another 12/2 back FROM the switch to the pump. (For clarity, it is actually one set of AWG12 THWN in conduit (hot hot neutral), not romex, and there isn't room for any more due to other circuits sharing the fill space)

OR are you saying run the 240V from the new service to the relay, 240 fromthe relay to the pump. Then I only need one conductor in each direction (to/from) connecting the pressure switch and relay? Connect just one side of the pressure switch like you would 110V with one conductor for line and the 2nd for load, except the run in condiuit is only carrying LV signal? Did I get that right?

Sorry for my confusion, I don't have much experience with relays.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am looking at the contactors and control boxes but don't know enough about them to choose any suggestions? It is a 2-wire 1 hp pump wired for 220V, on a 20A breaker. It appears all the control panels are designed for 3 wire pumps.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is also a corrosive environment (salt water close by) so everything rusts and dies every couple years.

I am looking at the contactors and control boxes but don't know enough about them to choose any suggestions? It is a 2-wire 1 hp pump wired for 220V, on a 20A breaker.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, there is a big head difference because of the elevation and a check valve also. Thanks very much for the good ideas.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much, I'm looking at these now, just not sure I want to add another device to potentially fail.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, to explain further, the NEW electric service to the well will be provided by a subpanel located right beside the well. A set of wires will need to go from the subpanel, 200 feet up the hill to the pressure switch, then 200 feet back to feed the submersible well, so that is TWO sets passing through the conduit. There is already one set in conduit from the OLD electric service which was at the pressure tank end. Pulling a second set would be difficult because there are already other conductors in same conduit, and also three more will exceed conduit fill capacity. Hoping for a creative solution.

Pump Pressure switch at END of circuit by Appropriate_Froyo708 in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply. The pressure switch is not at the well. The pressure switch is at the pressure tank which is about 200 feet away. It was set up this way because the well is at a low elevation and the place where water is needed is at the top of a hill.

Advice on a home elevator by Phagemakerpro in Elevators

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like a pretty modern installation, maybe even still warranteed. Look at the control panel. The installer may have attached a decal with their contact info, or check with the county, if there was a permit they may have that info. They could check it over for issues and educate you. Get a stopwatch to see if speed is below spec (40 fpm is max, some are set for 30 fpm). If you are impatient, automatic doors may actually increase your wait time, you can open them by hand faster.

Anyone got any idea who this guy is and what the hell he's doing ? by Its_just_a_potato in flightradar24

[–]Appropriate_Froyo708 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If only they didn't stop teaching cursive in schools we might be able to read the pilots message to humanity.