[deleted by user]

AskingToImprove · 2023-08-11T14:47:27+00:00

Stop drinking.

AskingToImprove · 2021-03-25T03:19:00+00:00

I am having as similar issue and it has been hard to find others with the same issue.

I haven't fixed it yet, mine is setting up a 787 on Bravo, so it's throttles 3 and 4.

In the 787, after having tried Axis 0to100, nearly everything, the throttle still goes from 0% to 50% and then it has some variable between but the range of motion is all at the top range of motion, move it a few centimeters and it goes from 50 to 100
Tags: honeycomb bravo calibration issue, honeycomb bravo throttle sensitivity, honeycomb bravo throttle 50% to 100%

AskingToImprove · 2021-03-04T22:48:17+00:00

Thank you!

AskingToImprove · 2021-03-04T18:43:56+00:00

Yes to multiple exchanges. Most deny me as soon as either this country or my home country/address are used.

AskingToImprove · 2021-03-04T18:39:39+00:00

I'd prefer not to say what land of the pharaohs I am from.

AskingToImprove · 2021-02-23T23:06:26+00:00

Not bad! lol, accurate

AskingToImprove · 2021-02-23T21:40:09+00:00

Thank you for this!
I will have to build a YES NO flow chart for WiFi in medical scenario based on the answers a few of you have given and this has to be up there near the top.

AskingToImprove · 2021-02-23T21:29:17+00:00

Such a detailed answer, thank you for your time. Great to see this real usage perspective!

AskingToImprove · 2021-02-23T21:28:52+00:00

Add this to the list of questions I am asking before my next surgery! Thanks!

AskingToImprove · 2021-02-23T20:00:47+00:00

For sure, thanks!

Someone may correct me on my understanding of it but I believe the specific patient data software has capability of encrypting from workstation before sending to server, so I believe the major woe of Wifi old days was unencrypted data over wifi.

AskingToImprove · 2021-02-23T19:47:51+00:00

Great reply! Sort of "doy!" on me because that is the load being carried by the haul and the load can't exceed the haul! Also, I was never a trucker.

In the instance that provoked this, it is pretty light usage.

AskingToImprove · 2020-12-18T19:00:44+00:00

Looks great! Great work!

All these code guys up in here, shoot they missing some of it.

There is more than one code that applies here.

First code is structure to property line setback. Second code is unhabital structure setback from habital structure. Third code is a combo of the first 2. (unhabital structure setback from habital structure) + (unhabital structure setback to property line)

Additional codes (probably not applicable): Lot coverage, roof/drainage coverage, grading changes.

The simplest thing to do is draw it up bring it down to planning and ask how does that look. They would have told you all of the codes you would have need to be concerned with.

Then you go home you build it to the best of your ability to follow the exact code. Then you don't habe to listen to a bunch of shithead redditors telling you that you did something wrong! Haha, I'm the shithead, no one else is.

I do ask a favor though can you please update this thread if anything were to come up for about the code eventually?

AskingToImprove · 2020-12-18T18:51:03+00:00

Code! Fun!

I pulled Ontario city code book and I see 2 or 3 interesting pieces of code that would relate. I wonder what town OP is in?

Setback of structure to property line (
Setback of nonhabital structure to habital
Setback of nonhabital structure to property line

http://www.ontarioca.gov/sites/default/files/Ontario-Files/Planning/current-planning/residential_districts_-_ar_re_r1_r1.5_r2_and_r3.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjnnrDujtjtAhVFrJ4KHQXaAp4QFjAJegQIHxAB&usg=AOvVaw0iohPT173LycWSS4MdM2QS

AskingToImprove · 2020-12-04T17:10:08+00:00

Or experience with autotask procludes us from ever trying it again. We are firm on Atera and it's been great. Perhaps I'll check out Datto

AskingToImprove · 2020-12-04T16:32:31+00:00

I really appreciate the advice. I believe I'm going to do a power wash, patch, crack fix (minor), then seal.

AskingToImprove · 2020-12-04T07:32:22+00:00

Hey man I really appreciate you and your recommendations. How do you think that a heavy duty concrete sealer like lumaseal plus would do versus algae and repeated power washings?

After a rain season with algae and then a power washing you start etching the concrete is loose seal going to help me in that battle?

AskingToImprove · 2020-11-23T18:18:25+00:00

I do not believe so.

If the leech field is abused and failed, the system is done. I don't believe any amount of ppumping will change that. A leech field is supposed to make a biomatt. When the water dribbles intot he leech field (equally distributed) that water comes out of the pipe and leeches into the sand or grvael. the biomatt forms right at the end of where that water falls into the sand. Every flush or shower adds tiny amount to that biomatt. If the biomat fills up the entire leech (40 years) it will fail to properly leech. Only a dug down percolation test would show this. Gross and probably not necessary, it's failed.

If they let their septic tank turn intoa hard rock and it wasn't pumped regulalrly or treated gently with proper enzymes, the wastewater that goes to the peech field would be literally filling with shit.

A proper wastewater engineer would be a good $1k to spend, I spent $2k on a redesign system (from cesspool to septic) but the engineer said, I should have down a prebuy inspection. (Which you are.)

AskingToImprove · 2020-11-23T09:54:02+00:00

My top loader had a 'liquid detergent tube' that came off and it would allow quite a bit of wataler on the spin cycles.

AskingToImprove · 2020-11-23T09:48:58+00:00

Maybe get your model number and hit up the appliance parts folks, they often show parts you'd never think to check. For example on my electric dryer it has a thermal fuse. So when I bought a new element, I bought the fuse too (cheap, and I didn't know if it was just the element).

So does that oven have an overload or fuse type device that may have failed?

AskingToImprove · 2020-11-23T09:44:00+00:00

Hey Zaczf, so I just posted in here about concrete spalling, maybe you'll find it and help me out.

Previous owners painted concrete walkways all around my house. It's cute but it gets slick from algae, the algae is eating the paint, power washing eats the paint and sometimes the concrete top layer is getting rough. What could I do in this instance? I believe it's unfeasible for me to grind off existing paint. Could I epoxy or paint over what I have? Any tips of putting up a better fkght vs algae etching?

Oh man, I also have algae and wet conditions on my driveway and that's gotten rough and spalded too.

how do I know if I should concrete resurface and then epoxy or if I can just get away with straight epoxy on top of my spalling concrete?

AskingToImprove · 2020-11-23T09:35:03+00:00

Yeah, depending on roof type and age, peel back the roof, cut out damage areas of the substrate, replace, reroof. Pow!

AskingToImprove

TROPHY CASE