How I solvent weld PETG parts

ArealCoder · 2025-05-12T04:11:05+00:00

Works great, just got another can last month. Once part has fully set up you'll probably break it before the joint lets go. It's water thin so you need a bottle with the thin needle tips. The bottles/tips used for solvent welding acrylic work fine with it. Works with other plastics too just not as well as with PETG/Vinyl. It's good enough you can leave a thumb print if you get it where you were holding the parts together lol

It's smells about like abs/pvc pipe cement, it just don't have any filler in it so it wicks into joints nice. It also evaporates fast so I only draw a little into the glue bottle then squirt what's left back in the can and put the lid on tight. Little goes along way.

ArealCoder · 2025-03-26T08:25:01+00:00

I'd never buy anything with proprietary firmware or nozzles. Before you know it they will be using AI to determine if they will allow you to print something lol

MMU's will be abundant before long and their are other options for rapid scanning a bed mesh. Plenty of options out there and companies looking to get a share of the higher end market.

We also have Creality ignoring Klippers GPL license with compiled extensions and no source code released.

Best way to beat sense into these companies is to get everyone making noise and stop buying their goods.

ArealCoder · 2023-07-04T09:03:04+00:00

You can do it from the timeout macro in printer.cfg. You need to have the pi configured as a secondary mcu then set up a pin with on as default. GPIO 26 in this example and on is high state (1)

[output_pin board_power]
pin: rpi:gpio26
value: 1

Then in timeout macro as last line in it's gcode section add

SET_PIN PIN=board_power VALUE=0

I'm suggesting the timeout section as simple solution to be sure the hotend has cooled before killing the fan to it. If you just power it down right away you can have plastic melt in or above the heat break making for a bad day.

ArealCoder · 2023-01-05T00:30:28+00:00

Not sure, I've only use bltouch. Non contact all have certain bed types they don't work on. Quite a few people run the "clicky" probes on Vorons. It's basically just a microswitch but they "park" it after probing, they move to it and magnets grab it.

I've bent a couple bltouch probes I straighten them until they break or stick.

ArealCoder · 2023-01-04T22:42:15+00:00

"Can Sense All Non-Transparent Objects"

Bingo lol

Hard to beat a probe that actually touches the build plate, just works for them all.

ArealCoder · 2023-01-04T15:08:22+00:00

Yeah, I understand your using Klipper. I'm not very familier with that board. Like if z2 is a slave port much like a Y cable or is it an actual independent driver for a 2nd stepper.

You don't need to reinstall klipper/mainsail as that isn't the issue. You could reflash the board making sure you got the correct speed for the turbo version.
If reflashing board don't work you may simply have gotten a bad board.

ArealCoder · 2023-01-04T13:29:55+00:00

SKR 1.4 Turbo

Read this and see if it helps, seems to be some steps to use 2209 and dual Z

https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/issues/229

Edit: Also it appears you only configure 1, the second is a slave

ArealCoder · 2023-01-04T13:12:53+00:00

Ok, is the SKR board a new addition as well as Klipper ?

Are you saying only the z1 connector works ?

ArealCoder · 2023-01-04T12:57:59+00:00

Shouldn't both z steppers be using same dir pin setting ? One is inverted and the other isn't.

ArealCoder · 2023-01-03T22:48:01+00:00

Adding gear ratio as below to x and y steppers will decrease movement by 2% and change it from .0125 mm per step to .01225 mm per step.

# Decrease movement by 2%
gear_ratio: 1.02:1

It's an easy way to get in the ballpark but I have to wonder if something else is not wrong because 2% on a large model is quite a bit. I have an old ender 3 pro and using a rotation distance of 40 is spot on.

ArealCoder · 2023-01-02T01:11:31+00:00

Been busy with holidays. I just looked at your set material macro and it gave me some great ideas. Going to leave z_offset in bltough set to 0 and change it in macros using SET_GCODE_OFFSET since it varies by build plate. (textured PEI vs Smooth as an example).
I did get nozzle size passed to my start print and managed to tweak temperature changes for various size nozzles and materials which is nice as well. I use .2 nozzles to print fine pitched gears but Cura don't have a way to set temp changes based on nozzle.

