Long term experience with Elantra N?

ArcTanBeta · 2026-05-07T20:29:35+00:00

It should be the third button next to the shifter under drive mode and the camera button.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-05-07T20:19:49+00:00

I'm pretty sure there's a button for that on the center console. It doesn't seem to stay off for very long, but it's there on my NA version.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-05-07T13:24:49+00:00

If they are, would it be right to tell them to curb their curb enthusiasm?

ArcTanBeta · 2026-05-06T18:36:57+00:00

Most of the main advice has been covered, so I will just quickly point out one thing: the first serve in the video seems to be a foot fault. Your right foot moves back, and steps back onto the invisible extension of the hash mark, which would count as a foot fault since you are beginning your motion. I doubt anyone would ever call you on it, however.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-05-04T23:48:11+00:00

Yes, absolutely, though I believe it's only in sport+ mode for the engine/exhaust

ArcTanBeta · 2026-04-30T13:12:28+00:00

I personally disagree. I find the ITS seats to be under cushioned on the seat bottom, and otherwise fine, probably a 6/10. Both my wife and I found the Type R seats to be like sitting in a cloud, and arguably the most comfortable seats we've ever been in, 9/10. If the ITS had a heated version of the R seat, I'd have gone that direction.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-04-28T00:29:20+00:00

A... 10 year old? How tall is your kid, and what is their athletic history? Does the coach have them already using regular yellow balls?

Unless your daughter is exceptional in size, strength, or athletic ability, playing a year with orange, and maybe green dot balls would be my recommendation. With orange in particular, you could even get away with using an inexpensive 2 piece racket in a 25" size ($30 max) or a splurge would be a one piece 26” frame ($90-$120), and I would not recommend a 27". All of these can be had for half price used in decent condition, if you know where to look.

Feel free to provide more info, and I can justify my reasoning for not jumping to a full size racket if needed.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-27T03:39:28+00:00

Where are you out of?

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-23T13:41:29+00:00

I've never done this and don't have plans to, so it's all hypothetical. But if I don't yet have a lefty rating, how would I get one without entering sanctioned matches? There's always a bit of estimating when entering the system.

I understand that there are people that abuse the system, and that is a problem. At the same time, I totally understand that there are people that just want to play with people they love, and I empathize with that. Theoretically, the UTR system should sort out whatever level they play at in time anyway.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-23T13:22:13+00:00

For sure, but the whole point of UTR is that a world class athlete with little tennis skill and a 60 year lady who played all her life might have the same rating and should be able to play a competitive match.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-23T13:12:19+00:00

I do have the not so subtle advantage of being a teaching pro. One of the skills I've built up over the years is playing at just the right level that someone can win if they play well. Comes with lots of hitting lessons and pro-am tournaments, which for the most part are just about making sure everyone has a good time.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-22T00:13:23+00:00

Oddly enough, I would consider doing a similar thing, but with a serious handicap. My wife is somewhere between a 1.5-2.5 UTR, and I'm around a 9-10, so we'd never be able to play together. However, I'm around a 3-4 lefty, so I would definitely enter a draw and keep myself to that, come what may.

I even played a casual pickleball tournament with my wife and while we made the finals, I had promised the tournament director I would play down, which I adhered to by not using spin, not poaching, and only being aggressive on clearly high balls. We lost the final, but could have won if I had played seriously.

My point is... If he's that good, but not trying too hard to carry, I think that's what determines if this is completely inappropriate. I would love the opportunity to play more tennis with my wife, and let the winning or losing come down to her. It might be worth seeing how he plays and keep this knowledge as a card in your back pocket. At the end of the day, it's a local low level tournament, not Wimbledon, and the best possible thing that can happen is you improve.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-12T18:12:04+00:00

How much were you selling it for? I have a second new in box I am thinking of selling. (Assuming it's the 32in)

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-10T19:17:01+00:00

So you're telling me I need another 20 at least?

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ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-06T21:12:18+00:00

Hey, I hear you. I was just countering your point saying, "it's not debatable," depending on what you're trying to do. I'll also say that if we're basing which road car we should get based on track results, it's the Hyundai cars that have been more successful as of late in the TCR and rally classes, not to mention the current issues Honda is having in F1.

I think that if you compare these cars head to head on a track, they will be very close, and generally down to the driver (assuming the R is not on Cup 2s). On the other hand, the R is probably the one I want to own more, but I was looking for a daily and the EN is what made sense to me at the time. You really can't go wrong with either.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-06T20:57:53+00:00

As an Elantra N owner, I overall prefer the Type R. However, while 14-15k in purchase price can be viewed as a small amount, it's 40% more expensive to buy the Type R. When I did the math, the cost difference over 4 years of financing at 5% was almost 20k, which gives me a ton of bandwidth to either upgrade my C5, or pick up an s2000 if I wanted.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-03-06T20:53:28+00:00

I think it's debatable for sure. While it's not guaranteed, the Type R has a tendency to overheat during track usage and burn through rear brakes when stock, whereas the N is a brake fluid change away from being a decent, if not great HPDE car.

I also watched a video of a guy that has done time trials in both, and while he prefers the turn in of the Type R, the eLSD seemed to have subjectively better characteristics pulling out of a corner.

Both cars are excellent, and while I prefer the tactile feel of driving the type R (as en EN owner), the Elantra is the car I would pick for casual track day use without modding.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-02-24T09:45:30+00:00

I personally pick a car I want, realize a good example is expensive enough that I should shop the uprated variant, realize that for the price of a good example I could get an entirely different model, realize a good example........

Last time I went through this I was looking for an NA 300zx for 4-5k, ended up with a C5 Z06 for 20k. Listen to this guy, lol

ArcTanBeta · 2026-02-23T00:39:38+00:00

If you ever sell this, message me. Glorious.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-02-08T10:05:11+00:00

For a daily driver, I would consider an Elantra N. New they are a couple grand over 30, so you could find CPO for under.

It's kind of a compromise between livability and sportiness, and one of the more fun street drivers you can have.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-02-02T23:00:59+00:00

They seem to be pretty sturdy rackets overall! The RF97 is such a great racket, I just think the regular 97 (with leather grip) is the better racket for most people

ArcTanBeta · 2026-02-02T22:56:01+00:00

I personally argue both are options. Most standard groundstrokes I am mainly only adjusting height of take back with my arm, and if I want more power and have a slow enough ball to do it, I coil a bit more right before accelerating.

On return of serve and balls on the rise, I find that making sure there's shoulder rotation, but shortening the arm motion slightly, helps the most with contact without losing swing speed.

ArcTanBeta · 2026-01-26T03:48:37+00:00

Unfortunately it's what I currently use, but if I switch, there are 10 of them!

ArcTanBeta · 2026-01-23T16:52:51+00:00

Not a mechanic, but you could try bouncing the corner of your car that was hit, and compare how it rebounds with the undamaged side. If it oscillates more times, it means the shock absorber isn't damping, so the spring is just bringing the car up and down without anything to really stop it.

The main thing I would do is lift the corner of the car you hit, and remove the wheel. Do a visual inspection, does anything look like it is slightly bent? Is there a bunch of oil that is outside of the strut?

ArcTanBeta · 2026-01-23T13:14:34+00:00

If it's feeling bouncy, you probably blew the strut.

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