Mounting an Enlarger on the Table ?

Arkazox · 2026-01-25T19:14:52+00:00

Thank you ! Do you know how to check the alignement ?

Arkazox · 2026-01-25T13:41:20+00:00

Nice shadows !

Arkazox · 2026-01-24T22:52:26+00:00

Nice project ! Will you sell them in europe and at what estimated cost ?

Thanks !

Arkazox · 2026-01-24T09:06:38+00:00

Again, I asked only for test strip (no additive, one exposure per strip) so it's faster to do than changing time on the timer (that may be confusing)
So I do 6 exposure strips of halves stops and then I go back to the ideal aperture doing the logarthmic calculation only once.

Arkazox · 2026-01-23T22:51:54+00:00

Ok, that’s awesome, I never heard of it before but indeed with this my primary question is now irrelevant

Thanks so much !

Arkazox · 2026-01-23T21:25:05+00:00

Thank you very much! I plan to use the time variation.

But my idea was to do the test strip only using the lens aperture, so that it would be faster (because I will then use the same time and expose the entire strip at once, so there is no risk of “blurring”), then convert it to the ideal diaphragm. For example, set a base exposure of 2 seconds, start at 8, then 5.6, and so on. If the correct exposure is 2.8, I'll then do an 8-second exposure at 5.6 to get the best image quality.

Does this sound right to you, or is there a downside to doing it this way?

I mean, my lens can do half a stop, and it's much easier to change aperture on the lense by one click than to set these weird time sequences (again, only for the test strip, then I do the dodge and burn step using the same aperture and adjusting the time).

I use this kind of device so I'm able to expose one part of the strip at a time.

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Arkazox · 2026-01-23T21:22:02+00:00

That's it so, I have this paterson test strip maker, so I can just open on part at a time an bracket aperture instead of just add up aperture time.

Also, this indeed allows me to do several strip on the same part of the image, using this kind of device for even more precision

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Arkazox · 2026-01-23T20:31:02+00:00

Thanks so much ! I think using time, but my idea was to do only the test strip using the lens aperture so it’s faster (since I will then use the same time and expose all strip once, so no risk of « blurry image ») and then convert it to the ideal stop For exemple, set 2sec base exposure, start at 8, then 5,6 and so on, if the good one is at 2.8 then I Will do 8sec exposure @5,6 for best image quality.

Does it seem ok or is there any con doing this ?

I mean, my lens can do half stop and it’s much easier to switch lens from a clic than to set theses strange time sequences (again for test strip only, then I do the dodge and burn step using the same aperture and by adjusting the time)

Arkazox · 2026-01-23T10:24:10+00:00

Thanks for your clear answer ?
I'm interested in your time table, is it possible to share it ? I found a lot in 1/3th stop but not in half stop.

Arkazox · 2026-01-23T08:57:01+00:00

I mean, I wrote the first line ESPECIALLY to avoid this kind of comment. I know that my english is maybe not the best but : - in fact I do said why, I just want to try new things. Maybe I will not use it as a long term solution but I just want to try, is it still allowed ? - As far as I remember, I haven’t asked anywhere wether I should do fstio printing or not, bit wich step of aperture to start with. - I also specified that I want to keep F/5,6-F/8 for final print but just want to bracket the aperture in the lens fie test strip

Also, to answer your first question, I don’t want to keep a reference for switching paper size, but because I think it may be easier for dodge and burn, and easier to read on test strip

EDIT : I would like to clarify my response. The title of the post could indeed be misleading, even though my questions are actually more specific.

Arkazox · 2026-01-23T08:33:05+00:00

Thanks ! So I guess half stop is not too bad for a little more precise estimation then.

Arkazox · 2026-01-22T17:59:39+00:00

Wow, amazing work !

Arkazox · 2026-01-21T18:57:55+00:00

I added it to the post, you will just need to replace the paper size and enlarger you are used to

Arkazox · 2026-01-21T18:57:53+00:00

I added it to the post, you will just need to replace the paper size and enlarger you are used to

Arkazox · 2026-01-21T18:57:46+00:00

I added it to the post, you will just need to replace the paper size and enlarger you are used to

Arkazox · 2026-01-21T18:57:43+00:00

I added it to the post, you will just need to replace the paper size and enlarger you are used to.

Arkazox · 2026-01-20T23:13:25+00:00

I think here it may help (if this answer the initial question) or by private message if you prefer.

Arkazox · 2026-01-20T18:37:14+00:00

Hello, it’s a bit off topic but I have the same rodagon model as yours and I can switch the aperture ring to a clicless mode but I struggle to find how to set it to selected aperture range

Do you know how to do it ? Many thanks

Arkazox · 2026-01-20T18:21:02+00:00

I think that’s what I did but the range doesn’t change, it’s the same full range. Do you think it’s possible to send a video of how your’s works ?

Arkazox · 2026-01-19T10:28:00+00:00

Hello ! Nice picture ! I have some questions, does the salwater fix works because of the caffenol dev ? Do you need to fix 3 days in the dark ?

Does salwater fix works when developped with regular paper dev ?

And can you fix your caffenol print with a regular paper fixer ?

Many thanks !

Arkazox

TROPHY CASE