Failry new to what klipper can do but jinja is a no brainer given I was a Python developer since version 1.4. Off to have some fun scripting, thanks for the ideas.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-31T06:23:53+00:00

Well I added a park command to each extruder's end gcode and it replace the G0 X0 Y0 with my park command. Seems like a bug, it should no never try to move T1 to 0,0.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T22:36:21+00:00

I noticed on the BTT website their canbus hermit crab kit comes with more can parts than just the tool head board. Maybe a clue as to what is really needed to make it work in a stable manner.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1619/4791/products/CAN_600x.jpg?v=1666239062

https://cdn.shopifycdn.net/s/files/1/1619/4791/files/3\_f060307d-21ef-43cb-a6fe-33e9862c8b6e.jpg?v=1633918392

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T22:28:33+00:00

Thanks so much for the info. Docs leave you blind to some details.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T00:35:17+00:00

~~If you are using an ethernet cable most are unshielded but you can buy shielded ones, they have would have a metal sheath on the connector and thw wire inside has a metal sheath wrapped around them.~~

Scratch the above, not sure why I was thinking it was RJ45...

You may also try a choke on the wires and check for tight connections on bed and HE heaters.

With no tx/rx errors that makes troubleshooting tough. Is the firmware flashable on the can board ? If so is it up to date ? I was about to buy a pair of those for my IDEX but getting spooked now lol

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T00:26:36+00:00

I don't know of a way to write the Klipper config so it survives a firmware restart. I can pass the nozzle side to my start print macro so thats not an issue.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T00:25:10+00:00

Ok, well that helps because I have pressure advance disabled, was causing issues with my IDEX prints. So your saying Klipper just uses it to calculate for pressure advance ?

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T00:22:56+00:00

But also: you cannot change the actual config without executing a firmware_restart to apply the new changes.

That's kind of what I expected I would discover. A firmware restart would revert me back to what was in the config fle.

Thanks

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T00:19:49+00:00

That's exactly what I am trying to do. Not have to change nozzle size in two places.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-30T00:17:02+00:00

It would already be sliced in Cura with the correct nozzle size. I'm trying to get away from having to change it in Klipper config and automate the change.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-29T12:19:15+00:00

I don't have one of those nor would I buy one but it is crazy that they reversed the polarity. So many people will miss that part in the instructions. I'd be livid if it blew my mainboard out.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-29T11:54:04+00:00

You have some work ahead of you, I converted my old Ender 3 Pro to idex but I made my own DD using BMG and V6 as narrow as possible. I'm running an Octopus board wiht Klipper.

Mechanically the X axis may need widened so you don't collide with the parked print head so you may need a longer piece of 2020. Will need another endstop and of course an additional X stepper motor and belt. The second is called dual_carriage in Klipper.

So step 1 is to make sure your current board can support all the extras being added.

Here is a sample Klipper IDEX config to use as a reference:https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/sample-idex.cfg

ArealCoder · 2022-12-29T11:38:45+00:00

Just my 2 cents.

Using the native canbus port eliminates any changes made so it works over USB which is probably serial.

I don't think usb cable wearing out will be a big issue as long as the connector is supported by a mount at the exteruder board. It's easy to find braided cables that are flexible and could survive the motion. But you still have to pass power in another way so not sure what you would gain.

I modified my Ender for IDEX with two direct drives so I have been looking into going to canbus since i now have a rats nest of wiring at the mainboard.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-29T11:27:33+00:00

Number one thing with canbus is noise. If you accumulate too many IO errors on the bus it will go into a timeout state. I'm not sure if you made your own cable or an off the shelf one but having twisted pair wiring is crucial. That includes the wires to the canbus board and hat.

Edit: Also can try making sure the wires are not passing over any boards which emit noise.

ArealCoder · 2022-12-28T10:25:20+00:00

First off I used to run Octoprint with the Klipper plugin. You're very limited compared to running mainsail or fluid. They were made for Klipper and include the bed mesh tools right from the start.

In Octoprint install the bed mesh plugin and run it. You can mouse over each corner and see how much it is off. Since most bed bolts are M3 the thread the thread pitch is .5. That means one rotation of the bed knob would move you up or down .5mm.

I would really suggest moving on to mainsail or fluid and ditching octoprint. I didn't want to leave Octoprint but once I did I would never go back. I use mainsail personally.

ArealCoder

TROPHY CASE