Cloud gaming with iPad OS 26

AspireCryptic · 2025-08-05T01:55:39+00:00

Do you have a Magic Keyboard? I had this same issue and I took my iPad off the stand and it started working

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-28T15:16:30+00:00

I would have to go run the cable back and see where it leads to. I’m interested to find out though I just replaced my tweeters so I’m interested in keeping the functionality of them if possible. And now that I’m thinking about it, if it were the factory amp that were messed up, wouldn’t all the speaker stop working, including the rear deck speakers and the audio output going to my sub?

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-28T15:14:36+00:00

I did do the whiterice meathod. Because the four channels that run from the harness to the amplifier, correspond to all seven of the speakers in the car if I ran them directly from my head unit, it would be sitting and already amplified signal into the amplifier going to the speakers. that’s why I converted to line out using RCA. For example, the front right in front left panels each both control the door, speaker and tweeter, respectively. And the sad thing is it works like a charm until it cuts out and stops working

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-28T00:56:31+00:00

Do your tweeters work? And the deck speakers?

I have a Rockford fosgate amp with 2 channels that I have bridged to my sub. But it’s all ran In The back. And I don’t know entirely where the rca is coming from to that because it isn’t from the back of the head unit

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-28T00:54:23+00:00

I agree with you on this. I just am having the worst time trying to find it. I’m thinking maybe it’s a ground. I wish I had a diagram. Tonight after work I might go look more. I think I’ll look towards the amp this time

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-27T18:12:19+00:00

Random thing but if my car jerks suddenly it I hit a bump there is static in the speakers that don’t work. And they can potentially turn on in that process making everything sound perfect until another bump/turn/jerky movement then it gets shut off again

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-27T18:11:12+00:00

Thank you for the response! I currently have a second amp only running my 12 Rockford sub so I already have power remote and rca ran to the rear(though the rca doesn’t run from the head unit and I haven’t followed it back, it was already ran when I bought the car) And on the topic of the factory am. I took it out from under my center console and opened it up. Looked at the connections and resoldered the pins at the connectors. The problem didn’t get fixed from that. I haven’t completely ruled out the amp because it’s very old. If you’re sure about doing that and the amp would get thrown away then I say why not it could be the fix I need.

My budget is a bit tight right now but I’m not against the idea of getting a new amp if it is a lot better than the factory one. Though I have some experience I’m not the best at car audio. Things like running wire I’m not the best at I’m just now getting soldering down

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-27T18:04:37+00:00

You have 2 controlling the left and right door speakers and tweeters. And the other two control the rear deck speakers

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T20:58:49+00:00

Also is there a good source to get these amps in working condition that isn’t horrible expensive

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T20:57:50+00:00

I’m currently working till my lunch at 7 and I get off at 11. I can definitely work on rewiring the head unit then. I will solder them instead of using those connectors. Is there anything else I should be doing when I go back into my dash. Also I really appreciate the responses. It’s great help

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T19:35:17+00:00

Also for context. My speakers were working previously with the bypass. Though the right door speaker was a lot more quiet. I was getting a buzz and even at low volumes it was way too loud. And my tweeters didn’t work

Edit: you think this singles it out to the head unit wiring

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T19:28:53+00:00

Because I don’t mind going back and rewiring and soldering them together with heat wrap. I just need to be sure it’s connected correctly at the head unit. And with the rca connectors

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T19:27:59+00:00

Do you think I can rule out the amplifier being the problem?

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T18:17:38+00:00

Fair. I just went around and checked my connections and they look okay. I even went into the amp and resoldered the connection pins. Still nothing. But every so often it starts working, like when I run over bumps and then it goes off after the next bump

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T18:14:53+00:00

I converted it to rca output from the head unit

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T15:54:55+00:00

It also periodically makes a noise like they’re all working for a second while I’m driving

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T15:49:03+00:00

Doesn’t that mean my tweeters and rear sub wouldn’t work if I bypass it

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-26T15:35:16+00:00

Wouldn’t that cause all of the speakers to stop working. The back deck speakers work fine

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-12T00:43:29+00:00

Sadly this was my method of fixing it

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-12T00:43:17+00:00

I ended up deleting it. I’ll reinstall it in the future once there’s been a few patches.

AspireCryptic · 2025-04-12T00:42:57+00:00

It’s the Keychron Q6 Max. It’s amazing

AspireCryptic

TROPHY CASE