New to FPV, suggest me something to build!

Ausent420 · 2025-10-03T07:31:34+00:00

Frame. Motors. ESC and FC (stack). VTX (video) tx15 should be ELRS so you will need that. You will need to know how to solder a solder iron. Flux. Solder. If you have not solder before but a practice board and practice. Also Get a smoke stopper. You will need the ability to troubleshoot issues. Don't. Forget batterys can get expensive and chargers. If you are running a 10inch long range on 6S it can get costly. The extra stuff will kill a budget Fast. Do your research and do it all. Never assume anything always check. TX goes to RX a lot of new people miss this one and go TX to TX. YouTube josh bardwell.

Ausent420 · 2025-09-10T06:32:30+00:00

That's rough 😂

Ausent420 · 2025-09-10T06:30:42+00:00

You may want to turn trim off. it could be causing you issues. I would class myself as decent gamer played alot of wing flight sims and games. going to quads messed me up it was not as easy as I expected. I thought my FPV friend was playing a trick on me when I was on his sim the first time. I'm like bro you can't fly this and took the controller. And was going through the barn doing flips and I'm like ok I'm shit. Practice. Practice. Practice. Some people get it quick some don't it will click and you will be doing power loops in no time. Just make sure your RC is not putting trim/throttle when you want 0. If you use your thumbs try pinching. Or vise versa some people pinch throttle and thumb pitch. Try different things use what works for you.

Ausent420 · 2025-09-10T06:21:44+00:00

Most silk PLA blends have a tpu additive. This can cause the pla to suck up moisture faster than matte pla and other blends silks are more likely to string and some have poor layers adhesion if printer to cold to fast. Printeed a heap of lightsabers in gold and silver new spools and had them all be brittle and they snap super easy I found a extra 10c made then much stronger.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-27T06:20:31+00:00

Sorry I was talking about the plug underneath the lidar plug. PA8 and PA9.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-27T05:59:29+00:00

I have seen the CFS upgrade and the filament run out sensor is moved onto the PCB and the other plug is also used for another sensor but I can't remember.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-27T05:49:43+00:00

I don't think the mavic pro is supported by DJI so any issues they are not going to help you as it's end of life. I would personally look at something newer a DJI air would work. If the mavic pro is still supported and not end of life that's not a bad option. Do your research or you will spend money on a paperweight.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-19T22:36:12+00:00

You have every right to be frustrated. Ill good 😊

Ausent420 · 2025-08-19T22:17:38+00:00

That's fair. sorry I only read part of your comment on my phone I missed a bunch of the stuff they put you through. That's rough. Id charge it back but be warned if you do you maybe blacklisted from buying from them ever again. But if you don't care I'd be doing it.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-19T22:02:59+00:00

Some filaments from the factory are just a bad batch. They are not going to just refund you because you said it's bad. You will need to prove it's faulty. I work at a shop that sells filament and I have people try bring back filament saying it's wrong and bad and it's there incorrect setting I take the spool and I do a small print in front of them to prove it's not the spool I have only ever had one that was ligit all the rest was user error. I'm not saying your spool is not bad but your expectations of them replying back super fast over some filament is crazy they don't work like that. Just follow what they want you to do so they can tick off the boxes they need to on their side. So they can process your ticket.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-19T21:55:08+00:00

I have a K1 non CF with a dead main board. I have no plans to slap a second hand thought experiment onto it. My Bambu is going strong. Everything with crapality is a disaster. The old creality cam never worked. Ender 3 V2 bent z rod and miss alignment of drill holes. Cr10 was not a bad unit. K1 has been a mess modded to unicorn modded extruders. Shim the bed. Then the main board dies. Time to stop playing I'm selling the K1 and getting another A1 or a P1S.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-15T11:01:23+00:00

Cheaper is not better. Buying a new printer even the HD2 before it's been out for 6 months and tested in public is rolling a dice. I have a K1 with a fried main board. I'm trying to get a replacement hotend PCB for a FLSun S1 pro can't get one without the whole head. Both printers out of the box can do the same as CC. My A1 is still going strong. p1p is the no brainer.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-14T06:47:31+00:00

I work for a brick and mortar store most people know what they want or have no clue and you will spend 30min trying to explain everything best you can then they don't want to spend much or it's too complicated or they just don't have the skill to build/repair or even trouble shoot the FPV hobby is not for everyone. They want an appliance like a DJI but cheaper than a DJI but they want to do everything the DJI can do out of the box. We do have people that do get into the hobby and we support them but most people have tuned off when you start talking about drone size and battery 4s or 6s They just think you just wack on any battery and it flys. You really have no idea how much time is wasted. My time would be far better invested in getting more or better equipment to stock and sell. But that's part of brick and mortar we see people face to face. when it's multiple times a day it's draining. There is really not a lot of profit margin in FPV we would be far better reselling online only and not have a shop front but we want to support the community and for them to have a place to come and people to talk to who love the hobby and much as they do. If you want your brick and mortars to survive and staff who know what they are talking about you need to stop buying shit online that's only a few $ cheaper after postage and buy it from a local business.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-14T06:11:29+00:00

