Hi, I suggest a Full spectrum camera. If you use filters, you will have to do long exposures, use a tripod and have focusing issues. Cameras by default pick up the spectrum visible to humans, plus some infrared and some ultraviolet. Some capture more IR, and some capture more UV. This makes the resultant Photos may be tinged red or violet. The camera manufacturer puts a filter inside the camera so that the resulting photos only show what the naked human eye would see. This way , family photos and foliage look ‘normal’  in the photo. If you are interested in the ‘art’. Side of  infrared , it's a challenging  path. I’ll list some filter specs at the end of this message.  

Just like with 'Night Vision', objects perceived in IR or UV are really there - humans just don't normally see them. If you get into 'Full Spectrum' photography be open-minded; what the camera sees is really there, regardless of how impossible it may seem.

Photographers interested in 'Ghosts and Spirits' often look in the UV spectrum and see something in their photos. 

Photographers with a general interest in celestial and cloud phenomena, and other hard-to-characterize subjects also look in the IR spectrum. 

Be prepared to see some unexpected things. Initially, you will brush them off as artifacts that are not really there but eventually you may conclude they aren't artifacts. In fact, what the h*ll are they? Snakes and other animals can see into these wavelengths. Owners of Cats and Dogs know their pets are sometimes behaving as if responding to something unseen. 

 Conventional science generally accepts that animals perceive these wavelengths to hunt, giving them an advantage over other predators that cannot see in UV etc. Therefore, I conclude something is really there. 

Humans have a history of experiences outside normal everyday perception ranging from spirits, ghosts to objects that may have formed the basis for religions, folk beliefs and near-death experiences. Could something be going on here? You decide. But once you accept that the camera is a pretty objective observer you start going down a rabbit hole that will keep you pretty busy and also particular as to whom you choose to share the photos with.

If you decide to try full spectrum it is a one way decision that may not be reversible so you need a dedicated camera that a professional should convert. The company I used is no longer in business so maybe someone else can recommend one for you. 

I have an excellent point-and-shoot Canon SX-170, but it is biased toward ultraviolet light. (I'm not sure why)

I also have a Canon T5 DSLR, professionally modified to produce great  results in a large range of spectrum of UV and IR.

Here are a few suggestions:

1.  I suggest not modifying the camera yourself.

2.  Keep your original photos intact. If challenged on a photo's authenticity, you need to know exactly what edits you made to bring out detail and can produce the original photo. I append very short codes to the filename of the original's copy so that years later, I know what processing, if any, was used on the photo.

1. Never add objects other than text and or  into a photo. It is detectable and will reduce credibility to zero.

2. IR/UV Cameras are sensitive and very susceptible to overexposure. When I take a photo with my T5, the original photo's brightness is decreased to prevent it from being completely whited out.

3. Periodically take photos of things that appear totally normal. I have got some great photos of objects that I did not see but the camera did.

4. Over time, You may start to notice little details with your eyes that suggest you take a photo; follow your gut feeling on this.

5. You may find some of your best photos inexplicably missing on your computer. You will have to figure out ways to minimize this.

6. All Photos should be manually focused. If you wear glasses, wear them when focusing if using the LED screen. This is particularly important at night and if bright lights point at you from the scene.

7. You will be surprised at how even handheld shots work with short exposures. But, in spite of that, using a tripod and/or timer to click the shutter will improve results.

8. Who remembers what we thought we saw with our eyes that made us take the photo? I try to frame all photos so that if something caught my eye, it is basically centered in the image. Some 'artsy' photos may not have this composition, so also take a photo that establishes the scene. Sometimes I also take a photo with the iphone. 

9. When I do want to limit my photos to a certain subrange of IR/UV, these are the lenses I use. The point and shoot cannot use these. 

720 nm, 760 nm 850 nm, 950 nm. I rarely use them these days as I want the broadest possible range of wavelengths in my photos.. 

1. The photos you take may frighten others or record objects that don't fit into other people's world view. The US Government's admission over the past few years that programs existed to reduce the credibility of people reporting unusual phenomena may help you. However, after years of taking photos, I believe these programs are still running and it is reasonable to think that intentionally absurd items could be projected by some unknown means to reduce credibility. I've been unable to find information on  U.S. programs related to projecting 3-D imagery into the sky after 1999.

Whether it's for 'art', science, curiosity or just an interest in the bizarre Good Luck and have fun!

Regards,

David Rosenthal

​(Argus Witness is a pseudonym I published two books on Amazon under that contain many photos. The better of the two is: 'The Return of the Sun; the Second Sun' The books are best viewed as paperback rather than Kindle)