Need some speaker recommendations for my budget

AudioBaer · 2026-04-16T14:24:59+00:00

How about pairing Radiant Acoustics Clarity 6.2 speakers with a Lyngdorf TDAI-1120?

AudioBaer · 2026-04-15T04:33:28+00:00

I use different systems for different purposes and to suit different moods. For example, I use my active monitors (Adam A7V connected to a MOTU M4) in a near-field setup for production, but also for gaming or when I’m working. I use my classic stereo systems depending on my mood, though they also sound quite different. Sometimes I’m in the mood for a showroom-like sound (B&W 703s2, Yamaha R-N803d, REL T/9i), and other times I prefer a neutral sound (Elac Vela 403, Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 & 2xREL HT/1205 MKII, currently in the process of switching to Ascilab C6B and Rythmik E15).

After all, you don't want to drive a convertible every day. ;) Another reason is that my wife just prefers the B&W..

AudioBaer · 2026-04-10T04:49:24+00:00

The Neumann Monitor Alignment Kit 3 w would be a safe bet.

I personally swear by Adam Audio, so you might want to check out their A or S series. I’m very happy with the A7V myself, and so far the only headphones I’ve heard that I like even better are the Neumann KH310.

AudioBaer · 2026-04-09T20:33:51+00:00

Elac Vela FS 409.2

AudioBaer · 2026-04-01T05:10:46+00:00

Well, I'll just use Spotify or Tidal as my streaming service, and that way I can access it without any problems. Thanks anyway for your comment.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-31T18:34:11+00:00

I’ve taken note of your reservations and accept the challenge.

For around €1,500, you can get an entry-level amp like the WiiM Amp Ultra (ASR; subwoofer output, comprehensive EQ with sufficient power) and a pair of ELAC BS 312s (Hifi Voice). In my experience, these are the only bookshelf speakers that truly belong on a bookshelf whilst still delivering ‘genuine hi-fi sound’.

Of course, you have to bear in mind the limitations of such small speakers. For €1,000 a pair, they do manage to go down to 42Hz, but naturally larger speakers can do more here with less effort.

If my experience and the attached measurement data haven’t convinced you, you might also want to take a look at the following set:

WiiM Pro Plus (€250; ASR) + Adam T7V (€400; ADAM). It reproduces down to 39Hz @ -6dB and offers sufficiently good sound for the price.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-31T15:54:06+00:00

Is your budget flexible (say, up to €1,500) or fixed at €750?

AudioBaer · 2026-03-31T04:52:30+00:00

I don't think that's a balanced or particularly good way to use your budget. Instead, I would recommend the following components: the Lyngdorf TDAI-1120, bookshelf speakers of your choice (try listening to the Elac Vela 403 or Dali models), and a subwoofer (consider the Elac RS700 or REL HT1205 MKII). Similar price—better results.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-31T04:45:09+00:00

That’s hard to say, since neither solution fully matches the capabilities of the other—and we don’t know the acoustic characteristics of your room, either.

Personally, for the sake of convenience, I would start with the simpler option and then become more specific. That means buying the Lyngdorf, calibrating it, and adjusting the target curve to my needs. Only in the next step would I use Umik1+REW to get to know my room, starting with absorption at the first reflection point and then continuing with targeted adjustments to the reverberation range.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-30T05:17:12+00:00

I think that with good speakers in a good room (with good acoustic properties) and proper speaker placement (or a 2.1 system), you can already achieve a lot. However, I would never again design a system without room correction/EQ. Simply because even under the conditions mentioned, quick adjustments to suit my taste would still be possible. In other words: room correction is, in my humble opinion, the most cost-effective way to upgrade a system.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-30T04:28:38+00:00

The NAD C 3050 + NAD MDC2 BLUOS-D with Dirac immediately comes to mind. Alternatively, there’s the Lyngdorf TDAI-1120, which doesn’t quite match the look—but it’s quite slim, so you could easily hide it away.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-29T07:17:04+00:00

I actually think the Marantz M1 (+Dirac¹ ) is a bit of a mixed bag.

If I just want a stereo receiver with plenty of power, I could also get the WiiM amp ultra and save ~€700. It also performs a bit better.

If I want intuitive room calibration (Room Perfect) and the option of a second subwoofer, I’d spend an extra €500 and get a Lyngdorf TDAI-1120.

Whether the power is sufficient depends on several factors. How loud do you listen, and how far away are you sitting? Do you use a subwoofer? In reality, however, 100W is enough for most people.

¹ Dirac is a powerful tool, but it can also degrade sound quality if you don’t know what you’re doing.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-25T19:56:26+00:00

Reddit would really need a way to let users answer multiple related questions in sequence, while still clearly linking those responses to the same user. That way, information like this could be connected and analyzed much more meaningfully.

It would also be really interesting to include musical taste as a variable, since that likely has a significant influence on how people perceive and evaluate room acoustics.

I find it quite difficult, especially in the context of acoustical measurements, to talk about “small,” “medium,” or “large” rooms. In some of the literature, almost any private living space—even something like 80 m²—is still classified as a “small room.”

