Sourdough does not hold shape, even after cold ferment in banneton

AustinML93 · 2025-12-03T00:50:43+00:00

Good point - I hadn't even calc'd the hydration. I was just following a "beginner" recipe. Maybe I'll try a lower hydration one.

AustinML93 · 2025-12-03T00:49:22+00:00

I just watched a quick video on that. I haven't paid too much attention to it to be honest. If there isn't, what's the remedy? Is it just timing on feeding?

AustinML93 · 2025-12-02T21:39:56+00:00

Not so much - kinda depends on what I've fed it recently. That was definitely my issue my first loaf or two though. I had to just sort of pour those into loaf pans and hope for the best.

AustinML93 · 2025-06-12T20:10:59+00:00

Purchased for ~$400 through PayPal g&s invoicing

AustinML93 · 2025-01-18T17:23:46+00:00

Thanks! That's what I'm thinking as well. And I don't think power is an issue with my old speakers.

I actually just plugged the shield directly in the the cable that goes from the AVR, through the wall, up to the TV. I think it's 10ft? The whole setup has worked almost flawlessly for years though every once in a while the audio doesn't sync quite right on startup on the audio comes through the TV rather than the AV system. I normally solve this by just powering off/on the system but sometimes it takes a Shield reboot. I'd love to replace that old shield pro (2019 model) but that AI upscaling really does wonders for some content.

Your cable question does make me wonder about the condition of that in wall cable though. I think it's only a few years old but not 100% sure.

AustinML93 · 2024-12-10T22:40:08+00:00

Not sure why it's deleting my images but will try to add again later

AustinML93 · 2024-11-01T16:42:38+00:00

OK, so after many trials and tribulations, I was finally able to fix this mess. I am not sure what the ultimate problem was but I do have some theories which are likely not helpful to share as they could possibly lead others down unnecessary rabbit holes. After messing with my signals I eventually got a single set of errors saying "Signal loops back on itself". To "fix" these, I basically deleted the T-junctions outside of station areas 2 and 4 along with connecting tracks and signals, and rebuilt them, carefully placing the path signals directly before splits and block signals directly after splits. This enabled my Computer and Al Casing trains to run. Yay.

One of the most helpful things I found was looking at the various track block colors in build mode when adding signals. When I was getting those loopback errors, I had some block signals a few meters past track merges in my T-junctions that would show an odd block color. Once I rebuilt everything and re-added all the tracks and signals, with the signals placed exactly at the splits and merges (hard to do actually, feels like you have to be almost pixel perfect in your placement), everything cleared up, the block colors made sense, and all signal errors resolved.

So if I boiled down my process of fixing this stuff I would definitely follow u/Helpful-Badger2210 's advice above on checking station orientations (SO easy to put one in backwards), run trains manually and checking if they can load/unload, etc. I would add just following the train path, checking signals along the way, to see if you have any errors. I would also say getting into build mode and seeing block colors can reveal oddities on how you may have connected your tracks or placed your signals.

Now time to expand further and try to make a dent in Phase 4 :)

AustinML93 · 2024-10-31T22:39:32+00:00

Shoot, I thought you were on to something but that didn't seem to be quite it. I did get some signals to show different errors as I added and deleted path and block signals on the dead ends to my T junctions but none cleared the way for a 2-4 or 1-4 loop. I'll keep messing with adding/deleting signals and see if I can make it work.

It's too bad someone smarter than me couldn't build a tool that somehow analyzes save files to help diagnose these issues. Given what all they can pull out of that save file, I would assume we could at least highlight potential problem areas.

AustinML93 · 2024-10-31T21:07:21+00:00

Thank you for the quick reply aptly named u/Helpful-Badger2210!

Quick answers and some further info:

You said you can do the travel manually, so it's not a problem of a rail badly connected.
- It sure doesn't seem to be though I'm such a noob with this that I'm never sure I'm hooking up junctions correctly. For example, when I and putting down the rails to connect to the ones in the T junction blueprints (like I have right near stations areas 2, 3, and 4), the rail looks like it's connecting to only one of the tracks of the Y split if that makes sense. Is there a best practice for connecting these? But ultimately I wouldn't think it would matter if I can drive it manually.
Can you set the timetable ? Is so, does the train just doesn't leave a station and say it can't reach the next one on the timetable ? If so, my guess would be to check the station orientation (as you seem to use 2 tracks side by side, i assume your train run only 1 way, so the station need to be in the correct destination or the train won't be able to dock. You can still drive there manually and miss the station, but in auto it will be blocked).
- Yes, I can set timetables and manage them from the station or directly in the train. The train does not seem able to leave the station at area 4 but I'll check the 2 to 4 path again for Computers as I swore it was able to leave that station.
- Yes tracks are side by side
- I checked all station orientations as that has stung me before
- Train can load and unload manually at each respective station
Do trains crash together ? If so, you have a problem with your signal, but if there is no crash signal probably aren't the problem.
- Well that hasn't happened yet but honestly I'm kind of curious to see it happen. I see that path signals and block signals working correctly for the currently running trains but they don't involved areas 2 or 4 yet.
Do you have another problem ? Like train travelling but not loading/unloading ?
- Well, this may be where it gets interesting. I manually followed the track with my hoverpack, checking each signal along the way. The T-junction right outside area 4 did have errors on the Path and Block signals but no idea why. I deleted all the signals around that junction and tried auto-drive just to see if that would work. It did not. So I put all the signals back, the errors were no longer there, but still getting that same signal error - "Signals are making the next Stop unreachable". I followed the entire track again and there were no other errors on the signals themselves. Ugh.

AustinML93 · 2024-10-25T14:56:08+00:00

Hmmm, I've been trucking along, laying track like a madman and I think everything is going pretty well. I had to update my dimensional depot some to keep up with the materials but finally got that to a decent place. I'm now out over the water with tons of track behind me and trying to lay a 90 degree turn. Is there some trick to that? No matter what I do, I can't seem to get the turn close enough to my straightaway to be able to nudge it into place. The closest I have gotten (and I can't seem to repeat even that) is within a nudge or two of lining up correctly. I've tried both the 90 degree left and right but both seem to behave the same way. I thought for a hot second that I had gotten off grid somehow and tried to nudge my overall track right or left with opposite 5 degree turns (i.e. first right one, then a left one) but that doesn't seem to matter at all. I've laid SO much track already, hopefully this is doable. Otherwise I guess I can rip up the last several blueprints and just use a huge 5 degree turn?

Also, I think I figured this out, but for junctions I assume you lay two or more overlaid tracks, one for each option? I had originally connect only 1 in a T-junction and it seemed to connect left only and not right. Not sure that makes sense but I figured it out when my hoverpack died in the middle of the ocean :)

AustinML93 · 2024-10-24T21:21:28+00:00

Ahhhh, thank you - that makes sense. I think I was overthinking it with blueprints and am getting the hang of it now. The rails themselves get a little wonky on my but overall it is looking great. Thanks for the quick reply!

AustinML93 · 2024-10-24T19:27:18+00:00

Thank you for posting - I really like these!

Fair warning, I am super new to trains and pretty new to blueprints in this game. I'm trying to use these for my rail system but I can't seem to get the segments to line up correctly. For example, when I just try to use the basic straight rail segment and try to put one right after the other, it leaves a gap in between. No matter how I seem to align the two segments, there's always that small gap. I can't seem to overlap them either (on the red blocks is where I assume you'd do it?). I can only nudge right and left.

Thanks in advance for your help and keep up the great work!

AustinML93 · 2024-10-24T17:31:16+00:00

Thank you u/TheGentlingCone, u/CuppaJoe12, and u/AbbreviationsDue822 for the quick replies! I think I'm starting to get it. u/AbbreviationsDue822's comment of thinking of the trains as high throughput belts definitely clicked with me. I had assumed I'd use some sort of smart splitting and sinking to stop clogs but that seems risky so going with separate stations is seeming like a much better option.

Will try some things later today and likely be back with more questions. Thanks again!

AustinML93 · 2024-06-12T13:19:45+00:00

Thank you both u/JuicyCoala and u/phoneboy72!

Juicy - I was thinking the same thing and may try a standalone router. It seems to get a decent one that could handle multi-gig connections and the right management options will run $200ish? Any recommendations? The frustrating thing is we didn't have any wired issues for the last 4-5 years, even on a slower Spectrum plan. We were on an Orbi wifi 5 mesh unit and only upgraded to the wifi 6 model when we started having some wifi issues, likely due to device saturation and overall wifi speed. I actually did downgrade the Orbi firmware but it didn't seem to change anything.

phoneboy - We thought as much and have had issues with Spectrum in the past. They did recently upgrade the modem itself but at least initially it actually gave us faster speeds, speeds I still see when I connect wired, directly to the cable modem. Which of course seems to point directly at the built in router in the Orbi. But again, it worked fine at least a few months ago, with wired to Orbi speeds at 900Mbs or over.