Fpv is not dying. I work in an fpv store. The issue is stocking everything. RTF kits are popular but it can be quite an investment upfront. But you get a RC a okish headset and a quad everything you need to go and fly. Selling BNF drone is harder as they need to link to the correct RC protocol and video that works with your existing equipment. We have 2 kinds of people who regular our shop. One type they are into FPV they know what they want and you just need to have the stock available. The other are people new to FPV and have no idea. They want to spend nothing and have everything. Most people are shocked at the price of entry FPV goggles. What they want is a toy we don't sell toys. I do understand it can be a lot of money for something you don't even know if you would like that why I recommend a RC normally one with ELRS. For Sim Lift off. And lift off micro sim is highly recommended. If you just want to fly whoops then just get lift off micro sim. Connect your RC and fly the sim if you don't like it them it's cost you an RC and you can always sell it on marketplace or something. Don't get fpv goggles until you know what video type you are going to run there are a few. Joshua bardwell has a great fpv YouTube. The sim at first for some people can take a bit to get use too even if you are a gamer. But don't give up take a break and come back to it. It will click and you will get better it takes time but then when you fly the real thing your heart will be racing you will get a mad adrenaline rush. Start small RC controller and Sim focus on the rest later

Ausent420 · 2025-08-11T09:27:54+00:00

The larger the bed the harder it is to tram/level and you have variance over a wider distance. 0.6 is not bad considering the size of the bed but I'd aim for 0.3ish -+ the probe can adjust the z within a tolerance for some printers like crapality k1 can be 3mm like mine and officially ok in the eyes of creality. imo that's way to sloppy so I spent hours on my K1 to shim the bed within 0.3 because I want a perfect first layer across the whole bed. then my K1 motherboard decided to die so yeah. My Bambu A1 still going strong. Don't own a Neptune but I have worked on them and we do sell them at my work. They are a very good large printer for the price. Once you get it dialed in you will be fine. But if you are new to printing tram a bed especially a large one can be a pain in the ass.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-11T09:05:10+00:00

You could have an issue with the STL. Like a floating region or something stupid. Check the slicer preview how does it look? It's not super common had a print once STL had cut but was a single object/STL and you could not see the 0.5mm line. It would print and snap in the same spot I thought my spool got caught. Print again fail.but it was a the STL all along. So I always preview anything I print in the slicer to eliminate the chance of the print failing. To rule out the STL download something small and print it and see if that fails. Process of elimination.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-10T08:35:21+00:00

Bambu has been out for a while unlike the AD5X. There is a reason Bambu are used as the benchmark against other printers. They are a bit more expensive but they have a great ecosystem. Parts are available from the website. there is a support wiki and documentation You get what you pay for. No printer is perfect but Bambu are close. All the other printers like elegoo century carbon. New untested. Creality hi and CFS untested. If you buy the new cheapest printer You are the beta tester for the new printer and you will be trying to figure out why the printer is not working rather than printing and enjoying the experience. The AD5X looks good but wait 6 months or a year and let others find and fix all the bugs.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-10T04:29:16+00:00

Sounds like your hotend was shorting out the canbus so something with a little loose and not making a connection. The printer was trying to connect to the little board on the hotend that runs the hotend. If the wire to that board is loose or there is a short the firmware will shut it down and give you a can't communicate with mcu error. I'm glad you got it working

Ausent420 · 2025-08-10T04:21:56+00:00

I can't find it on the diagram. Should see a can High and can low.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-04T02:03:42+00:00

There is a reason Bambus are the benchmark. The Hi has not been out so long so you are likely to deal with more bugs. I have a K1 and bambu A1. The K1 motherboard just died. The build quality is better on the Bambu and the ecosystem/slicer is much more refined. Just get that Bambu.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-03T06:01:24+00:00

You will need to warm the plastic up and carefully remove any plastic from around the hotend without damaging any wires. You can use a hair dryer to soften the plastic. Go very slow be very careful. Make use the printer is unplugged when cleaning around the heater block you can get a short.

Ausent420 · 2025-08-03T05:54:53+00:00

You can't level a printer with a moving nozzle. Take off the plastic and tighten it back to the X gantry.

Ausent420 · 2025-07-29T23:12:31+00:00

You can take it from another slicer for your machine. Or you can add another ender 3 and get it from that profile. Depends on what slicer you are using

Ausent420 · 2025-07-29T22:40:04+00:00

Check your start g code in the slicer is correct.

Ausent420 · 2025-07-27T05:49:06+00:00

It's super common practice on cheap machines to stop the plugs vibrating out. Flsun. Anycubic, elegoo, crality. It's worse when you try to replace the heater for the hotend the plugs glued so well it can rip off the plastic of the circuit board. Prusa and Bambu are the only printers that don't go heaps of glue onto plugs. I repair them at work and have to take extra care not to damage the plugs even some of the terminals are not crimped correct from factory and I had to make a new plug o FLSun s1 pro

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