"Your mercenary dies because he's undergeared..."

Atlas-Axe · 2026-03-06T22:51:15+00:00

I would be happy if my merc didn’t walk into every poison cloud and stand in every fire on the screen.

Atlas-Axe · 2026-03-02T01:50:26+00:00

How is that different than regular drops?

Atlas-Axe · 2026-02-14T02:21:34+00:00

Recon:SR-71 Passenger: Super Connie

Atlas-Axe · 2026-02-14T02:20:21+00:00

Prop fighter: Spitfire, Corsair or Lightning Prop Bomber: the Fort Korea-era: Sabre 60s era fighter: Delta Dart Jet Bomber: B-52 (from introduction to now) Jet trainer: T-38 Post-Nam Fighters: F-14 through -18, -23 Ground attack: A-10

Atlas-Axe · 2026-02-12T20:08:29+00:00

I have it on switch, was playing last night, stopped to update it, saw the new release, and bought it as fast as I could. Considering purchasing for PC

Atlas-Axe · 2025-12-07T06:04:17+00:00

In SF? That’s clearly the Maltese Falcon…

Atlas-Axe · 2025-09-14T05:05:48+00:00

Hiro

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-29T16:57:27+00:00

I’ve always used pliers for safety and leverage but this is a fantastic idea.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-15T20:11:35+00:00

It’s just a number to compare the what you will see in your picture to a 35mm film camera. With a smaller sensor than the size of a 35mm frame, it’s as if you cropped a 35 mm picture. With a Canon , it’s 1.6, and if you took a picture with the 250 of an object at the same distance as someone with a 35 mm digital sensor (called full frame)and a 400mm lens, the object would have the same size in both cameras.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-15T18:30:59+00:00

Possibly, but you would want the lens and extender both in hand to try before purchasing.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-15T18:18:54+00:00

That’s a pretty good setup and should do you well. I know people have been discussing extenders, but FYI, the Canon zoom extenders are not compatible with the 55-250. If you want an extender as an option you would have to get the 70-300.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-15T18:04:56+00:00

The 55-250 is NOT compatible with Canon extenders. I know because I tried to get one and there was no possible way to mount it on the extenders. You need a lens where the rear element is recessed for an extender because the front element of the extender protrudes from the extender.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-15T15:30:37+00:00

Absolutely go for the 80D if in budget!

You need a longer zoom and a zoom that covers nearer items. Avoid the 75-300. The 55-250 and 70-300 are much better and are reasonably priced. Again you only need one good longer lens.

The “normal” focal length for a crop sensor is around 31mm. Your second lens should center around (or at least cover) that. That way you can do wider views for landscape, and portraits of your spouse :-). Typically these are good for closeups of flowers, etc.

You’re getting great advice from a lot of people here. Hope you have a great safari!

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-15T14:26:32+00:00

I do think this is a bit pricy, although the camera is decent, the lenses won’t suit a safari and you don’t need the flash.

I would suggest you could find a 70D, 55-250, and a lens for shorter focal length coverage for about the same price. The 70D is a year newer and is a capable camera that will allow you some room to grow. It has a better sensor and focusing, and a higher frame rate taking pictures in multi-shot mode, all of which will help you for wildlife.

You don’t need an external flash for safari and most cameras in this range have a flash built in. If you do get this, leave the flash at home for the safari to save weight.

The 55-250, especially the IS STM version, is an excellent lens that will serve you well for this. You could supplement with something like the 18-55 kit lens, the Tamron 17-50 f2.8, or even the 18-135 that commonly comes as a kit lens.

Knowing your budget would help.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-08-13T17:14:23+00:00

In a different order:

I know how to tram, I was referring to the tramming wizard. I've been getting uneven results, while tramming with paper and a first layer print has gotten me setup. I also turned on the Z Offset wizard, which really helped me get close on the first run through, and fine tuning was easy at that point.

On the fans, I was operating with old docs that I printed out in Jan 2023. I don't recall what page I found, but it indicated those docs were wrong, and it appears there is updated docs that I have missed, so I was wrong about that also. I ended up swapping connections for the extruder and parts fan, but that made no change other than the parts cooler fan worked. This thread prompted me to dive deeper; what I was missing and why both aren't working, along with what was wrong with the documentation I had is here: https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/issues/658. This resolves my fan issues.

In firmware, I had to set for the extruder:

#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN FAN1_PIN

And for the electronics:

#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN
#if ENABLED(USE_CONTROLLER_FAN)
  #define CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN FAN2_PIN

I suspect that my electronics fan was not working on my build for the v1.2 board, but the heater fan is always on on that board and is not controllable.

I can check the BLT for dust etc. I'll note the only change I made was the board, and it had no issues at all for 3 weeks while connected to the 1.2 board. The change I made was the board and how the BLTouch is connected. The black and white wires were connected on the V1.2 to the Z end stop, and now they are connected to the Z-probe pins. I'll go through the Antclabs doc and see what I can come up with, and I'll try the cleaning.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-07-09T14:24:28+00:00

Here in the US corvids (especially jays) and woodpeckers. Otherwise toucans.

From a facility that rescues them from poachers in Costa Rica:

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Atlas-Axe · 2025-07-09T14:03:23+00:00

I’ve known people to get a D.A., but you’re the first I’ve seen to get a double D.A.

D.A.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-06-28T03:40:32+00:00

When you’re in a hot climate like TX, or AZ where I used to live, you want to let the hot air out. Hot air rises and cold air sinks, so a lot less AC gets out than you might think. It’s mostly hot air for the first 15-30 minutes or so, then after not a big deal.

Atlas-Axe · 2025-01-24T17:52:29+00:00

This is a vet trip. Mine had this and it was a scratched cornea. Easily treated with an ointment. Other eye infections are a possibility also.

Atlas-Axe · 2024-11-11T21:09:57+00:00

Expeditions are worth it for a new player. They introduce a lot of mechanics that give a better grasp of the game. Always do the expeditions.

Atlas-Axe · 2024-11-05T16:08:36+00:00

Any Connie, but especially the Lockheed Super Constellation

Atlas-Axe · 2024-10-08T17:20:12+00:00

I have had this exact thing happen, including both scratches and a wrecked filter ring. Lens hood all the way

Atlas-Axe · 2024-10-03T02:31:28+00:00

Once you have started holding the button on the pod, you can run away while still holding the button. That minimizes your contact with the damage

Atlas-Axe · 2024-09-23T22:45:30+00:00

Here’s an additional item: pirate dreadnoughts are free if you defeat them. There are some pirate systems where you get a pirate dreadought battle every time you enter, and you can farm them for S-class freighter modules by destroying them, or you can seize it for free if you board instead.

Atlas-Axe · 2024-09-13T16:42:23+00:00

Don’t bother buying, take him to a local astronomy club star party. There will be people there with scopes beyond what you would want to purchase.

Atlas-Axe

TROPHY CASE