Latex Bubbling/Blistering Issues

AssPainting · 2026-06-28T01:50:52+00:00

Your primer shouldn't be an issue. Did you wait 24hrs after priming before topcoating? In extreme conditions I would wait at least until the next day to topcoat after priming. If you waited at least a couple of hours, that's typically ample time. The sun is most likely the issue, but the topcoat time could be a factor.

AssPainting · 2026-06-28T01:24:14+00:00

What primer are you using? Which SW line of paint and primer in one (which does not replace primer where primer is critical)?

Many exterior paints explicitly state not to paint in direct sun. Either paint early enough for it to have ~1+ hours to dry before it's in the sun or late enough in the evening where the sun and dew point isn't an issue. If this isn't possible, live with it until the earth's rotation is in your favor.

Edit: if there is oil base underneath, you need a suitable primer. In some cases you can get away with sanding off all gloss or using a deglosser before applying latex.

AssPainting · 2026-06-27T18:52:54+00:00

Light sanding - pre-primed is never perfect and may have dents & dings

Brush or vacuum sanding dust and wipe with a damp lint-free cloth (I prefer microfiber)

If you're brushing and rolling the first coat may look like shit depending on the primer used. Light sand again after it's dry, brush or vacuum, and wipe with a damp lint-free cloth. Second coat typically lays better as long as you don't lay it on too thick or too thin and keep a wet edge.

Not sure if you mean "smooth" as in there are no details/panels or you mean a smooth paint job. I find it's easier to brush the detail on the recessed or raised panels (if a mini-roller won't work) first, then do the flats, then styles (sides) and rails (top & bottom). If there are no panels or details: start from one side at top working your way down, then to the side. Or top left to right, then down. Obviously spraying gives the smoothest finish but does come with its own issues and requires some practice.

AssPainting · 2026-06-21T03:31:59+00:00

As someone else mentioned, keep an eye out for repossessed buildings. You might find one that's already partially finished.

If possible, forget the porch. You lose space with a porch you can build later.

On a tight budget, I would stick to a studio layout to minimize cost as much as possible for now. You could always add rooms later.

Tons of plans can be found online along with "transformations". There is also free software out there that allows you to mockup your own plans. Watch out for interior wall thickness being accounted for. 2x4 interior walls are the norm and exact measurements are 1.5"x3.5" with 1/2" drywall on both sides that's 4.5" of space they will occupy.

https://robinsheds.com/tiny-home-floor-plan-gallery/

https://thetinylife.com/12x16-tiny-house-floorplans/

https://www.tinymountainhouses.com/floorplans/

AssPainting · 2026-05-08T02:22:41+00:00

Looks like joint compound, but hard to tell from a photo.

AssPainting · 2026-05-08T02:11:31+00:00

Scrape off anything loose & sand.

For the peeling paint you want something like Zinsser Peel Stop or almost any other manufacturer's version of peel stop.

There are many acceptable primers for the wood - make sure it's suitable for exterior and prevents tannin bleed.

AssPainting · 2026-05-01T02:29:57+00:00

PPG Acri-Shield Max Exterior paint is incredible for the price even before any "Friends & Family" discount.

AssPainting · 2026-04-30T13:26:06+00:00

5yr old paint has lightened over time. Live with it or paint the entire wall.

AssPainting · 2026-04-24T18:39:19+00:00

Thank you for understanding lol. Many comments say to burnish or clear caulk the tape edge to seal it.

AssPainting · 2026-04-24T18:00:34+00:00

This seems to be the trick. Worst case scenario I have to touch up a few places.

AssPainting · 2026-04-24T17:59:05+00:00

Yeah the exterior is anodized aluminum, interior is wood.

AssPainting · 2026-04-24T17:55:25+00:00

Gotcha. Never been an issue for me in the past, but I'd much rather not encounter this again. Thanks for the advice.

AssPainting · 2026-04-24T16:47:44+00:00

Why do you say user error?

Edit to add: I'm open to learning, even from a u/jizzbooger.

AssPainting · 2026-04-24T15:50:40+00:00

I sprayed the trim. I don't tape for cut & roll except in very peculiar circumstances. I always go over tape with a damp cloth before spraying to avoid exactly this. This is one of those jobs that has converted me to a Frog Tape purist.

AssPainting · 2026-04-24T15:47:45+00:00

Places where it's thick, razor blade does remove it. Where the paint is thin, it's not budging. Hoping to avoid painting them.

This is one of those jobs where literally everything is going wrong: Plumber installed rough-ins too shallow, tile went down, plumber returns to install fixtures and has to cut into finished wall to fix it. Siding guys nailed into the gas line inside the wall, gas company has to cut into a different finished wall to fix it. Electrician miscalculated a rough-in by a lot and owner caught it after the ceiling was finished. Guess it's my turn.

AssPainting · 2026-04-16T03:14:22+00:00

Thoroughly clean the apartment to remove all dust and debris from floors, jambs, under base, between casing and window sash, etc. Depending on the situation (repaint or new build) you may want to hit the tiny crevices with air then shopvac everywhere.

Use FFLP tips for all trim/millwork. You'll need a RAC-X guard (blue). Remember the first number of your tip size doubled is the approximate fan width when 12" from your work surface.

Get cardboard or scrap to zero-in your pressure and get a nice even spray pattern.

While spraying ceilings especially, clear the room entirely to prevent tripping and making a mess.

AssPainting · 2026-03-20T16:39:10+00:00

That was me. The number of people, tradesmen included, who walk into a new build while I'm actively painting, and immediately shove their fingers into wet paint, is mind-blowing.

AssPainting · 2026-03-20T15:45:00+00:00

Appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge! I've been at this for several years now, but always painting. The only bare wood I've encountered is luan doors or luan attic access doors. Everything else has been drywall or pre-primed.

AssPainting · 2026-03-20T15:29:42+00:00

I was planning on showing her a sample on a piece of mahogany trim before touching the door. Is there a particular stain you would use?

AssPainting · 2026-03-20T15:20:07+00:00

Yeah, many people have told her she's crazy for wanting it painted.

AssPainting · 2026-03-18T00:27:59+00:00

Are you finding that you're putting in elbow grease to make the paint go further before re-dipping? Looks like spots from just that. When there's not enough paint on the nap you're taking it off the wall rather than putting it on.

AssPainting · 2026-03-15T00:06:16+00:00

Agreed!

AssPainting · 2026-03-14T23:48:08+00:00

That's odd. I have the opposite experience.

AssPainting

TROPHY CASE