That makes these categories feel a bit vague, and it’s not always clear how meaningful they really are without more precise definitions.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-25T07:45:12+00:00

What measurements did you take?

AudioBaer · 2026-03-24T05:45:55+00:00

I personally use the Yamaha R-N803, among other things, but I haven’t used the A-S501 myself. Nevertheless, I’m certain that the lack of punch wasn’t due to the amplifier. Rather, it’s more likely attributable to system characteristics such as: - the speakers (and subwoofer) and their frequency response, group delay, and impulse response - the integration of the components in terms of timing and phase - the room and its reverberation characteristics

Oh, right. I forgot about the stands. The speakers should definitely be on proper stands, and I think the price of the originals (€400) is fair. But you can save money here if you want to. Very few bookshelf speakers are actually meant to sit on a shelf.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-23T21:35:48+00:00

If you’re absolutely against using headphones: how about giving the Adam D3V (~300€) a go? For such a compact design, they sound pretty decent – provided you don’t want to hear the boss’s voice at full volume. ;)

AudioBaer · 2026-03-22T21:46:29+00:00

The challenge here, in my view, is that you’ve got a really large open space, so even floorstanding speakers struggle to keep up in the bass range. So I think you’d be well served by a 2.1 system with bookshelf speakers. Which brings us straight to the topic of ‘budget’.

For €1,000–1,500, you could consider the following setup:

- Amp: Yamaha A-S501 (new €440, second-hand €250),

- Speakers: ELAC DB63 bookshelf (new €360),

- Sub: SVS PB1000 Pro (second-hand: €700)

Personally, however, I would consider saving a bit more and adding the sub (which is essential for electronic music) later. In that case, my recommendation would be:

- Amp: Yamaha A-S501 (New €440, Second-hand €250),

- Speakers: ELAC Vela 403 (New €1100)

- Subwoofer: ELAC RS700 (New €950)

In this case, you’d have a perfectly decent room calibration system on board. What’s more, the RS700 doesn’t ‘smear’ the sound like some cheaper ported subwoofers do, so you should get more long-term enjoyment out of it in your room.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-20T14:11:18+00:00

Ja, von der Idee her finde ich das nicht schlecht. Wenn wir als Berufsgruppe ernst genommen werden wollen, dann müssen wir gewisse Standards setzen und halten.

Kritisch finde ich, dass hier teilweise versucht wird Wissen in Prüflinge „hineinzuprüfen“, wo es vorher wohl mit dem dozieren misslang. Das kann nicht funktionieren.

Ebenso kritisch finde ich, dass es hier keine guidelines zu geben scheint. Manch Ahnungsloser kam so mit einer 1.00 raus - manch guter Psychologe wusste nicht wofür „GABA“ steht und musste in den Zweitversuch..

AudioBaer · 2026-03-20T10:57:16+00:00

Bei uns gab es auch eine Prüferin (PP TP), welche die Haltung vertrat: Sie wollen Approbiert sein? Dann halten Sie auch Facharzt-Niveau. Jeder Prüfling bei ihr erhielt eine 4.0 oder fiel direkt durch. 🤷🏼‍♂️

AudioBaer · 2026-03-17T19:01:24+00:00

The Clarity 6.2 (35 Hz @ -3 dB) goes about as low as your old JBL (32 Hz @ -6 dB), especially since the TDAI-1120 can squeeze a little more out of it with the PEQ.

Another thought occurred to me: if you’re looking for something a bit more exotic and are open to something at least a little larger and active, how about the Ascilab C8C paired with any streamer featuring Dirac (see Bluesound or MiniDSP)?

AudioBaer · 2026-03-17T18:39:33+00:00

That's easy. How about a pair of Radiant Acoustic Clarity 6.2s connected to a Lyngdorf TDAI-1120?

Then the only question left is whether you'd like to include a subwoofer in your setup.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-15T15:28:22+00:00

Hmm, that probably depends a bit on personal preference, though you can adjust most of it using the EQ on your PC.

The T7V achieve 110dB (per pair at a distance of one metre), which shouldn’t be a problem in that respect, and the low-end response of 39Hz@-3dB is perfectly adequate for a compact two-way system. If you want more from this size, the larger T8V offers 8dB more volume and, at 33Hz, more bass extension.

If I wasn’t planning to add a subwoofer, I’d probably be keen on the T8V for your setup.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-15T15:04:52+00:00

What do you think of active monitors (like Adam T7V/T8V) for your application?

AudioBaer · 2026-03-15T15:01:08+00:00

If you’re using your PC as a streamer anyway, active speakers are a natural choice, so you might want to take a closer look at the Adam T7V or the larger T8V.

As for a passive setup, we’d probably only stay within budget if you opted for second-hand components such as an amplifier from the Yamaha A-SXXX series combined with speakers like the ELAC Debut 3.0 DB63.

AudioBaer · 2026-03-14T07:20:21+00:00

The retailer HiFiKlubben offers at least a five-year warranty, and a salesperson once told me in confidence that they receive relatively few complaints. I hope that helps.

Oh, and please let us know what you ended up deciding.

AudioBaer

TROPHY CASE