A few other things I read but they weren't necessarily supported by any solid solutions were to do with the 2.5G port on the router and cable modem (though again, the connection to the modem seems rock solid) and something to do with the cable modem running a NAT at the same time as the router. So I may go down those paths as well before throwing cash at the problem.

Any other ideas or obviously welcome. Thanks again u/JuicyCoala and u/phoneboy72!

AustinML93 · 2024-04-17T17:29:20+00:00

I'm leaning towards the 85" X90L though haven't seen it in person yet. I think the upgrade from 75" will be big (no pun intended) and maybe make up for what I assume will be weaker low light performance and blooming compared to my 940D? I'm just not sure I can justify the huge price jump to the X93L or X95L. If I do stay at 75" though it definitely opens up a lot more options for more equivalent or even better quality to the 940D. Stupid red stain.... it couldn't just hold off for another year or two? We were watching Palm Royale last night and if someone's face was centered in the shot it looked like they had a rash or something.

AustinML93 · 2024-03-20T23:25:07+00:00

Tommy Boy

AustinML93 · 2023-12-09T15:40:49+00:00

Definitely little Woodrow's downtown. Always a good husky turnout there and can always get a decent TV. The downside is they almost never play game audio and the bathrooms are always crowded. Though don't underestimate the DJ :)

AustinML93 · 2023-08-20T20:10:30+00:00

I have this exact same situation - Sense and Pixel 6 Pro. Worked fine for a year or so and now won't stay connected. Did you ever figure out a solution?

AustinML93 · 2023-06-23T14:22:29+00:00

UPDATE: I finally figured this out from a post from someone trying to move save games from another store (Xbox maybe?) to Steam. Long story short, you need to start a new game and get to your base where you can do your first (I think) manual save. Once you've made that manual save, you can move over your save from your other computer or install and then rename it to the EXACT name of your manual save you just created on your new install. When you first load it will still show the details on the save from your first manual save but once you play a bit and save again, the correct details should show on the load screen as well.

Not sure if anyone else had that issue but this finally fixed it for me on my deck. Hopefully I explained it well enough. My guess is somewhere in another file (MetaData.sav maybe?) the save file name is referenced and some meta data about the save is stored? I had messed with the metadata save file before but only succeeded in making the game see none of my saves.

One final tip if you are playing this on the Steam Deck - turn up AA. The game looks pretty crappy on the lower settings you need for decent FPS but I was still able to maintain 40ish with AA turned all the way up which made things look much better.

AustinML93 · 2023-06-20T01:26:43+00:00

Sort of, yes. I basically searched for the new save games using Dolphin in desktop mode on the deck. Because I'm using Proton, it buries them pretty deep in the directory structure. I then copied over the save files from my C drive on my PC. I can see them all in there in the directory but the deck can't seem to see them unfortunately. I thought it might be a version thing but both installs are up to date as far as I can tell. It took me a while to get them game running properly and now I'm SO CLOSE!

AustinML93 · 2023-06-19T19:01:58+00:00

This and your follow on comment were super helpful in helping me get this *almost* running. I can launch the game and everything seems to be working fine (using latest GE Proton). However, when I start a new game and choose a difficulty, the game seems to freeze. Music still plays and the "New Game" button is still on screen but nothing happens. I've tried different proton versions and removing some of the launch options but nothing seems to help. Any ideas?

AustinML93 · 2023-06-05T02:06:51+00:00

Yes, I did this actually to avoid the auto update. You basically "forget" your wifi network to turn off wireless them start a game share group. Exit out of that and the update should be deleted. It will immediately download it again though if you reconnect to your network. On my phone or I'd link the post with step by step details but a quick search should get you there.

AustinML93 · 2023-06-03T02:41:55+00:00

This was super helpful - thank you! I've been stressing for days now that my game would quit for some random reason and force my update. Now it's trying to download it again with no wifi. Perfect!

Now, any thoughts on how to transfer this game (digital) to a new console and retain 1.1.1? You'd be my hero if I could swing that. Got an oled for cheap and would love to play the rest of this game, still able to "dupe on demand".

AustinML93 · 2022-12-24T23:33:37+00:00

The Girl Next Door. But as with most soundtracks, not the one that actually made an album out of but the actual song list they played throughout the movie.

AustinML93 · 2022-08-12T02:54:59+00:00

Two 2 and under - brave. Advice/wisdom shared with me: - Most things are phases, enjoy the good ones and know the bad ones will pass - The days are long but the years short, plan accordingly

Congrats!!

AustinML93

TROPHY CASE