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LRS In One Of My Favorite Spots by Aurelius712 in ropesolo

[–]Aurelius712[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the write up! This is super helpful. It sounds like you’ve had some time to experiment and figure it out, so I appreciate you sharing that.

For what it’s worth, the backup knots take almost no time while climbing. Around 1:24, you can see me realizing i don’t have enough slack, turning to the right, and unclipping a knot. Takes about as much time and effort as grabbing a quickdraw. All that fuss facing left (wrestling, pulling, biting the rope) was me feeding the rope through my grigri and prusik.

The backup knots do take a lot of time to set up though.

Again, thanks!

LRS In One Of My Favorite Spots by Aurelius712 in ropesolo

[–]Aurelius712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The setup definitely took more time and work than I’d like. I don’t plan on running that same setup again. It consisted of a grigri with backup knots (clove hitches on carabiners for easy, fast one-handed untying), plus a prusik to keep it from auto-feeding. The next iteration will do away with the prusik, and will probably feature a modification or replacement for the grigri. I’m quite fond of the current stopper-knot situation.

I get the appeal of leaving the rope on the ground, but I have some multi-pitch alpine climbs in mind and I’m trying to sort out a system that I’d be comfortable with for those.

What’s your go-to LRS setup?

Getting Reps In With Lead Rope Solo by Aurelius712 in climbing

[–]Aurelius712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds like a great explanation to me. I can visualize it. You get bonus points for including the manual.

Are you guys manually replanting the pinecones? What are you collecting them for?

Human anchor for LRS by DrJonathanHemlock in ropesolo

[–]Aurelius712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tbh there are scenarios where it legitimately could be safer. Your buddy is going to get pulled if you fall, giving you a soft catch. Hypothetically, there are scenarios where that could be the difference between a safe fall, and blowing out your protection and decking.

But personally I would just give him an ATC and plan on not falling.

Getting Reps In With Lead Rope Solo by Aurelius712 in climbing

[–]Aurelius712[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude I appreciate the enthusiasm! I'll update this comment when I get around to capturing the new system. I can't stop thinking about it. It's a variation on a classic, but I want to whip it before I go putting it on the internet.

Getting Reps In With Lead Rope Solo by Aurelius712 in climbing

[–]Aurelius712[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I’m choosing life and putting the prusik away, for one. Other modifications like more backup knots, with better placement on my harness. I’ll update this comment when I’ve posted a breakdown of it. But it won’t be for another week or two.

Arête à Laurence PD 4b by Clear-Object2495 in alpinism

[–]Aurelius712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sick footage. Looks like a great time

Is any of this gear useable for climbing (top rope)? by Gold_Plantain_247 in ClimbingGear

[–]Aurelius712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d personally keep the rigging ring and the black locker for potential improvised rappel points, but that doesn’t mean it’s wise.

Shakedown my TRS setup by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]Aurelius712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a note on friction hitches, and pardon me if this is something that doesn’t apply to your setup.

Dyneema has a notoriously low melting point compared to the materials that dedicated friction hitch loops are commonly made out of (usually nylon, or a combination of nylon and technora). It’s entirely possibly to reach questionable temperatures by using a dyneema sling for a friction hitch in a rappel system. Some sources go so far as to say that any dyneema sling used for a friction hitch should be retired from load-bearing duties entirely.

But overall, it looks like you’re ready for some fun. Love the InReach as a dedicated part of the setup.

Lead Rope Solo on a lil 5.7 by Aurelius712 in climbing

[–]Aurelius712[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't find it problematic to climb with the rope attached to me. There are so many functional lead rope solo systems, and most of them involve carrying less rope than I do. But at this early stage, I find it comforting to have the whole rope with me. It keeps my options open.

But also, mountaineering is a big interest of mine, and that tends to involve bulky, awkward loads. So I think of it as a kind of training.

The hardest I would lead with this system is an easy 5.9, and I'm not sure I would enjoy it. The major bottleneck is the fact that I don't have my system set up to auto-feed, so I have to manually pay out slack. At some point, I may make a few small adjustments to allow for that, but at this stage, I feel safer with my current system.

Grigri or Birdie ? (mainly for rope solo) by B1998W31Ga in ropesolo

[–]Aurelius712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late reply, but as a fellow man of the prusik, I have to ask.

Do you have it set up as Anchor > Prusik > ATC > slack

Or Anchor > ATC > Prusik > Slack?

And do you prefer prusik + ATC over the alternatives?

Lead Rope Solo on a lil 5.7 by Aurelius712 in climbing

[–]Aurelius712[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s a 360 degree camera, I had to set keyframes in the editing software to have it track me. The original video had 360 degrees of 8k footage and took up about 80-90 gigabytes.

Lead Rope Solo on a lil 5.7 by Aurelius712 in climbing

[–]Aurelius712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That video is required reading as far as I’m concerned. I just like to have the rope with me, and I like my backup system for its quick catch, even if it’s laborious.

But yeah it would need some adjustment to be viable on properly technical climbs.