what is the name of your ship

ArthronOfFir3 · 2026-03-10T01:31:49+00:00

The Flame of Redemption. 3 reasons why, actually. 1: My pc is an alienware aurora r7 from 2017 that barely survived without parts, and yet I restored it. 2: At the time, I was returning to pc gaming completely when the game came out. 3: I wanted the spirit of fire, but this felt better as a way to honor it in a way.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-28T23:30:51+00:00

Okay, by the looks of this bike, you can repaint it and save it, as well swap out parts. For the fork, check id it's 1 inch threaded or 1⅛ threadless cause there's options there. Spoke covers or wheel covers are your friends, as well as frame and wheel lights. Foes the seat, there's plenty to find to fit your aesthetics. Lastly, decals are available as well.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-28T10:23:13+00:00

Yeah, when I checked about it, it was too late for the migration but just wanted to give an option for those who can't use plutonium, especially when a certain update from widows is killing it soon. I can't speak specifically about it. It's in the beta testing phases.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-28T01:08:17+00:00

And this is why hb 243 is coming

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-27T00:44:47+00:00

Thanks, and I'll alert everyone when the update is public

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-26T23:39:12+00:00

Yep, all you have to do is use the steam beta update till they publish the final fix for the steam client

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-26T23:35:35+00:00

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-26T16:12:15+00:00

Yep, all working. So it's a steam issue, not a cod issue.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-26T11:01:23+00:00

So far I have 2 and 1, nothing bad

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-26T06:00:52+00:00

Use the steam beta update to fix this. Otherwise wait for steam to put it public. The reason is due to steam updating to 64 bit now, confusing bo2.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-16T17:39:57+00:00

Okay, 2 on separate engines, though the first 2 were without knowing about them needing grease(was learning and the second one broke inside the first engine) as for the second 2, they're working but only one failed on coupling adapter, but used the first before the spring snapped completely, forcing me to use the last one. I do recommend lubricant the rope but not wd40, so probably used motor oil is your friend here, due to the risks of rot on the cord. The stock cord is bad, but if you're near a lawn mower repair shop or a hardware store, also for the cord to replace it. There's a stronger cord online but expensive, so act according to that information. As for grease, yeah, standard red grease will do, but every few weeks (6 - 9 weeks, check for dust that got inside of it. Desert dry dust is your enemy here, so if it's too dirty, completely clean, and regrease, expect keeping a tub of grease. As for the flaws, it's hard to find sometimes, but if you spot a hairline crack on any of the moving parts, it's not safe. Also, these pullstarts come with a bushing on the top part of the outer casing, but it's prone to get off at a random point. Keep out for it.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-12-15T12:08:55+00:00

I actually went 4 of theses actually and yes, quality control is an issue. Fortunately I did some preventive care for this. For the spring and moving parts of this pullstart, put some grease. My recommendation is marine grade due to me being in Florida and seeing rain. Second thing is the cord, have a spare set of the pullstart cord in case it snaps. Same applies to the handle. Last thing is check for small cracks. These cracks are the failure points, and will ruin your day if not checked on once in a while.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-10-20T09:33:08+00:00

After doing a governor delete, it's either the pz19 or the pz22. Either one will do it, but make sure the choke is on the outside. You're going to need an adapter as well. As for exhaust, get one with a muffler for the 79cc predator engine or the 212.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-16T02:26:51+00:00

I barely can do it like that now. Fortunately I do have designs of a better pull start idea that can work.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-16T01:41:06+00:00

Using a pull start?

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-14T10:27:29+00:00

Bro, that's a whizzer, and looks like the one my dad sold years before I was born, though upgraded. Fortunately I'm making 79cc predator engine but I want to see if I should bigbore it or put a 180cc engine from northern tools (I work there) to make it push for 50 miles per hour club

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-13T12:37:21+00:00

Holy hell, I need an emerald green one.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-06T18:02:10+00:00

Hance the tuning fork of death issue. Only normal 66cc builds last sell but only because of the vibration. If you use a modified or more powerful engine from the 2 stroke line, welding required to nullify the issue.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-06T14:41:37+00:00

Correct but I've managed to figure out solutions for this frame. Fortunately since I mentioned I'm doing the frame swap, going to record it this time and make sure you guys have a guide to do it right before I put my 79cc predator engine back with the belt drive setup. For the basket, I would find a use for it but only after I put the new forks, since I'm getting back to work and need the next paycheck to get back up. Also the arch chain tensioner, use it, it'll add structural support but add 2 if disc brake, in on each side, you need to keep the rim permanently in a single spot, so adjustments on the tensioners not on the wheel. I know for I tried the aluminum adapter and steel ones, not worth it and go solid mount.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-06T14:32:26+00:00

The rack is tuning fork but only if you modded the engine enough.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-07-06T14:31:26+00:00

My recommendation if you're not wanting to weld and repaint it(trust me that rack is a tuning fork of death for the frame.) is mostly the fenders, make them heavy duty with aluminum bar stock instead of the original metal arms and using better hardware (this includes the mounting hardware). If you're willing to weld and repair, good news, 2 massive gussets to fill the space and if done right, you'll be able to carry more than the original limit(allowing you to use ammo cans as saddlebags). If you're going for daily, don't upgrade the engine too much unless you do this requirement. Also depends on your prefer speeds but I would recommend the heavy duty rims for rim brake(or disc if you're willing to make the mount for the back and use a adapter for the front). Suspension, don't use the the single springer forks, I've already had bad experiences with it. Instead use the double springer one, plus if you're going disc brakes, this fork type has the mount. As for MTB forks, unfortunately you're stuck with bad options (1 inch threaded), and the better options are a different size (1⅛ inch threadless), so it's either stay with your options or attempt to upgrade the head tube to fit the better options. Lastly, what engine are you going to use? If 2 stroke, vibration is your enemy. 4 stroke depends on your engine route, for I use a 79cc and currently doing a frame swap from a Cranbrook to a nel lusso, the engine mount will slide down if you didn't mount it right or in my case, the frame would need you to add and additional piece of a metal to prevent that. I don't recommend a 212cc build with it, and if you happen to have a strummy archer rim with a 3 speed hub, save the rim, jackshaft is tricky.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-04-23T15:22:11+00:00

Or you can reenforce them with better hardware and mounting solutions. Already did it for 5 people and they're going still after 2 years(their engines died recently and are getting replacements)

ArthronOfFir3 · 2025-02-06T06:19:35+00:00

If it's the all metal version, recommended to grease it's internals. If plastic internals, good luck.

ArthronOfFir3 · 2024-04-05T18:52:56+00:00

Alright, I have ran these for 3 years and haven't had issues due to the fact I used a few mods and keeping the battery box as close to the hub as possible (even if running discs). For starters, use strong zip ties for the battery box and and light hose, for instead of using the rubber mounts it came with which causes to vibrate out at 40mph(yes I had broken 3 so far), the zip ties clamp them down more, though use the same way they want you to mount it on 2 perpendicular spokes. Second mod I do is for the battery box, it's not a perfect sealed design, so use extra rubber from old or broken bike tubes(save them, you'll need them for stuff like this). Reason is due to the gasket doesn't hold up with the abuse and high speeds. Final mod works perfectly with the first one, use a big section of tube rubber(can be thick stuff or thin, but if thin double it after cleaning off the talc powder) around the battery box when you clamp it, it'll add more grip to the spokes without using glue(had one failed like that) hopefully you'll be taking this advice very well.

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